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Downtown Palm Springs: Vibrant & Flourishing

Downtown Palm Springs (roughly defined as from the north end of Alejo Rd. and south to Ramon Rd.) offers visitors a vibrant combination of the old and the new. The sidewalks are wide, the mid-century and Spanish-style storefronts are charming, and the lovely palm trees sway in soft breezes. This is all enhanced by the weather, which is beautiful, no matter what time of year you visit.

Mary Jo Ginther, Director of the Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism, says, “The City’s goal, along with the business owners and residents, is to retain the character and ambiance of Palm Springs for visitors and locals alike, while providing new development to keep everything up to date. We are all very proud of the way our City has developed over the last 20 years.”

So much has happened in the last two decades. The old-fashioned plaza mall, which had been closed for 15 years, has been revitalized and the area is highlighted by outstanding restaurants and enticing shopping.

A variety of small boutique hotels in the downtown area offer visitors enchanting options for personalized accommodations in lushly landscaped settings. Many of these hotels were favorite getaways for the rat pack during Hollywood’s heyday in Palm Springs and they still exude the charm of that magical era. Some of these beautifully designed retreats, all members of the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels association, include Casa Cody Country Inn, Andalusian Court, Ingleside Inn, Holiday House, La Serena Villas, La Maison, and Alcazar Palm Springs.. Several of these hotels include wonderful restaurants such as The Pantry at Holiday House, Melvyn’s at the Ingleside Inn, Acuzar at La Serena Villas, and Birba and Cheekys at Alcazar.

Plans for future expansion and renovation of the downtown area are underway. Discussions include renovating the historic Town and Country Center to much of its original mid-century modern condition. These plans are important because this area connects Palm Canyon Drive to Indian Canyon Drive, which is becoming two-way instead of one-way. This will improve the area for pedestrian traffic.

The city is expanding eastward toward the airport. The Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, which has been very involved in the economic development of Palm Springs, is developing an exciting new campus with a cultural museum, bath house and spa, and an expanded casino. Construction is also just starting for a spacious 10,000-seat arena.

The Tahquitz Corridor going from downtown to the airport has been preserved. For example, an historical building designed by celebrated architect Hugh Kaptur has been restored to its original mid-century modern design rather than replaced by a high rise that had been contemplated by some developers. The once almost-empty building is now flourishing with retailers, a coffee bar, a wine bar, and offices.

Since the areas being developed are owned by both the city and the Agua Caliente tribe (in a checkerboard pattern), some plots of land are controlled by the city and some by the tribe, but they have worked well together over the years to develop the area. There is also a very healthy preservationist community that is involved in many of these plans and residents are active in decision-making with great value placed on buildings that are unique to the mid-century heritage of Palm Springs. These renovations have brought back visitors who value the historical significance of the area.

Much credit for development goes to the businesses putting their resources back into the city. Ten years ago, there was no real food scene in Palm Springs and now many wonderful restaurants are thriving. Tours have also exploded, with biking tours, mid-century modern tours, hiking tours, and celebrity bus tours. There is even a foodie’s Desert Tasty Tour and the Palm Springs Historical Society has tours every Saturday morning with a focus on the town’s unique history.

Downtown Palm Springs is perfect for walkers. You can walk from many of the small boutique hotels and explore the shops, restaurants, and architecture. People are friendly and the town is safe. The vibe is relaxing with something for everyone.

The city’s slogan — “Like No Place Else” — is so true. And the city’s planners intend to maintain and continue to develop its special character.

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Questions Answered About Modernism Week 2024

Orange door and white brick entrance to The Weekend Palm Springs mid-century modern hotel in Palm Springs, California

Well, actually, it is 11 days, but the banner still flies, calling it Modernism Week. With approximately 350 scheduled events running from Feb. 15-25, you can imagine the buzz.

Hopefully, you have visited the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to find a place to stay while you experience Modernism Week. If you do not have a reservation, it is best to call the hotels directly because there may be cancellations at your favorite property. Besides, they appreciate learning ahead of time what your specific needs are to make it a perfect visit.

What can you expect at Modernism Week? 

There will be lots of people. Last year, an estimated 105,477 visitors found their way to our city to learn and celebrate mid-century modern design, architecture, culture, and art.

Keep flexible. Many of the events are already sold out. Check here what is still available and purchase your tickets before you arrive.

We highly recommend taking the double-decker bus tour if it is still available. The tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable, and you learn a wealth of information about the architecture and history of Palm Springs.

New this year is an Illuminated Twilight Tour. This excursion will surely provide a look at the beautiful lighting of homes in Palm Springs. Expect to be awed by the creative lighting systems, sometimes even showcasing our ancient palm trees.

Note: All double-deck tours leave from the Hyatt Hotel.

Where do I start when I arrive? 

Welcome to CAMP. Photo: Kathy Condon

The CAMP (Community and Meeting Place) is an excellent place to start. It is located in the Hyatt Palm Springs on North Palm Canyon Drive. The CAMP is also the place to relax, meet friends, and talk to some vendors who share your love for anything mid-century. Pick up a schedule or check the Modernism website, for there are many things you can see for free.

Note: Free underground parking here is plentiful.

How should I dress for Modernism Week?  

We would love to say we will have high 70s and 80s weather. However, we never know what to expect in February. So, the best advice we can give you is to bring layers. Our weather can fluctuate 30 degrees between day and night, so you should not leave your warm jacket behind. You will also want to bring your walking shoes; if you are anything like most of us, you start at one place and get intrigued by something a few blocks away.

Where can I dine while Visiting Palm Springs?

If you have been here and have a favorite restaurant, make your reservations now. During Modernism Week, we locals know it is practically impossible to walk into a restaurant to dine without a reservation.

Here is a list of some Happy Hours presently being offered, but you may want to call to see if they change their hours during Modernism Week.

Should I go hiking during Modernism Week? 

Absolutely, though you may find trails a little more crowded than usual. More than likely the weather will be perfect for outdoor activities. We recommend wearing a hat, using suntan lotion, and taking more water than you think you need. Here is a list of some of the trails in Palm Springs.

Transportation in Palm Springs 

A red double-decker bus takes visitors around Palm Springs, California, during Modernism Week

One way to get around during Modernism Week is by double-decker bus. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

If you decide to park your car and let others do the driving, be assured we have Lyft, Uber, taxis, and buses readily available. Getting around the city is not difficult. Remember, we are 10 minutes from the Palm Springs International Airport, with over 10 direct flights from various cities in Canada and the United States.

Is it possible to rent bicycles to travel between venues?

Yes. Palm Springs is doing a great job of marking bicycle paths on our major roads. Many neighborhoods, such as the beautiful Las Palmas area, are delightful to visit via bicycle. It is one of the older neighborhoods dotted with massive estates.

Again, we recommend you reserve a bicycle rental before you arrive. Some vendors rent bikes, and you can also see if your resort provides them; many of our small boutique hotels include bikes as one of their amenities.

What if I can’t get tickets for places I want to see? 

It’s always fun to explore inside homes during Modernism Week. Photo: Kathy Condon

There is a solution. In October, there is a smaller version of Modernism Week called Fall Modernism Week. Dates have not been announced for 2024, but if you sign up for the Modernism newsletter, you will be among the first to be notified.

In any case, once you know the dates and want to come, be sure to visit Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels and get your hotel reservations. Word is getting out that crowds are less in the fall, and you can be assured of outstanding weather.

Modernism is fun, engaging, and a unique experience not duplicated anywhere in the world. Palm Springs’ motto is “Like No Place Else.” Once you come to Modernism Week, you will understand why that fits our desert community.

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Palm Springs Benches Enhanced with Art

Can you take a dark-brown cement bench and turn it into art while still maintaining its function for resting or people-watching? The answer in Palm Springs is an unequivocal, yes.

Mainstreet Palm Springs’ Downtown and Uptown Business Association have upgraded the benches throughout the entire area thanks to a grant by the Palm Springs Art Commission. Local artists, representing  the culture and diversity of  the valley, were each paid a stipend for giving a new look and life to 70 benches, including 8 at the Palm Springs International Airport.

Initially, local artist Tysen Knight was commissioned to paint ten benches to test the concept. And they were a big hit. Functional and eye-catching, the colorful benches became the focus of many visitors’ photos. With the success of the first phase, phase two was approved.

Each bench looks like this before it receives its new life. As you can see, the artists have a blank canvas to design and apply their art.

A before shot of the plain brown benches have been transformed by local artists.

A before shot of the plain brown benches have been transformed by local artists.

Here are examples of the benches created by our local artists from our culturally diverse community.

Abe Alvarez Tostado

Abe Alvarez Tostado colorful bench in Palm Springs evokes community heart and unity.

A resident of Yucca Valley. In his younger years, he was interested in comics. Then with his Mom, who was an artist, he started going to art galleries. His artistic talents were encouraged by friends that surrounded him at Long Beach, California. He has painted murals in San Francisco, Long Beach, Los Angeles, San Diego, and Palm Springs for over 30 years. 

Susan Gresto

Artist Susan Gresto’s bench in iconic Palm Springs hues of oranges and blues features free-spirited winged humans greeting one another.

A resident of Palm Springs. It brings her great joy to mentor students, support community art programs. Her work has been exhibited and sold at the Palm Springs Art Museum Store, University of California Riverside, the Community Gallery at Palm Desert City Hall, Indio Senior Center, and CREATE Center for the Arts Palm Desert.  

Tim J Leary

Tim Leary created a bold geometric and linear bench design.

A resident of Indio.  His work as a visual merchandiser spanned 28 years and three states: Florida, Connecticut, and California. After moving to San Francisco, he completed his formal education, studying spirituality and art, and art therapy. He has a studio in the Backstreet Art District in Palm Springs.

Jessica Frederic

A bright lime-green bench with palm fronds and yellow and black birds came to life by artist Jessyca Frederick.

A resident of La Quinta. After years of searching, she now uses her creativity and problem-solving skills to create art. With encouragement from friends and artists, this bench is her first piece of public art.

Paul Kole

Paul Kole created a word-art bench with a bright white background and multi-colored letters that remind visitors of the joys found in Palm Springs.

He resides in Orange County, Palm Springs, Arizona, and International resort stay-cations. His abstract work on wood and other materials are in the United States and international collections. He has a working studio in Palm Desert, California.

Stroll up and down Canyon Drive to see these creative benches. They most certainly will bring a smile to your face. Oh, if you need to stop and rest, be our guest, and remember, we have great people-watching in Palm Springs.

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Modern for the People

Love desert modern design? This fabulous story by Alan Hess in Palm Springs Life tells how the Alexander Family put desert modern living within reach for Palm Springs.

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Hotel Alcazar in Palm Springs Offers the Perfect Escape

The white sign at the front of Alcazar Palm Springs with blue letters spelling out the hotel's name

As fall arrives and with winter approaching rapidly, one’s thoughts often turn to places in the sun. With an average of 269 days of sunlight every year, Palm Springs is a sound choice.

With a perfect combination of ambiance, amenities, and location, a wise choice to stay is Alcazar Palm Springs. This quiet, 34-room, secluded hotel is one block from the central artery into downtown Palm Springs. Yet, the beautiful grounds makes you feel as if you have arrived in Paradise.

Alcazar is part of local restaurateur and hotelier Tara Lazar’s F10 Creative, which focuses on developing and upholding sustainable methods of operation, maintaining genuinely happy and inspired team members, and creating unique and memorable moments for every guest.  The F in the corporate name stands for “fun, food, festivals, family, fashion and friends.” The 10 stands for 6+2+2 — their address 622 North Palm Canyon Drive.

Once you park in the spacious lot, you will see the impressive artistic gates, which give homage to the site, which was once known as the Pepper Tree Inn. These gates are large and display a local artist’s interpretation of the pepper trees once prevalent in the Palm Springs area.

When you walk through the archway to the registration desk, you immediately feel this is an extraordinary place. At the registration desk, you are graciously welcomed, offered drinks, and pastries as you take a breath and begin your time away from home.

Like a cathedral, the palo verde trees provide a canopy over this inviting space. The water screen helps provide the sense of serenity; and quickly calms any travel anxiety. At night, this area becomes a magical, communal space to enjoy the desert sky.

After you settle in, the saltwater pool beckons you to come for a swim. Lounge chairs and towels are readily available and provide the perfect accessories for you to relax after your drive or flight. As your drinks are served in the jacuzzi, you take a deep breath and realize you are now on vacation.

Hungry? No problem, you do not have to leave the premises nor take a shower and dress up. Just take the walkway to Cheeky’s. This restaurant is part of F10 with the same owners as the hotel. Farm-fresh ingredients are used to produce an ever-changing delectable breakfast and lunch menu. On weekends, you find locals waiting in line for late breakfast. Its bacon flight is a perennial favorite of tourists and locals alike.

With your car safely parked, you have access to free bicycles to start exploring Palm Springs. Each neighborhood has distinctive architectural and landscape, which makes any direction you take on our many clearly marked bike paths an exceptional experience. After each use, bicycles are thoroughly disinfected as part of Alcazar’s Covid-19 protocol.

After your bike ride, swim, and shower, it is time for dinner. Just a few steps from Cheeky’s is Birba, where the menu is seasonal and the ingredients perfectly fresh. This outdoor restaurant has a great story. The owner’s husband’s family is from Italy. When F10 decided to add another restaurant to its portfolio, he said, “I would like a restaurant where we could use my grandmother’s recipes.

The name, Birba, in Italian means “Little Rascal.” It was the name his grandmother called him when he grew up.  Reservations are recommended.

Robert Hunt has been the manager of this hotel since it became Alcazar in 2011. He has watched over every detail of its creation. When the cleanliness of even the courtyard chairs was mentioned, he replied, “I’m a little OCD about keeping this place immaculate, sometimes to the despair of my team.”

Eleven years is a long time for a hotel manager to be in one place; the obvious question was, “What has kept you here so long?” He said, with a broad smile, “We realize we have to change with time. I am a fortunate person to make creative suggestions, and once approved, I am the one to implement them. Besides, gesturing his hands to the beautifully serene courtyard, “Can you think of a better workplace than this?”

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The Design That Launched a Career

He’s been called the “Desert Maverick” who brought “Fifth Avenue to the desert,” and the project that put him on the map was the Del Marcos Hotel.

The Del Marcos, built in 1947, was architect William F. Cody’s first independent commission in Palm Springs. He was destined for this career — his mother was an interior designer, and during his childhood, they would sketch buildings together. In 1946, he left Los Angeles to begin working as the staff architect at the Desert Inn, and just a year later, he was hired to design the Del Marcos.

The Del Marcos Hotel was the project that put William F. Cody on the map.

The modernist Del Marcos, made with stone and redwood, was praised not just by guests, but also Cody’s peers; the Southern California chapter of the American Institute of Architecture honored Cody with a creative design award for the project. From there, his success snowballed — not only did he have an accomplished career in the desert, where he designed L’Horizon, the Palm Springs Public Library, the Thunderbird Country Club, and St. Theresa’s Catholic Church, but Cody was able to leave his mark internationally, coming up with the blueprints for a London apartment building and golf clubs in Cuba and Mexico.

Cody died in 1978, but his legacy lives on at The Del Marcos.

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Boutiquely Palm Springs: Video Tour of Triangle Inn Palm Springs

A screenshot from the Boutiquely Palm Springs video tour of the Triangle Inn Palm Springs

Enjoy this video tour of the men’s clothing optional Triangle Inn Palm Springs with hotelier, Michael Green. This historical mid-century modern resort was originally the Impala Lodge designed by the legendary Hugh Kaptor.

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Monkey Tree Hotel: Vintage Charm in Palm Springs

Blogger Debra Schroeder of Traveling Well for Less found herself captivated by the Albert Frey-designed Monkey Tree Hotel, with its mid-century modern architecture and fun vintage decor.

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The Triangle Inn Owners are Nearing a Milestone Anniversary: 20 Years in Palm Springs

The front entrance of Triangle Inn Palm Springs has a brick wall with its name in large black letters

For Michael Green, the past two decades feel like they’ve gone by in the blink of an eye.

Michael and his husband Stephen Boyd own The Triangle Inn (https://www.palmspringspreferredsmallhotels.com/stay/triangle-inn-palm-springs), a gay men’s clothing-optional resort, having purchased the property in January 2000. They bought the hotel after spending their careers in advertising, embracing the opportunity to try something new. Now, nearly 20 years later, Michael can’t believe they’ve been hoteliers for so long.

Michael and Stephen have created such a welcoming atmosphere that it’s inspired several guests to actually move to Palm Springs.

People often ask them if they’re tired of running their own business, or want to try something new. “To me, as long as we still enjoy it, we should keep doing it,” Michael says. “It’s great owning a small hotel. It’s a lot of work, but it’s also a great lifestyle.”

The Triangle Inn was built in 1958, and Michael and Stephen are its fifth owners. They’ve been through renovations and upgrades, and are always doing something to enhance the property. Along the way, they’ve made tons of friends, and have created such a welcoming atmosphere that it’s inspired several guests to actually move to Palm Springs.

“It’s what happens when people come and fall in love with the hotel, fall in love with the city,” Michael says. “All of a sudden, they think, wow, we need to have a part-time place here, or retire here. That has really been a phenomenon that has fueled a lot of Palm Springs’ resurgence.”
 

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Instagram-able Palm Springs Small Hotels: L’Horizon Resort & Spa

L'Horizon Pool and mountains - Jeff Mindell

Next up in our series of articles on the most Instagram-worthy small hotels in Palm Springs is L’Horizon Resort & Spa.

L'Horizon exterior - Jeff Mindell

In 1952, Jack Wrather, producer of Lassie and The Lone Ranger, wanted a desert retreat for himself and his Hollywood friends. He enlisted prominent modernist architect William F. Cody to create a large property in South Palm Springs featuring 20 separate bungalows that ultimately hosted everyone from Marilyn Monroe to the Nixons during its heyday. More than six decades later, designer Steve Hermann, who has designed homes for clients including Christina Aguilera and Vera Wang, purchased the property and reopened it in July 2015 as L’Horizon Resort & Spa following an extensive renovation and redesign.

L'Horizon Pool and mountains - Jeff Mindell

L'Horizon guest room - Jeff Mindell

Hermann’s design update retained Cody’s signature midcentury architectural elements while infusing modern comforts and luxuries. An al fresco fine dining restaurant called SO.PA was added to the property, as well as a poolside bar and a spa.

L'Horizon Pool Bar - Jeff Mindell

L'Horizon Instagram posts

A blue-tiled infinity pool is the centerpiece of the resort, with guest room bungalows scattered around the property.

L'Horizon Infinity Pool - Jeff Mindell

One bungalow, called the Fireplace Suite, was Marilyn Monroe’s personal bungalow when she stayed with the Wrathers during the 1950s. It features a wood-burning, copper clad fireplace as the centerpiece of the room and opens out onto a private patio.

L'Horizon Bungalow with Fireplace - Jeff Mindell

The ultimate luxury accomodations at L’Horizon can be found in The Residence, which is a nearly 2,000 square foot standalone home with two bedrooms, a full kitchen, living room, sunken wet bar and its own private pool with gorgeous mountain views.

L'Horizon Residence - Jeff Mindell

L'Horizon Residence Pool - Jeff MindellOther Instagram-able details I love at L’Horizon include the black and white multi-patterned design motifs around the property; the ornate starburst front doors; bikes available for guest use during your stay; bocce ball court; hammocks; and the desert landscaping throughout the resort. The property is adults only, but your four-legged friends are welcome!

L'Horizon Front Doors and Bike - Jeff Mindell

L'Horizon Hammock and Bocce- Jeff Mindell L'Horizon Instagram Posts

Stay tuned as we continue to explore other great Instagram-friendly small hotels in Palm Springs in this series of blog posts coming out each month!

 

Images via Jeff Mindell for Palm Springs Style and Instagram.

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