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From the beginning, the land the Cahuilla called Se-Khi (“boiling water”), the place Spanish explorers dubbed the ridiculously wordy La Palma de la Mano de Dios (“the palm of God’s hand”), and the city now (succinctly) known as Palm Springs, should probably have been named what it is: Paradise.

In the early 1900s, Palm Springs was the spot to cure lung ailments, and evolved into a place where scads of tennis-happy movie stars and U.S. presidents with a penchant for golf and impeccable hospitality came to live their best lives away from the cameras. 

More recently it’s evolved into a foodie paradise with 18-carat jazz, award winning cabaret, and fantastic theatre. (I know, Americans spell it “theater,” but generally stage companies use the British spelling because … drama.) All the musicians and actors tired of the rat race live and thrive in 350 days of sunshine per year, with a gorgeous mountain backdrop (including the second highest peak in California) and a million stars dazzling the night sky. So, if you’re a bit earthy/crunchy, and crave a relationship with the Earth, Palm Springs is your mecca. 

We can’t float your boat (our water’s mostly underground), but we can sizzle your bacon (in the summer, with just the sun) in our soul-satisfying, untouched wilderness.

Hiking in Palm Springs

Palm trees and rocks against a blue sky in Indian Canyons in Palm Springs, California

A hike in Indian Canyons is always a good idea. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Indian Canyons — Located at the end of South Palm Canyon, this is the ancestral home of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians. Out here, with the exception of the Trading Post at the “end” (and a few hiker amenities), it’s just you and nature. One blog purports that you may “run into some old rock art, house-pits, irrigation ditches, dams, trails or food preparation areas while hiking in the canyons,” and now I have to go back and find them all, damnit.

There are three canyons to hike here (weirdly I thought there were more) and just like the rooms in your house, they’re all a bit different.

Murray Canyon This is the only trail I have personally hiked in Indian Canyons. It’s a lot of flat land with nothing going on until you hit the copse of palm trees in the distance, and then I think a chorus of angels sang as we stepped beneath the trees and into another world. Suddenly it was all flora and wildlife, and I swear someone turned on an air conditioner. We crossed a couple of streams, one a bit bigger than expected, and we both chose a different path across. I was on the other side when I heard my friend shriek “RATTLER!” I did not see it (just the snake sunbathing at the entrance where we parked. I don’t know if he’s there every day, though. You know how snakes are.) We never made it to the small waterfall at the end. Someone, who was incredibly out of shape, got tired. Might have been me. 

Andreas Canyon — At 1.2 miles, it is the shortest of the three hikes, and I wish I’d known that. From their website: “A scenic foot trail leads through the canyon passing groves of stately skirted palms, unusual rock formations, and the perennial Andreas Creek. One can still see bedrock mortars and metates used centuries ago for preparing food. This tranquil setting is excellent for photography, bird-watching, or a picnic at one of the tables along the trail.”

Palm Canyon — At 15 miles, it’s the Mack Daddy of the trio. At the top is that Trading Post I mentioned earlier and just beyond the lip is one of the most breathtaking views you’ll see in your lifetime. In fact, here’s this tidbit from their website: “Palm Canyon is one of the areas of great beauty in Western North America. A moderately graded foot path winds down into the canyon for picnicking near the stream, meditation, exploring, hiking, or horseback riding.”

While it falls under the Indian Canyons banner, the Tahquitz Trail is just west of downtown, and was the stand-in for Shangri-La in the 1937 film Lost Horizon. It’s that stunning. This is not a difficult hike (I did it with ease), and you are rewarded at the end with a beautiful waterfall gushing into a pool of water. And yes, you can hop on in.

All of the above: $12 for adults, $7 for seniors and students, $6 for children. Military get in for free (thank you for your service!). Equestrian fees are $11 (where riding is allowed).

Horseback riding around town

Two people ride horses through the Palm Springs desert landscape

Just horsin’ around in Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

For centuries, this was the only way to get around in Palm Springs — everybody was on a horse. Palm Springs is a great place to experience what it was like in the Old West, and Smoketree Stables will get you as close to that feeling without the hardship. I love horseback riding, but throughout the years haven’t been particularly successful at it. I had one horse that decided I needed to experience a run at full gallop my first time riding. Yet, I persisted. Several horses have tried to knock me off with low hanging branches, and one time the saddle was improperly buckled, and the saddle and I ended up perpendicular to the horse’s belly. Cats and dogs, on the other hand, love me as long as I don’t try to ride them. 

This link has everything you need to know for a much better experience than the ones I’ve had. They’ll hook you up so you can ride through Murray Canyon on a personal or group ride.

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway gondola moving up Mt. San Jacinto

Temperatures are much cooler at the top of the tramway. Courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Most of us go for the gondola ride to the top, and have a nice lunch then gaze at the city below before we get in line for the ride back down. However, if you are an action figure, Mt. San Jacinto State Park is the place for you. Luckily, you are already in it. From their website: “Mt. San Jacinto State Park offers over 50 miles of hiking trails located within a 14,000-acre pristine wilderness, one of the last in California. All trails are accessed by exiting the Mountain Station and descending a concrete pathway to Long Valley. There you will find picnic tables, the ranger station, flush toilets, and several easy trails.”

This is the link that will lead you to the trails and a map. And the outdoor fun is not just limited to hiking. During the winter you can snowshoe and cross-country ski, and if you’re a crazy person you can camp. This stuff requires a wilderness permit, but it’s free.

For those who are certifiably insane, you can hike the tram station to Idyllwild. That link is to a great little website that tells you everything you need to know about any particular trail, plus hiker experiences, current temps, and difficulty. Tram to Idyllwild is a tough hike that is 9.6 miles and takes roughly six hours point to point. 

Stargazing in the desert

Palm Springs is shy on street lamps, which keeps the light pollution at bay. Many of our preferred hotels are tucked away in even less lit neighborhoods so you can hang by the pool in a chaise lounge and oooh and ahhh with a cocktail in your hand. But for those who are looking to get up close and personal with the cosmos, book with Sky Watcher. A knowledgable guide with telescopes and special glasses (not filled with alcohol) will take you on a tour of our planetary neighbors. 

Where to stay

Villa Royale Hotel exterior sign with a hedge and palm trees behind it

Welcome to the Villa Royale. Photo courtesy of Villa Royale

Any of our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels will be a great experience, but for this particular type of outing, I have a few specific suggestions.

For that “by the pool under the night sky with a cocktail” experience, Villa Royale is a good choice. On the southeast end of Palm Springs, it’s far enough away from Palm Canyon that the few street lamps we do have won’t hinder your experience. 

For a completely earthy-crunchy immersion, try the exotic Korakia. Dressed up as a pensione somewhere in the Middle East, they’ve got yogurt and yoga and they’re very big on tea.

Deeper pockets will take you to The Willows Historic Palm Springs Inn. It sits higher up than most of the other inns (stargazing at a premium) and has a wonderful garden where Albert Einstein himself used to sunbathe nude. If you see dead people, that would be a great sighting. 

Here’s a link for you to sort it out yourself because I have to go. I’m craving granola.

Although the mountain backdrop is brushed in hues of brown, the rest of the Coachella Valley is pretty darned green. Canna-Tourism was smokin’ hot (#sorrynotsorry) until, you know, the pandemic. Sure, dispensaries were considered an essential business (how else would you get through the pandemic??) but now that we’re in the yellow, let’s talk about just how green our grass is. And yes, we’re talking cannabis.

Downtown Palm Springs has ten (sorry if I missed anyone) dispensaries, and I’ve added Joy of Life on the north end because she’s very active in our little community, and deserves the love. She also owns Crystal Fantasy, which I talked about on my “Events” blog last month.

Before I give you the list, most Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, and definitely the larger ones, do not allow any kind of smoking on their properties. But some do, so it’s always worth a query unless they have already stated otherwise. But there are other ways to medicate without breaking any rules.

Edibles. A lot of people don’t like these. Personally? I’m a fan. I still like my flower, and the occasional vape, but edibles are great when you can’t, or don’t want to, smoke or vape. You do, however, have to find the right strain and dosage for you. If you’ve never done them before, tell your budtender, they are trained to guide you. Most products recommend an initial dosage of five to ten milligrams.

There is a general conception that edibles mean brownies, cookies, gummies, and sugary treats, but there are also cocktails, syrups, powders and cooking products. However if you don’t know how to use them, you could end up in your room hoping you’ll come down soon. I had that issue years ago with medicated goldfish. I ate some, was watching Naked and Afraid and got hungry. I had nothing in the house to eat, then I remembered, “Oh, I have goldfish!” I ate the rest of the bag. Don’t do that. Seriously do not.

If you fancy an infused dinner with an executive chef, Brooke Egger is a great choice. She’s been on television (Cutthroat Kitchen) and has been a personal chef to many celebrities. She also has her own brand of edibles, Kande. Check out her IG (above).

CannaBUS Express Tours is always a great way to start your journey in the world of weed, or even for long-haulers. There is so much to learn! And it’s a hella fun ride. As fun as that ride is, it’s also incredibly informational. Cannabis is BIG business, and it goes through a lot before it ends up in your dispensary. You’ll stop at growhouses, manufacturers, distilleries, and distributors – the tour changes each time you go because there’s so much to learn, and so many places to see, and owner, Lynne Daniels tailors the tour on the fly for her riders.

The CannaBUS courtesy of CannaBUS Express Tours.

I want to tell you about a topical created by a Coachella Valley resident. Debbie’s husband got pretty banged up in his younger years, which made getting older pretty painful. She researched the medicinal and created Wild Bill’s Miracle Rub. It’s great for sore joints, arthritis, and it saved my bacon last year when I broke my shoulder. There is THC is the recipe, but it won’t get you high, it will just relieve your pain.

Wild Bill’s Miracle Rub courtesy of Zuma Topicals

Joan of Angels, another local, has a YouTube show about the 420 lifestyle. She’s very spiritual as you can see from her website. Give her a listen.

Four Twenty Bank and Dispensary is pretty unique. It’s 38,000 square feet scattered with seating areas for smoking your purchase, and other fun activities – pool tables, pinball machines, board games, a giant chess game, and more. It’s a unique experience, so give them a try.

And now, the list, from the North end to South end of Palm Springs: Check the location of your boutique hotel to find the one closest to you.

Joy of Life Wellness Center

142 W Oasis Rd
(760) 318-1420

Holland Pharms
150 N Palm Canyon Dr (818) 836-7908

OG Arabian Nights
232 N Palm Canyon Dr

Harvest HOC of Palm Springs Dispensary

312 N Palm Canyon Dr
(442) 226-4300

Lighthouse Marijuana Dispensary

395 N Palm Canyon Dr  (
760) 320-4420

Coachella Valley Green Dragon

53 S Palm Canyon Dr
(760) 438-9333

Four Twenty Bank Dispensary and Lounge

296 S Palm Canyon Dr
(760) 318-6877

Rockstar Cannabis Dispensary And Delivery

530 S Indian Canyon Dr
(760) 537-1334

PSA Organica

400 E Sunny Dunes Rd
(760) 778-1053

Off The Charts

1508 S Palm Canyon Dr

Please medicate responsibly, and as always, support locally-owned businesses. And if you go to any of our hotels or enjoy our recommendations, please be sure to tag us with your photos on IG, or @palmspringspreferredsmallhotels (yeah, it’s a lot to type, but we appreciate it!)

As the snow starts piling up in the east, Palm Springs, California — where the average winter temperature is in the 70s and there’s always lots of sunshine — sounds awfully good.

No matter what time of year you visit, VillageFest is something you will want to include in your itinerary. Taking place in downtown Palm Springs on Palm Canyon Drive, this street fair is held on Thursdays, from 6 to 10 p.m. October through May and 7 to 10 p.m. June through September. There are plenty of places to park, including a garage, several lots, and on the street, and yes, you can bring your furry friends who are happy being on leashes. VillageFest is closed on Thanksgiving and occasionally due to rainstorms or wind, but local news channels will alert you if those rare experiences occur.

Dining street side

While our fine dining restaurants are open on Thursdays, it might be time to have a unique experience buying your evening meal from one of the many food trucks or booths at VillageFest. Trust me, if you weren’t hungry when you arrived, you will be, for luscious smells permeate the air. This is your chance to try ethnic foods from truck owners specializing in their food lane; the last time I was at VillageFest, I smiled when I saw a cart serving empanadas, which instantly brought me back to my days living in the Caribbean. Many of the food items are cooked right before you, much to the delight of children who enjoy watching their meals being prepared, and there are picnic tables on the north side to eat on.

One of the many food trucks that stops at VillageFest. Photo by Kathy Condon

Art for sale

Walking down the street, you will find it crowded, so make sure you slow down and take time to step into the artists’ booths, where they are ready to share information on their processes. During a recent evening, there was an artist from Santa Cruz with pieces featuring palm trees that would be great for gracing large spaces in hallways, fitting well into modernism decor. There are also photos, prints, and watercolor notecards of Palm Springs that will be perfect reminders of your visit to the area. One of the more popular vendors is Sue, who takes tin cans and turns them into the ideal night lights or candle holders. You will be mesmerized by watching her create them on-site. 

As an added bonus, on Thursday nights, the Palm Springs Art Museum has free admittance from 5 to 8 p.m., a gift provided to the visitors and community by the city of Palm Springs. Check the museum’s website for details on the rotating exhibits.

One of the shopping options at VillageFest. Photo by Kathy Condon

Produce from our local farms

If you have visited the 26-foot high Marilyn Monroe statue on Museum Way, you can easily find where local farmers bring fresh produce to purchase. Dates come in several varieties, so be sure to ask for a sample; you may be surprised to learn they dance differently on your tastebuds with their unique textures. By the way, Coachella produces 95 percent of dates grown in the United States.

Our 350 days of sunlight annually allow farmers to grow produce here year-round, so you may be surprised how much is available. Also, you will find some delectable baked goods that are lovely with your morning coffee while enjoying our beautiful weather poolside. 

Dates for sale. Photo by Kathy Condon

Shopping is abundant

Yes, most local merchants keep their doors open during VillageFest, so you can buy the dress you saw earlier in the day. Or if you forgot your swimsuit or need a wrap for our cooler evenings, all of that is available. Small items that can easily be tucked in your suitcase for souvenirs or gifts can be found in the dozens of tented vendor booths. You will find everything from jewelry made out of paper, vintage clothing, candles, and specialty T-shirts to beautiful wood boxes and handmade pens. 

VillageFest was initially created to draw more people downtown during the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays. Now 22 years later, it has become an institution in Palm Springs. We residents make sure to take visitors there, and have our favorite vendors we patronize for unusual gifts, making it easy to send a little bit of Palm Springs culture off to friends. This event is near many of our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, making it even easier for you to explore this event that will help you learn, fill your senses, and enable you to check off items on your gift list.

Some gift ideas to bring home from Palm Springs. Photo by Kathy Condon

It’s important that people stay safe and close to home during this unprecedented crisis — doing so slows down the spread of the COVID-19 coronavirus and reduces the risk for contagion. That’s why large gatherings have been suspended in California, and citizens are being advised to avoid non-essential travel.

We understand that people will have concerns about traveling for some time to come, especially in regards to getting on an airplane or cruise ship, and we want to make it clear that there have been no coronavirus cases linked to any of our more than 70 boutique hotels in Palm Springs. 

Please know that the health and safety of guests who stay at our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels is — and always will be — our top priority. That’s why we are monitoring the latest news on the coronavirus, with our hearts going out to everyone affected.

Eventually, a road trip to Palm Springs may be a relaxing — and safer —alternative.

Once this passes and you feel confident traveling again, we hope you’ll consider Palm Springs for your first vacation destination. 

For those who are within driving distance — we’re looking at you, L.A., Phoenix, San Francisco, and Las Vegas — you can feel good about hitting the road and staying here in Palm Springs. All of our Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels are intimate, with most having around a dozen or so rooms, meaning guests don’t have to fear large gatherings (in some cases, you might go all day without seeing a fellow traveler!). 

From check-in to check-out, our hoteliers ensure that our guests have the best possible experience. One way they do this is by providing a clean environment — rooms, dining areas, common spaces, and bathrooms undergo a diligent cleaning at least once a day, with heavily-trafficked portions receiving special attention.

For those who may still be a little concerned about dining out, several of our hotels also have in-room kitchenettes and outdoor grills where you can whip up your own meals.

Late spring is when Palm Springs hits its peak — the weather is great and the pools are at just the right temperature. It may be the perfect time to treat yourself to a relaxing getaway, tailored to your comfort. Explore our hotels — we know you’ll find one that’s a good fit. We’ve got your stay. 

In need of a respite from daily life, we recently decided to visit Palm Springs with our dog, Fender. Not only did we want to stay at a dog-friendly hotel, but we were looking for a secluded setting with a nostalgic vibe, a wonderful pool for dipping and lounging, and a top-notch restaurant and bar. We found all this and more at Villa Royale, a beautiful hideaway — perfect for getting away in stylish comfort. 

Villa Royale, one of the first small hotels in Palm Springs, was built in 1947 with the Hollywood elite in mind. For many years, it was a sanctuary for celebrities who wanted to escape their hectic lives in Los Angeles, only two hours away. Several years ago, the hotel underwent a complete renovation, which fortunately retained the historic, mid-century charm of the original hotel. Today it is still an appealing popular retreat, not just for the rich and famous but for anyone seeking peace and tranquility in a lovely setting, highlighted by a stunning mountain backdrop.

In the cozy lobby, we checked in and were happy to be welcomed with a delightful cocktail. As we walked to our villa, we were thrilled to see not just one inviting pool surrounded by lounge chairs, but three. There are 38 villas at Villa Royale, each with its own unique mid-century modern character and design. We learned that the property has more than 50 pieces of original art commissioned for the hotel, with one in each room.

Our inviting room at the Villa Royale. Photo by Todd Montgomery

Our very nicely furnished room facing the serene pool was a haven for us and our dog, with a private landscaped back patio, luxurious bedding, and a wonderful walk-in shower. We were happy to learn that we could enjoy fresh coffee and a continental buffet in the morning. 

Welcome to the Del Rey. Photo by Todd Montgomery

In the evening, we were excited to be dining at Villa Royale’s upscale, popular restaurant, Del Rey, which specializes in tapas and small plates with a Spanish/Mediterranean flair. The menu is overseen by much celebrated Chef Louis Martinez. Since our dog was with us, we sat outside on the restaurant’s pleasant, inviting patio. It was a lovely but chilly night; however, we were warm and comfortable because of the very effective heating lamps strategically placed by our table. There was a wedding party dining nearby and, like us, they seemed happy and relaxed. We also checked out the inside of the restaurant which is romantic and intimate, with dim lighting and cozy tables. The restaurant features an inviting oak and marble bar where I would like to while away a few convivial hours someday. 

The inviting fireplace inside the Del Rey. Photo by Todd Montgomery

Del Rey offers a variety of enticing cocktails. We enjoyed a unique and surprisingly delicious Del Rey Martini made with touches of sherry, orange bitters, and olive oil (yes, olive oil). We also relished the El Ultimo cocktail made with strawberry tequila, absinthe, and orgeat syrup, served with lime and mint. In addition, Del Rey offers a full wine list, featuring Spanish wines. Fender was happy with his drink, too, when the helpful staff brought him a bowl of fresh water.

Then, in the Spanish tradition, we ordered a variety of tapas for our dinner. I love this kind of meal because you can sample small bites of a variety of dishes.  We really enjoyed the Basque asparagus, topped with romesco sauce and manchego, and also savored albondigas — beef and pork meatballs covered with a sweet and sour glaze. 

We loved the Chuleta de Cordero, rosemary and lemon marinated lamb chops, which were tender and full of flavor.  Another superb dish was a grilled flatbread called Pan Con Setas that was topped with mushrooms, manchego, red onion, and an herbed olive oil drizzle. For dessert, we savored the delectable walnut bread pudding. The friendly service at Del Rey was impeccable and added to the ambiance of the evening. Satiated, we sauntered back to our villa through the lushly landscaped courtyards with flowing fountains and pools that shimmered invitingly in the moonlight.

The delicious walnut bread pudding. Photo by Todd Montgomery

It was truly a special night and we felt very far away from our busy daily lives. It is surprising how relaxed you can become with just a night away in such a peaceful, glorious retreat. We may not be celebrities, but we felt like royalty at Villa Royale. 

The Villa Royale lights up at night. Photo by Todd Montgomery

You know your idea is successful when locals and visitors alike ask if Desert X is happening in the Coachella Valley again this year. With fanfare, we can proudly say the fourth Desert X is not only alive and well, it once again has produced some outstanding art installations definitely worth planning a weekend trip to check them out.

Many of our terrific Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels said their occupancy rate increased immediately after Desert X announced it was taking place March 4 through May 7, 2023. Our boutique hotels, with all their different vibes, are helping people find the perfect atmosphere to launch their journeys to discover the art installations.

What is Desert X? 

This biennial event is an exhibition of 10 art installations throughout our desert landscape. Through a juried process, international and local artists were selected from their portfolios and invited to participate. Desert X identified a theme for 2023 that focuses on how we design our environments and live, which may or may not serve our world well. With the theme in mind, the selection committee hosts the artists and takes them to locations across the Coachella Valley that are accessible to the public and suitable for art to be installed.

How do you find the art installations?  

Physical maps are available at the Ace Hotel. You can also download a map from the Desert X website. If you want to rely on your phones, here are the apps for Desert X for both iOS and Android.

Pro tip: From experience, I can tell you the GPS to these installations may not be totally accurate. Just keep an eye open; sometimes, the art is just on the opposite side of the road that GPS tells you.

Photo by Kathy Condon

What do I need to explore the area? 

Now that you have the map or app, you should know a couple more things. First, you will need a car to explore Desert X — the installations are too spread out for walking.

Even though it feels like 70 degrees is perfect for exploring, our desert sun can be deceiving.  Make sure you apply suntan lotion, take your sunglasses, wear a hat, and have plenty of water. Some of the artworks are located out in the open desert with nary a bit of shade to be found.

In fact, the best way to look at it is to prepare like you are going on a hike in the desert, and you will have all that you need. Oh, and wear closed-toe shoes. Trust me, you will be glad you did, for some paths are loose sand, filled with little spurs that find their way between your toes.

Pro tips: Desert X, upon request, will make reasonable accommodations to ensure people with disabilities have access to the art — email info@desertX.org with inquiries.

Also, take note: there are no restrooms available at the sites.

Desert X is a family event 

Each time Desert X is held, I marvel at the laughter of families who have chosen to explore this free event together. Teenagers seem to relish being the directors to the various locations, while the younger ones frolic on the grounds surrounding each piece of art.

If you have been meaning to come to Palm Springs with a group of friends, Desert X provides the perfect daytime activity. Then, you have the whole evening to enjoy some of our patio restaurants, which offer a variety of cuisines.

What will I see? 

That is the great thing about this exhibition. Every stop is different and is open to interpretation by the person viewing it. I was at the event’s opening and met some artists. Interestingly, most of them were reluctant to explain their art. They want you to experience and come up with your own interpretation.

My experience at an installation

With a friend and a map in hand, we decided to head out to see London artist Rana Begum’s “No. 1225 Chainlink” in Palm Desert. Once we found the site, we parked the car and headed down the pedestrian path to the enormous chainlink fence structure.

To our delight, Rana was onsite and being filmed, so we listened in on the interview. What struck me was that she said, “When you are walking through it, there is a sense of openness and then a sense of things closing in on you, and even a sense of panic for some.”

Rana Begum’s “No. 1225 Chainlink” art installation. Photo by Kathy Condon

I entered the maze, and as it narrowed, I ended up in the middle, where round metal poles allowed me to feel the openness of the space. Then the task of finding my way out was not that easy. Admittedly, I sense panic for a moment — just like the artist predicted. The panic was short-lived, and I was smiling as I walked out.

I stood back and marveled that while the structure was massive, the lemon-colored fencing was somehow at home in its spot. Since it is going to remain in place through May, I can see taking visitors to Palm Springs out to experience it.

Sunnylands hosts an installation  

Frankly, I never need an excuse to visit Sunnylands. Since one of the installations is there — “Amar A Dios En Tierra De Indios, Es Oficio Maternal,” by Mexican artist Paloma Contreras Lomas — we headed out to see it.

It was opening day, and I was once again blessed with the ability to meet the artist, perched on one of the many benches that grace the grounds of Sunnylands. The weather was beautiful, after a couple of rare rainy days in Palm Springs, and we discussed how her art contained several fragile touches and how they were created. 

Desert X certainly does not disappoint. With eight more installations to visit, I am fortunate to live in Palm Springs and able to take off whenever I want to see them. If you plan to visit, I suggest you head to the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to make reservations for your accommodations. Word is spreading about this quality and often provocative art scattered throughout Coachella Valley, which adds the adventure of a scavenger hunt. Join in the fun and experience our lovely spring weather while taking in the beauty of our valley, surrounded by our majestic mountains.

If you’re looking to plan the ultimate boys gaycation weekend with your besties, there’s no doubt that Palm Springs, California, is on your short list of places to go. It’s one of the few LGBTQ+ safe havens in the country that caters to the queer community year-round — and it’s a mid-century modern desert oasis of fun in the sun. In fact, the entire Coachella Valley is one of the most welcoming places for you and your boys to stay, play, and slay (yaaass, queen).

Ready to start making an itinerary? Here are a few of my suggestions for Palm Springs boutique hotels, restaurants, and activities:

Stay

Santiago Resort

The intimate and luxurious Santiago Resort is a paradise for men if you and your boys want to let down your guard – and your swimwear. If you haven’t yet experienced a saltwater (saline) pool, you’re in for a genuine treat at this ever-popular clothing-optional resort. If they happen to be all booked up, check out their brother resort Descanso for a similarly sophisticated experience. From their complimentary poolside lunch to the new friends you’ll meet poolside, you won’t want to stay anywhere that isn’t clothing-optional again after this.

The Santiago Resort at dusk. Photo courtesy of the Santiago Resort

INNdulge Palm Springs

INNdulge is a popular men’s resort in the Warm Sands district of Palm Springs, with a 24-hour heated saltwater pool and 12-man jacuzzi. It’s a more economical option as well if you and the boys are on a budget (or holding out for more of the fun stuff). They have 25 years of experience assisting men with their first time at a clothing-optional resort, but you can also watch the alluring videos on their website in advance if you’re curious.

The INNdulge grounds. Photo courtesy of INNdulge

Desert Paradise Resort Hotel

The Desert Paradise Resort Hotel is an intimate 12-room boutique hotel that strives to go above and beyond for their guests from check in to check out. Also conveniently located in the Warm Sands district, Desert Paradise is a beautiful, relaxing option for an attitude-free atmosphere with spectacular views.

The Desert Paradise’s pool and spa area. Photo courtesy of Desert Paradise

Eat

Eight4Nine Restaurant & Lounge

From its chic, colorful interior to fantastic music playlist, Eight4Nine Restaurant & Lounge is a must for any first-timer’s boys weekend. Their New American cuisine is as contemporary as their Pop Art atmosphere, and it’s a great option for brunch, lunch, happy hour, and/or dinner. It even has Miley Cyrus’ seal of approval, so need I say more?

Grab a drink at Eight4Nine. Photo courtesy of Eight4Nine

AsiaSF Palm Springs

Now with their second location right here in Palm Springs, AsiaSF is a cabaret dinner show that has been dazzling audiences for 23 years in San Francisco. Think of this as an elevated drag show, with the exception that all AsiaSF performers are transgender women, bringing the house down each night with legendary lip syncs, light shows, and choreography. Their Asian-fusion three-course meals are as memorable as their performers as well, so it’s truly a feast for the senses!

Blackbook Bar & Kitchen

Blackbook is located in the heart of the Arenas district and has a reputation among locals for having the best bar food in Palm Springs. It’s a great place to meet new friends during happy hour — and a great place to sober up if you’re bar-hopping throughout Arenas’ many gay watering holes. Try the cheese-stuffed Juicy Lucy burger (or the Juicy Lucifer if you want to add some heat).

Experience

Drag shows

What would a boys weekend be without drag shows, hunty? Luckily, there are drag shows all throughout the greater Palm Springs area. Drag brunch is a must, so check out the Mile High Boozy Brunch at PS Air Bar & Lounge, a playful airline-themed speakeasy inside the Bouschet wine store. Then check out Vanity’s Doll Haus every Friday night at One Eleven Bar in Cathedral City. You might even catch a Drag Race Ru Gurl there now and again. Here’s a complete list of drag shows from Gay Desert Guide for more ideas. Shantay, you stay!

MOGO Silent Disco

MOGO Silent Disco is Palm Springs’ latest event where you and the boys can turn up the volume on your headsets and dance your a**es off on a private parade through downtown. Kaftans, sequins, and stunning outfits are always encouraged!

Sunday Funday

Everything gay happens here in Palm Springs on Sunday, which is why the locals call it “Sunday Funday.” Start the day with drag brunch, naturally. Then lounge by the hotel pool or crash a pool party until it’s time for Oscar’s legendary tea dance. After you’ve had enough disco, strap on some leather gear and head on over to the Barracks for their legendary Beer Bust.

Explore

Mid-century modern tours

If you’re as big of a fan of mid-century modern as I am, consider Palm Springs Mod Squad Tours or Mid-Century Modern Tours. If a self-guided tour is more your jam, you and the boys can caravan around some iconic mid-century modern neighborhoods with The Palm Springs Guys’ MCM Architecture Self-Guided Tour Guide (Google Maps GPS-ready!). As a bonus, there are always open houses worth checking out here on the weekends that will have you feeling like you’re at Modernism Week.

The mid-century modern Visitors Center. Photo by Arthur Coleman Photography

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway

If you’re looking to cool down, the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway climbs up two-and-a-half-miles of Chino Canyon cliffs to the top of Mt. San Jacinto State Park — an elevation of 8,516 feet and temperature drop of nearly 20 degrees. This is the self-described “world’s largest rotating tram car” and riders enjoy spectacular views of the panoramic valleys below. There are 50+ miles of trails — after a hike through the butterscotch-scented Jeffrey pines, take to the observation decks for happy hour before a nice dinner at Peaks Restaurant.

Palm Springs Art Museum

The Palm Springs Art Museum has an incredible collection of 12,000 works of modern and contemporary art, architecture, and design, and is always inspiring to see. So are the installations surrounding the property, like Palm Springs Babies and the 26-foot sculpture of Marilyn Monroe located directly in front of the museum.

When your ultimate boys weekend in Palm Springs comes to an end, you’ll leave with plenty of memories and photos to post on the Gram — be sure to tag them with #gaycation and #ilovegaypalmsprings.

Marilyn Monroe in all of her glory. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

If you like to plan ahead, keep an eye open for PSPSH’s summer offers. The hottest deals can be found with mid-week and long stays with new ones offers added regularly.  There’s no better way to beat coastal May Gray or June Gloom than a trip to Palm Springs, where the days are hot, the nights are cool, and the hotels are a cut above special.

More than any other meal, dining out for supper is special. I mean, a meal under the desert sun is very different from a meal beneath the light of the desert sky.  Dinner could be a celebration, a romantic evening (for two or three — whatever floats your boat), or a get together with friends. No matter which one you’re here for, I’m here for you.

Fine dining in Palm Springs

Empty tables and a fire pit on the outdoor patio at Spencer's in Palm Springs, California

Spencer’s is a special occasion type of place. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Spencer’s — This is often the go-to for special occasions. The Bougainvillea Room is nice, but so is the inner space. I’d choose this for a classy celebration.

Tropicale — Outside is a party, but the booths inside offer the feel of your own little room. I’d recommend this for a birthday dinner with a small group of friends.

Johnny Costa’s — Very old school Italian, Rat Pack. Johnny was Sinatra’s favorite chef (both now gone). The waiters are pros — no college students here.

Le Vallauris — A fine dining experience, and rife for romance.

Eight4Nine — I’d call this the alternative to Spencer’s, but it’s on the strip. Owner and restaurateur Willie Rhine is well known and beloved by our town. Feel free to love on him too.

The Purple Room — Best dinner club in Palm Springs. Super Rat Pack atmosphere, great jazz-leaning acts, very old school Palm Springs.

A white wall with a gate that reads "So•Pa"

So•Pa is a must-try while staying at L’Horizon Resort and Spa. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

So•Pa — I spent Thanksgiving here, and wowie wow wow. It’s at L’Horizon Resort and Spa and is stunning. If you want someone to fall for you, take them here.

Miro — I love this place. Excellent food, great staff, and lovely ambiance.

Mr. Lyon’s — It’s not what I expected as far as ambiance. It’s kind of “cozy LA” inside. This is another spot for special occasions and DO NOT pass on the rolls.

Melvyn’s — Another old school spot, inside Ingleside Inn which is also an old estate with a great story. You can read all about it in Mel Haber’s books about Palm Springs, which you can purchase here. There’s also terrific music.

Azúcar — Inside La Serenas Villas, this teeters between fine dining and casual dining. The food is modern contemporary cuisine, and the view is to die for.

Johannes — Clean lines, great art on the walls, the schnitzel’s the thing here. Have it just about any way you like, it’s gonna be good. It’s not the only thing, there’s seafood too, and desserts. This is not for groups, but maybe a nice evening between two or three friends. Maybe four, but if you’re loud, like I am, keep it small.

Del Rey — If I were trying to seduce someone, I’d take them here. Located at Villa Royale, it has sexy decor and tapas, which are sexy because there’s just enough for two. It’s somewhere between casual and fine dining, but the energy is swanky.

Casual dining

1501 Gastropub — Great menu, great atmosphere. There’s a nice, big, seatable full bar. Super casual, but don’t take that to mean you don’t need a reservation. It’s a hot ticket.

Las Casuelas Terraza — Take the party here.

Upscale casual dining

Diners sit at tables outside of Lulu California Bistro in Palm Springs, California

Lulu’s is always hopping. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Lulu — Everyone has to go to Lulu at least once. The atmosphere is great, and the food is terrific too. The owner, Jerry, does great things in the community, so you can thank him by taking the party here. Although they can accommodate just about any size group, they can also give you a quieter space, or you can people watch on the patio.

Gigi’s — Take your chi chi friends here for a fun Palm Springs experience.

John Henry’s — This is off the beaten path, hard to find, and the parking is horrible, but once you find it, it’s charming. Eat outside and take someone you’re sweet on.

Birba — Pizza, but fancy.

Trio — I haven’t been since their facelift and new menu, but it used to be “the spot” for cocktails and dinner. Limited parking in the back, but there’s parking.

Maracas — I mentioned it for lunch, but it’s also great for dinner with friends.

Pomme Frite — Chef wants you to know it’s a French/Belgian bistro. It’s adorable. Go here to catch up with a friend and stay for a bit.

For foodies

French Miso — Tucked back, it’s actually part of La Plaza but, like I said, it’s tucked so it’s kind of hidden (although they now have big old signs). It’s quite lovely.

Freddie’s Kitchen — On the northern end, inside The Cole hotel, is this little French gem. I haven’t tried it yet, but it’s on my list.

Sandfish — It’s sushi. A lot of people love it. I went when it first opened, and I was short of impressed. But that was a few years back — try it out and let me know.

Farm — Farm curates a menu for dinner that is very different from its breakfast and lunch. There’s an amuse bouche to start, and then some choices, prices are fixed. It’s quite a lovely space too. Closed Wednesday and Thursday for dinner.

Michelin Guide

Blue leather chairs lined up in front of the bar at Bar Cecil in Palm Springs, California

If you can, try to score a seat at Bar Cecil. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Bar Cecil The darling of the jet set.

Tac/Quila Jalisco, which means it’s seafood forward. Same owners as Farm. Same great attention to detail in decor and food choices.

Workshop Kitchen & Bar — It’s very L.A.

Boozehounds — Chef Aric Ianni has worked for Kimpton, but his sensibilities run more to beer pairings with fine food.

The Barn Kitchen — At Sparrows Lodge. Good food, great atmosphere.

Colony Club

4 Saints

A little something about dress. You can pretty much dress any way that you like, although resort casual seems to be the go-to these days. There has been a recent trend that I am crazy about, and that’s fashion forward streetwear. Even more specific are those that embrace the mid-mod aesthetic of yore. It’s fun, and it’s flirty. And it makes Palm Springs feel like the technicolor part of Pleasantville. It’s a gas, man. A real gas.

With summer officially in full swing, hospitality staff at Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels are turning their attention to pampering visitors from all over the world. 

The pools are cool, the nights are warm, and everyone is languid. Yes, it’s hot, but hey, midday, head to the museums, the top of the mountain on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (where it’s always 30 degrees cooler and the views are breathtaking), or hit the air-conditioned stores and galleries to take advantage of their sizzling summer sales. Most Palm Springs restaurants remain open — however, they may adjust their hours, so be sure to check their websites. 

The sooner you book your stay, the better. For the past couple of summers, Palm Springs’ small boutique hotels, many with a vibe to fit your travel style, have been busy. That said, you can save some serious money and time by booking directly with a boutique hotel inside of going through a third-party travel platform. Plus, you’ll have a much better experience in general.

“Small hotels have distinct personalities. That’s one of the things that makes them special,” says Michael Green, owner of the Triangle Inn Palm Springs. “So if you want to stay at one, go direct. You’ll get the best sense of the hotel itself.”

Here are six reasons you should book directly with a boutique hotel or resort:

1. Room choice

Many of Palm Springs’ small hotels and resorts (those with no more than 50 rooms) have been remodeled, often resulting in new additions, removal of walls to make larger suites, and a carefully-curated environment to enhance the guest experience. 

Third-party booking companies are given a block of tickets to sell in a particular area of the hotel, with no knowledge of where rooms may be located or details on the hotel’s total environment. 

“Room choices are often ‘run of house’ with third parties, as opposed to the guest booking directly with the hotel and locking in their room,” explains Sarah Martinez, general manager of Azure Sky, a new luxury boutique hotel in Palm Springs. Green concurs, saying, “Booking platforms generally only get a select piece of inventory from hotels, and especially from small hotels — maybe just one room type — so for the full picture, it’s always better to talk to the hotel directly.”

Sarah Martinez, general manager of Azure Sky.

2. Accountability 

We’ve all been there. You booked a flight through one of the discount sites, and it gets delayed due to weather, there’s a schedule change, or you have a family emergency. You need to contact someone for help, and that’s when the epic nightmare of a time sink begins.

After a long wait on the phone, the airline says they can’t help because you booked through a third party, so you must call them. The person who answers does not understand the situation or doesn’t have the authority to make changes and says there is no way they can help. You push for a higher manager, and the saga continues. The same scenario can happen when you use a third party to book hotel reservations.

“Because third-party reservations lock us out of any changes or adjustments, it’s easier to adjust a reservation that has been booked directly,” says Kent Taylor, general manager at Descanso Resort.

3. Flexibility 

The text arrives: Aunt Mable decides she wants to come along on the trip after all. Great — you have a built-in babysitter! — but now there aren’t enough beds for everyone.

“If you booked directly with the hotel, it’s super easy to call it and modify your reservation … perhaps to a suite or whatever accommodation hotel management suggests. Flexibility is number one,” Martinez says. “Once a guest books a room through a third party, the hotel cannot make changes to the reservation and the guest has to deal with the third party directly. It created a middleman which can lead to frustration because it may appear the hotel is not helpful.”

Taylor agrees, saying, “We try very hard to be as flexible as possible. There are so many unforeseen situations in our world these days, the last thing anyone needs is more complications while just trying to take a vacation.”

4. Packages and special deals

Especially during the summer, when making a reservation with a hotel, ask if there are any packages available. Palm Springs is a very close-knit community, and often attractions work with hotels to offer guests special rates for the abundance of things to experience. 

“Many hotels offer perks to those who book directly, such as upgrades or cancellations without penalties,” one hotelier revealed. “But it’s usually on a case-by-case basis, so you’ll never find them on one of the third-party booking platforms.” Martinez is more blunt, declaring, “Hotels offer various deals and packages not found on third-party sites.”

5. Pricing 

Being a responsible traveler and planner, you are probably accustomed to checking out third-party websites. Always a good idea, but do not stop there. Once you have selected the hotel that appears to meet your needs, check out their website and call the number listed. Be ready with your accommodation needs and ask them for their advice and the price. If it appears the price is higher than you found online, tell them — they would rather give you the discount than pay the third party a fee. 

According to Martinez, hotels will often price match, except when the third party is directly undercutting the hotel or is packaging the room with other sales, such as airfare or car rentals.

“We prefer direct bookings to reduce the commission cost of 18 percent from the OTAs (other travel agencies),” says Robert Hunt, general manager of Alcazar Palm Springs. This alsoallows the front desk agent to discuss the type of room that best fits the guest’s needs, since we have 10 different room types available on the property.”

Plus, sometimes a “deal” from an OTA or booking platform really isn’t. Taylor shares this cautionary tale: “I had a small group call about booking a specific weekend with several rooms. After giving them the information they needed, they decided to all book themselves on the website. Everyone but one booked directly with the hotel. One member of the group booked with a specific website that offers a portion of a free hotel night, if a certain number of rooms are booked in the year. The one guest who booked with that third-party website was paying approximately $25 more a night than everyone else in his group. I was shocked to see it! He was paying in advance for his ‘free night’ … and then some.”

“Some OTAs use tricky, misleading tactics to make it appear the guest rate is lower than the hotel,” Martinez warns. “The initial average room rate can sometimes look less expensive but as the guest books, there are large fees added to the booking and the guest is not actually paying a lower rate.”

Kent Taylor, general manager of Descanso Resort

6. Book direct and make better memories

The special touch offered by front desk agents at Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels will make your stay more memorable.

“The very nature of a third-party booking website removes the personal touch,” Taylor says. “We take many reservations over the phone and people ask a variety of questions that inform their vacation on the whole. Where can we go for our special dinner? Is there a gym close by? Do you serve vegan yogurt at breakfast? Only someone helping you at the hotel will know the answers to these types of questions. It is like having a direct connect to a local for help in creating the best vacation you can have.”

Pro tips to remember:

If you book your hotel directly and need to make a change, they can help you do so with one short phone call.

A direct relationship with the hotel gives you a lot more flexibility because they are in the hospitality business, not the booking business.

When you speak to an employee at a boutique hotel, they can answer your questions about the property, unlike third-party agents who are not familiar with the offerings.

Some booking platforms make it look like you’re getting a lower price, but they tack on hefty fees at the end, increasing the final total.