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Once the construction fences went up, curiosity soared about what was being built on South Indian Canyon across from the downtown multilevel parking garage. The wait is over: it’s called Drift Palm Springs, and this boutique hotel is quickly gaining a reputation as a place to stay, relax, or meet up with friends.

Even the Drift Palm Springs sign hints that this is no ordinary hotel. Like all of the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, it has its own vibes.

Welcome to Drift. Photo courtesy of Drift Palm Springs

What makes the Drift Palm Springs stand out?

Its proximity to everything happening in Downtown Palm Springs makes it a great home base while you dine in the area’s restaurants and shop in the many retail stores.

However, what makes the Drift Palm Springs unique from other hotels is its ability to welcome individuals, families, and retreats by easily adjusting the size of the accommodations.

There are 30 rooms, with 84 guest rooms. Confused? So was I. Then Paul Patino, Drift Palm Springs’ general manager, showed me what this meant. Once you unlock the door, you are in a spacious room with a kitchen bathed in light from the floor-to-ceiling windows. Then the magic happens. Paul opened the door to the grand room, and after he unlocked another door, it revealed a bedroom. There is still one more door, and look! It opens into an additional room.

As Paul explains it, this is why the Drift Palm Springs works so well; it can be configured according to your needs. You can reserve a studio or up to four bedrooms with them all connected for your bachelorette party or family reunion.

Bedrooms at Drift are made for relaxing. Photo by Erin Feinblatt

‘Industrial chic’ décor

When walking into the space, my first reaction was that it felt so clean and the energy seemed great. I was drawn to the sliding doors leading to the patio, and there before me was a stunning view of the San Jacinto Mountains.

Back inside, I marveled at the furniture’s simple structure and classy style. It was all oversized yet comfy, with natural colored cushions. Paul shared that the owner, Philip Bates, designed and manufactured the furniture to his specifications. Various raw materials, stone, Italian brick, brass, and cedar wood provided a calming reaction against the tan walls. The term coined by the hotel management, “industrial chic,” fits the style of the décor perfectly.

Meeting space at the hotel is abundant, with areas that are perfect for intimate parties or corporate retreats. One “drawback” for a retreat is that the view out the window is of the beautiful mountains — it might be a bit distracting.

A special outdoor setting

Yes, there is a large pool, lounge chairs, and cabanas. One of the real draws is at night. The lighting is superb, and the fire pits scattered through the area add a special touch. You will want to have a cocktail, sit there, and enjoy the beautiful atmosphere under the desert sky.

A little prediction: I believe this will become a place where you can meet locals. One of the reasons is that the restaurant, Maleza, is open to the public and has a patio area where people can grab a drink after a day of work and enjoy it poolside.

The poolside views are delightful. Photo by Erin Feinblatt

South of the border dining

Maleza is quickly becoming a favorite restaurant in Downtown Palm Springs. If you can’t make it to the Baja Peninsula, here’s a great option.

This rustic restaurant lets you get your fill of Mexican food with the unique twist you look for when traveling down south, and of course you can also get a delicious cocktail made with mezcal, the hot spirit taking the United States by storm.

The bar at Maleza. Photo by Erin Feinblatt

Explore the surroundings

If you want to explore the neighborhood, ask for directions and then hop on one of the bikes available for guests to use. Head over to Old Las Palmas to see some magnificent original homes — this area offers a glimpse into a world that is often missed by visitors.

As a resident, I’m excited to have Drift as a new addition to our community. If you are planning to come to Palm Springs, I suggest you head over to the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website and make your reservation before the word gets out, and you miss an opportunity to be one of the first to visit this special place in the heart of downtown.

When I learned that travel writers Susan Montgomery and Kris Grant were invited to Palm Springs, I gently inched my way into tagging along. I had met Susan on my travels, and she called because she wanted me to meet Kris.

Organizations in town invite travel writers to stay and experience various aspects of Palm Springs. In this case, Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels developed an itinerary for Susan and Kris, so they would have personal experiences and could write authentically without resorting to online research or AI to bring their articles alive. Plus, they can include the small nuances that digital research misses.

An introduction to Palm Springs’ culinary scene

Three women sit at a table inside Azucar Restaurant in Palm Springs, California, with the chef standing next to them

Kris Grant, Kathy Condon, and Susan Montgomery meet Chef Seth at Azucar. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

I was an interloper, but Jose Pembo graciously welcomed us to Azucar at La Serena Villas, making room for three instead of the planned two. We were seated at a table inside that had an unobstructed view of the pool, which serves as the hotel’s centerpiece.

It was a hot day, so I have to say the iced tea was the perfect choice to quench my thirst and begin getting to know the travel writers. Both had been to Palm Springs before and were eager to be updated on the latest news. For example, the Marilyn statue was being moved a short distance to our new beautiful park.

Jose asked if we wanted to order off the menu or let Chef Seth decide what he wanted to serve us. With smiles, the writers said, “Let him decide.” I am so glad they made that decision, otherwise I would never have thought to try Campo Grande Ibérico — rack of pork with roasted shallots on a bed of mostarda sauce. I will be back and will order that entree.

Pro tip: If you are in the area at night, head to Azucar’s rooftop bar, Sugar High, which offers a beautiful view of Palm Springs and its magnificent mountains.

Settling in

The pool at The Lucille Palm Springs with the San Jacinto Mountains in the background

The Lucille recently underwent a total revamp. Photo courtesy of The Lucille

The writers registered at two assigned hotels, The Lucille and The Muse, and later at one of our events, it was fun listening to them describe their very different inns. Since I had never been to either of them, I learned a great deal listening to their descriptions and noticed how happy they were with the hotel choices.

Dining at Freddie’s Kitchen

A sign reading "Freddy's" outside of the restaurant at The Cole in Palm Springs, California

Welcome to Freddie’s. Photo by Kathy Condon

I had read raving reviews of Freddie’s French-like cuisine. The restaurant is connected to The Cole Hotel, a contemporary property embracing the modernism vibe, and I was pleased to be invited by Kimberli Munkres, who planned the travel writers’ itinerary.

Refreshed from a short rest, the writers came in with notebooks open and ready to learn more about Palm Springs. They were surprised that we have 80 small hotels within the city limits. Small hotels are defined as having 49 rooms or less.

It was fun sharing some of the themes of the hotels, such as contemporary with a modernist feel and serene haven perfect for meditation without televisions or radios.

Chef Freddy kept us captivated with his stories and explanations about the food he prepared for us. We appreciated the French twist on the dishes and now know why this often-overlooked restaurant is gaining momentum with Palm Springs foodies.

A night at Sparrows Lodge

A flame dances in the night in a fire pit at Sparrows Lodge in Palm Springs, California

Fire pits keep you warm and toasty at Sparrows Lodge. Photo courtesy of Kathy Condon

The Sparrows Lodge is an exceptional place, and many residents of Palm Springs are unaware of the beautiful attributes of this property. When driving on South Palm Canyon Drive, look for the white line graphic sign with two sparrows, nothing more.

We settled in for dinner at The Barn Kitchen, where our conversation was lively. The staff seemed to anticipate our every need. It was one of those evenings you didn’t want to end. The weather was perfect, the atmosphere was superb, and I had probably the best dessert ever: passion fruit, chocolate mousse, and coconut crumble.

After dinner, I asked a staff member if the writers could see a room. They graciously said yes, and I smiled as they marveled at the very unusual room décor. For example, a tall stone wall provides a refuge for a bath in a former water trough. I will leave the rest for you to explore when you stay here. Sparrows Lodge recently received the Michelin Key, a new category recognizing hotels.

Alas, it was time to say goodbye to these two delightful women. It was terrific reversing my role, helping others understand our community instead of being the one exploring. Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels provided an excellent, not overstuffed itinerary so they could slowly and thoughtfully absorb the many attributes of our restaurants and hotels here in Palm Springs.

Lucille Palm Springs is ready for its closeup after undergoing a recent re-imagination in Spanish Revival style.

Formerly known as The Andalusian Court, Lucille Palm Springs’ new name is a nod to one of its most famous guests, actress and comedienne Lucille Ball and her husband, actor and bandleader Desi Arnaz, who were regulars at the property.

Originally built in 1921, this boutique hotel has long been a place where people go to escape with its lush and tranquil surroundings, and Manager Alfredo Izaguirre has committed to making Lucille Palm Springs “the place to stay when one visits Palm Springs for relaxation.”

A new vision for a historic property

The open fireplace with candles in it inside the living room area of a villa at The Lucille Palm Springs

You won’t want to leave your cozy bungalow at The Lucille. Photo courtesy of The Lucille Palm Springs

Ownership of the property changed hands in June 2023 and renovations on the hotel’s bungalow suites and rooms began in the summer.  All accommodations now feature luxurious king-sized pillow-top Stearns & Foster or Sealy Posturepedic mattresses, Frette linens, Samsung 43″ Frame Art televisions, Nespresso coffee machines and pods, and custom lavender-scented toiletries from local spa Grounded Bodyworks. The one-bedroom and two-bedroom bungalows also have impressive kitchenettes that are stocked with all of the essentials for a home cooked meal.

Each space at the property has a unique and distinctive look with unparalleled privacy. At the same time, the original charm of this historic hotel has been maintained, including such beloved features as the private outdoor jacuzzi tubs. 

“To those who have stayed with us before and to new guests, be prepared for a beautifully updated and extremely well-curated luxurious experience,” Alfredo said.

Guest-approved amenities

The outside of the lobby at The Lucille Palm Springs with colorful tile and windows

The Lucille Palm Springs has beautiful tile work throughout the property. Photo courtesy of The Lucille Palm Springs

Lucille Palm Springs’ well-appointed bungalows and rooms come with complimentary beverages and poolside breakfast, including cappuccinos, lattes, and locally-made pastries. The staff is ready at all times to answer any questions about Pam Springs or guide guests to the best hiking trails, shopping, art walks, and restaurants. 

“We offer a higher level of personalized customer service,” Alfredo said. “We want our guests to feel like they are with friends or family members.”

A private patio with outdoor tub surrounded by greenery at the Lucille boutique hotel in Palm Springs, California

Bungalows come with private patios and outdoor tubs. Photo courtesy of The Lucille Palm Springs

Recently we took our sweet cocker spaniel, Fender, on a short trip to Palm Springs. It was a beautiful afternoon when we arrived at the so aptly named Azure Sky, one of the most recently renovated Palm Springs Small Preferred Hotels. Yes, the sky and enticing pool were both sparkling azure when we arrived at this stunning boutique hotel. 

The grounds are lushly landscaped with blooming native plants and palm trees that help create a tranquil getaway in the middle of the desert, but Azure Sky is also still ideally located in the heart of Palm Springs. Here you can have it all — a peaceful hideaway that is still close to the activities and restaurants that attract so many visitors to Palm Springs.

As we entered the hotel grounds, we were especially impressed by the striking, steel entryway gate, which introduces guests to the innovative contemporary design of the hotel.

The pool area of Azure Sky. Photo courtesy of Azure Sky

This hotel was originally built in 1959 and was a timeshare and then apartments for many years. In June, an extensive two-year renovation was completed, resulting in a stylish retreat featuring wood and stone with an emphasis on natural light. The hotel has a modern vibe while still retaining its original mid-century charm that is so characteristic of Palm Springs. There are only 14 rooms so you almost feel as if you are staying in your own personal, private retreat — and since this property caters to adults, you can expect peace and quiet.

We were warmly welcomed in the chic, inviting lobby with a refreshing cocktail, and Fender was even greeted with a little doggie bag holding a special healthy treat, which he eagerly devoured. It is so nice to be able to visit such a wonderful hotel that is also dog friendly.  

We were then shown to the Agave Suite, which was spacious and comfortable. Our room included a lovely living room with a kitchenette and a separate comfy bedroom with a unique floating wooden bed featuring linens that were as soft as clouds — just like the clouds in the azure sky. We also enjoyed the outdoor private patio connected to our room. There are four different room configurations at different price points.

An Azure Sky bedroom. Photo courtesy of Azure Sky

This suite included almost every amenity possible except a TV, which we did not miss at all. It was nice to tune out the news of the day and enjoy our quiet retreat. The soothing palate of subdued colors enhanced the serenity of our room; even our dog was ready to curl up and take a snooze. There were bottles of cocktail mixes to purchase in our room so we enjoyed drinks as we embraced the restful atmosphere. My husband and I agreed that Azure Sky provided a much-welcomed escape from our busy, daily lives.

The luxurious courtyard with spectacular views of the dramatic San Jacinto Mountains offers guests ample outdoor areas for relaxing and contemplating life. Guests can gather around one of the two fire pits for pleasant conversation or quiet reflection. The expansive terrace surrounding the pool had plenty of lounge chairs and is another ideal place to relax after a refreshing swim or dip in the warm waters of the jacuzzi. Azure Sky is truly an enchanting getaway designed with the comfort of guests in mind. 

The inviting pool at Azure Sky. Photo by Todd Montgomery

After relaxing in our room, our only decision was where to go for dinner. So we adjourned to the comfortable Azure Sky lobby lounge and warmed ourselves in front of the fire crackling in the fireplace while we savored a cocktail and considered our dinner options. Of course Palm Springs offers many superb restaurants, but we found ourselves enjoying the ambiance of Azure Sky so much that we were reluctant to venture out for dinner. Instead, we ordered a pizza (which was delivered right to the lobby) and talked with a few of the other friendly Azure Sky guests while we nibbled and sipped. We met two pleasant young women from Paris who had been traveling around Southern California on business and they were also genuinely impressed with the upscale charm of Azure Sky.

Susan Montgomery and Fender enjoy Azure Sky. Photo by Todd Montgomery

Azure Sky offers a complimentary continental breakfast and freshly brewed coffee every morning, which helped us launch our day ahead in Palm Springs. We learned that the hotel is also the perfect venue for weddings and other special occasions. Sometimes all the rooms are sold out for events so that guests can have the entire property to themselves.

By the way, while we were in Palm Springs we had a delightful lunch with a friend at another PSPSH property, La Serena Villas, where the much celebrated restaurant, Azúcar, is located. We dined on delicious swordfish tacos, scrumptious chicken lettuce wraps, and a shrimp cocktail while we sipped the restaurant’s special margarita called the Rosearita, which is made with tequila, rose liqueur, and agave nectar. Azúcar’s outdoor patio setting around the La Serena Villas pool captures the quintessential relaxing spirit of Palm Springs. Our friendly restaurant server even brought Fender a bowl of water. We’ve learned that dogs are generally very welcome in Palm Springs.

The Rosearita. Photo by Todd Montgomery

We could not have had a more perfect day and of course we ended it at Azure Sky, which truly is over the top and quickly became our home away from home. We will be back — and so will Fender who loved Azure Sky as much as we did!

Spring is in the air, and our indigo-colored cloudless sky is showing off our area at its best. Now is a great time to seek out some of the unique attractions a short drive away from Palm Springs.

Cabot’s Pueblo Museum showcases Coachella Valley’s history 

Buildings at Cabot's Pueblo Museum in Desert Hot Springs

Cabot’s Pueblo Museum. Photo by Kathy Condon

A short 12 miles from downtown Palm Springs is Cabot’s Pueblo Museum, where you can learn about the history of the Coachella Valley. Cabot Yerxa was a homesteader in Desert Hot Springs who called the Agua Caliente tribe his friends. He admired their culture, and when members of the tribe showed him where there were hot springs, he started building a home nearby. 

Yerxa continued adding to the adobe home during his lifetime, and today, you can take a guided or self-guided tour of the property. The house includes wonderful collections of Native American artifacts, and the grounds allow you to get up close to desert fauna.

The house has an admission fee, though you can walk the grounds for free. Plus, they have an outstanding gift shop with art and a collection of history books about the area.

The Integratron in Landers 

The white domed Integratron in Landers, California, with two women in front of it and a palm tree

The Integration in Landers. Photo by Kathy Condon

If you have never had a sound bath, I suggest you make reservations (in advance) at the Integratron in Landers, 50 miles from downtown Palm Springs. Here you will also see Joshua trees and massive boulders and experience the beauty of our mountains.

The parking lot is surrounded by a wall that will immediately catch your attention because it is covered with colorful art. I suggest coming at least an hour before your reservation because the yard surrounding the building is filled with hammocks and art that will make you smile.

The Integratron is considered one of the top acoustically built buildings in the world. Several singing bowls are played for 15 minutes, interspersed with classical music that helps the sound feel like it is reaching the marrow of your bones. After the sound bath, head to one of the hammocks and enjoy the calmness of your body and the surroundings.

Salvation Mountain near the Salton Sea 

Paint on a rock and a giant cross on the top of Salvation Mountain

Salvation Mountain. Photo by Kathy Condon

East of the Salton Sea and a 90-minute drive from Palm Springs, Salvation Mountain will keep you entertained as you ascend steps and literally head inside this immense attraction. Leonard Knight constructed the monument, a form of “outsider art,” as a tribute to God, but it is not just for religiously inclined visitors. I found it fascinating wandering through the tunnels and viewing the giant painted trees and flowers that grace the walls of the mountain. It is 50 feet high and 150 feet long and was made with adobe clay and donated paint.

The International Banana Museum is a fun stop on the way to Salvation Mountain or back. Be sure to check the hours in advance, because they don’t keep a traditional schedule.

Cabazon Dinosaurs 

The giant pink dinosaur in Cabazon, California, with the T-Rex behind it

The Cabazon Dinosaurs. Photo by Tony Mataras

Many visitors to Palm Springs end up at the Desert Hills Premium Outlets and Cabazon Outlets. Here, you’ll find retail stores from some of the most prominent designers in the world, like Prada and Gucci.

While you’re out that way, stop and meet Dinny and Mr. Rex. They became famous by starring in the movie Pee-wee’s Big AdventureClaude Bel began creating the sculptures in 1965 to attract people to his restaurant, and they were finally finished in 1986, just two years before Bel died. The dinosaurs were sold and today, they are an excellent place for photos, especially if you come for a holiday — they get fresh coats of paint and will soon have on their Easter apparel. If you don’t have time to stop, look for them on your way to the outlets while traveling west on Interstate 10.

Graffiti Park in downtown Palm Springs 

Graffiti on concrete barriers with palm trees in the background at the Graffiti Park in Palm Springs, California

Graffiti Park. Photo by Kathy Condon

These stops don’t involve a long drive — they are right in the heart of Palm Springs. Once you’ve taken photos with the larger-than-life Marilyn statue near the Palm Springs Art Museum, take a stroll through the city’s new park. There is still no official name for the park, but there is a groundswell of support for having it named after Nellie Coffman, who was instrumental in building Palm Springs as a resort town and welcoming Hollywood stars to her Desert Inn.

Across the street is the Graffiti Park, where various forms of the art can be found throughout the sandlot. Wander around and read the words or stop and try to guess what the artists are saying in their original designs. If you have some paint in your bag, you are welcome to add your design.

Graffiti Park is a fun place to visit any time of the day, and is a great spot to take photos since it’s colorful and captures the city’s vibes.

Picking a home base in Palm Springs

If you’re flying into Palm Springs, consider booking a rental car for at least part of your stay so you can visit these unique attractions. If you’re still looking for a boutique hotel, click around the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to find the property that best suits your needs. Book soon — there’s a lot coming up in the next few months, including the BNP Paribas Open and the Coachella and Stagecoach music festivals.

Jazz Hotel Palm Springs stands out with its sleek design and chic decor.

Owner Annick Laberge has filled this mid-century modern property, formerly known as The Cheetah Hotel, with black and white furniture and original artwork, as well as surprise pops of color. While people might think the dog-friendly hotel’s new name is a nod to the musical genre, it was actually inspired by someone close to Annick.

“Jazz is my white Pomeranian dog,” Annick said. “He’s all white with black eyes and a black nose, and the whole hotel is white with a little bit of black. I like the name too because it’s easy so people don’t forget it.”

A gilded mirror leans against a white wall next to a small table in a room at Jazz Hotel in Palm Springs, California

A gilded mirror stands out in a clean and sleek Jazz Hotel Palm Springs room. Photo courtesy of Jazz Hotel Palm Springs

Annick has spent the last decade working with her father in real estate, managing apartments and investing in buildings in Canada. She fell in love with Palm Springs during visits to Southern California, and found that “there’s something about the desert that speaks to me personally.” When the opportunity came to purchase the Cheetah Hotel in the spring of 2023, Annick was drawn to its “good bones and good location,” and was excited to “put my stamp on it and do a redesign and rebrand with my sister.”

Guests often comment on how much they enjoy the hotel’s spot on a cul-de-sac, where you can’t hear the traffic and can get a good night’s sleep.

“It’s laid-back and quiet, and some people say it’s off the beaten path and a hidden gem,” Annick said. “We’re aiming to be a nice place for people to come to that’s close to downtown Palm Springs, so if they want more action they can go to the restaurants and parties just five minutes away.”

The pool at Jazz Hotel surrounded by fringed umbrellas and lounge chairs with a white ring float in the water and palms and San Jacinto Mountains in the background

The pool at Jazz Hotel is a centerpiece of the property. Photo courtesy of Jazz Hotel Palm Springs

Twin Palms Resort is Palm Springs’ newest kid on the block. 

An upscale boutique hotel, Twin Palms is a brother property to the Santiago and Descanso. This trio of remarkable resorts offer gay men a gorgeous selection of naturally chic, swimsuit-optional retreats right in the heart of Palm Springs, and having now experienced all three properties myself, I can happily say “the third time’s a charm” with Twin Palms Resort.

Welcome to Twin Palms Resort. Photo by Gregory Douglass

Santiago was my first experience at a men’s resort in Palm Springs, back in 2018. As a 40-year-old gay man living in Los Angeles at the time, I’d never felt such freedom and restoration from a long weekend away from my big-city life. It was a game-changing experience for me.

I was curious how the other men-only resorts here in the Coachella Valley compared to the distinguishable Santiago experience. “How different can they all be?” I wondered. Having now experienced the majority of gay hotels here, it’s a privilege to be writing about what a spectrum of enticing options we have — each with its own flavor, vibe, and healing benefits.

The modern clubhouse. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

Twin Palms Resort is no different from its brother properties when it comes to top-notch luxury and leisure. The “casually extravagant” experience is what many have come to expect from a Resorts Palm Springs property, and yet Twin Palms already has a distinct personality of its own. Santiago has a modern Spanish aesthetic, while Descanso boasts a “California garden patio” motif. Twin Palms is the first to celebrate a true mid-century modern concept inside and out.

Nested in Palm Springs’ first modernist neighborhood, Twin Palms Estates, the resort looks as timeless as it does fresh in style, with its pops of yellows, blues, and greens. These colors accent that classic, clean white modernism style that makes Palm Springs architecture so iconic. It might even rival the hotel’s historic start — opened in 1959 as the Brentwood Apartments, the property was originally developed to blend in with the neighborhood’s 90 modernist tract homes, designed by one of the founding fathers of Palm Springs modernism, William Krisel.

Hotel guests can use these bikes to tool around town. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

What really makes Twin Palms Resort unique is its communal layout. The perfectly heated saltwater swimming pool acts as a centerpiece to its 20 single-story guest rooms, yellow umbrellas, and chaise lounges that all wrap around the pool like a rainbow. The 12-man spa is just as welcoming as the luxurious patio space, which faces a breathtaking view of the San Jacinto Mountains.

You have to love those mountain views. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

Like Santiago and Descanso, the Twin Palms experience also includes a hip clubhouse guest lounge, a communal fire pit, an outdoor mist cooling system, a 24-hour canteen with complimentary beverages, a daily complimentary continental breakfast, and complimentary poolside lunch.

You can expect the same level of guest service as well from Twin Palms’ friendly staff, and in-room welcome amenities too. Some highlights include beautiful modern gay artwork, a resort texting hotline for direct communication with the staff, lamps with charging stations, luxurious heavy-weight bathrobes, some fun “adult goodies” in the drawer of each bedside table, and even a personalized welcome note upon your arrival.

A plush king room at Twin Palms. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

In addition to an outdoor shower and pool bathroom communal showers, every room features grand marble bathrooms with spacious walk-in glass showers, sporting both rain and handheld shower heads – lending even more community appeal to the place.

The outdoor shower is one perk of staying at Twin Palms. Photo by Gregory Douglass

Twin Palms Resort is also as earth-friendly as it is gay-friendly, offering off-street guest parking with four electric vehicle chargers, sustainable bath products from Public Goods, and even bicycles you can borrow to explore the neighborhood.

It’s easy enough to retreat from the community as well. Every room features remote lighting and window shades, as well as private rear patios. Even the mini-fridge is tucked away in the bathroom vanity, which I thought was a clever decision.

The author enjoying his room at the Twin Palms. Photo by Gregory Douglass

What makes the communal aspect of Twin Palms Resort so special is its potential for new friends and new connections to be made. In an environment somehow as nonchalant as it is enveloping, it was seamless to connect with fellow guests and then naturally go our separate ways. 

I’ve learned that every resort has a “scene” of its own. Time will tell what the Twin Palms scene is — but the stage is set for all sorts of possibilities. I suspect it will help spark a long line of lasting friendships that will all begin at the charming little gay hotel in Twin Palms Estates.

Unwind in the resort’s pool and spa. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort

Near downtown Palm Springs, California, the Korakia Pensione quietly reveals itself on South Patencio Road. 

As someone who lives in Palm Springs, even I was surprised this pensione — meaning a small hotel — was unknown to me until I discovered it through the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website. 

Korakia is pronounced kor-a-kee-a. The name comes from the Greek word for “crow,” a bird abundant in the mountains of Greece. The hotel’s original name was Dar Marroc, but when Doug Smith, of Greek descent, became the owner in the late 1980s, he changed the name to Korakia Pensione. 

Once you enter the grounds, you will instantly see why Smith felt at home here. Olive trees surround the Moroccan-style architecture, and flowering bougainvillea winds its way up the beautiful arches. When painter Gordon Coutts built the property in 1924 as a hideaway, he brought with him décor reminiscent of his life in Tangier. 

The Marrakech Suite. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

Three-tier fountains grace the courtyard, and a spacious pool is heated to 94 degrees. Yes, you read it right. One of the luxurious amenities is the ability to swim in the middle of the winter under our beautiful Palm Springs starlit sky. 

After a swim, wrap yourself in a robe then find your way to one of the property’s many fire pits. People come here from all over the world, and you’re bound to find yourself sharing stories with other guests.

An extension of the inn

The silent screen actress J. Carol Naish owned the villa across the street from Coutts’ property, and after it was purchased in 1933, it became part of the pensione. The Mediterranean-style buildings and grounds have seamlessly been combined, offering 28 rooms on more than two acres. 

The Naish House. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

The courtyard serves many purposes

Surrounded by olive and fruit trees, the courtyard is the place to be for guests when it’s time to enjoy the breakfast provided by the pensione. Small tables allow you to have your coffee alone, or if you want to join others, moving tables is not a problem, so you can have robust conversations if you desire. 

Then in the afternoon, a lovely tea is served to guests, still providing another opportunity if you choose to engage in conversation with others. 

Tea is served. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

A recent addition to the hotel’s offerings is a Moroccan dinner catered by Eight4Nine, a popular local restaurant. Its success has even caught the staff off guard, so you will want to check their schedule and make reservations if you are in the area when this special evening is offered (which, at the time of writing this article, is once a month). 

Rent the venue for…

A corporate retreat

Recently, the entire space was rented for a corporate retreat — those were some lucky employees, though it may have been a tad hard to concentrate knowing there is a heated pool steps away. There are plenty of spaces for people to scatter during breaks or even to play bocce ball. Later in the evening, join colleagues around the firepit to watch a classic or foreign film on the outdoor screen.

Outdoor movie screenings are a benefit of staying at Korakia. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

To ensure you have the team’s full attention for the retreat, there is no WiFi, TV, or clocks to distract from the task at hand. This is a resort that believes if you want to refresh and renew, technology needs to be left behind.

Weddings

Are you planning a desert wedding? One spot that should be moved to the top of your list is the Korakia. The courtyard, already surrounded by olive trees and bougainvillea, is turned into a magical place, with more flowers added to the arched doors. You now have the perfect backdrop for your vows. 

Cocktail hour is by the fountain, which welcomes guests with rushing water. All around the pool, your friends and family can mingle and share stories about how your life touched theirs. 

The perfect wedding backdrop. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

The celebration doesn’t stop there. A short walk across the quiet street to the other section of the pensione brings you down a path set aglow with lanterns and candles to still another courtyard for your reception. This flat space is perfect for your festive tables. 

I love the idea of your cake on a small table near the firepit. Imagine the effect created in your photos, so the glow reflects in the nighttime sky as you cut your cake together. 

Photo shoots

If you want to do a Mediterranean photo shoot without the expense of flying to Europe, Korakia Pensione can fill that need. Remember, we talked about the olive trees and fountains, and oh yes, they have a spa too, which lends itself to luxury photos. 

Family reunions

I can only imagine getting an announcement from a relative that it’s been decided our next get together will be at the Korakia. Some caveats: children under 13 are not allowed at the resort, and your beloved dog must find another place to vacation.

An authentic experience

I recently interviewed Korakia General Manager Paulette Monarrez, and as our conversation was coming to a close, I asked how long she had been involved with the hotel. Her smile broadened as she said, “15 years.” I then asked what she was most proud of in her work here, and without a beat, she responded, “We have an all-women staff. Also, I appreciate that so much care has been given to preserving the buildings. Plus, authentic Moroccan and Mediterranean artwork in the rooms and throughout the grounds adds a special touch to the Korakia.”

Walking away, I smiled to myself. Touring one of our Palm Springs boutique hotels is always rewarding because they are all so different. My suggestion: Use the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to pick out your winter destination and call the hotel directly — they can assist in making the perfect accommodations for your desert stay. 

One of the hotel’s many fire pits. Photo courtesy of Korakia Pensione

Coachella may be the name on everyone’s lips, but Stagecoach is growing by leaps and bounds. The older fan base is now being joined by Gen Z — after all, good music is good music, am I right? Not to mention, back in 2008 Taylor Swift was on the main stage. That was 16 years ago (I did the math), before she crossed over to pop and goddess status. This year they’ve got Jelly Roll, Willie Nelson, Post Malone, Morgan Wallen, and Miranda Lambert — just five of the 19 performers set to play.

Smaller than Coachella with fewer guy vs. flip flop moments, the Stagecoach Festival is 100 percent about the music, not the celebrities who attend. Because it is smaller than Coachella, traffic won’t be as intense, so you can make it a full-on Old West vibe by staying at one of our historic Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels and resorts and enjoy the best of two worlds.

With traffic, it might take an hour to get to the festival and park, but considering it took me an hour to drive to the Hollywood Bowl and 20 minutes to walk from my L.A. apartment, that’s a breeze. If you’re planning on doing some drinking while you’re there, no problem. We have Uber, Lyft, and Xpress Shuttles, a private shuttle service, all great options so you can keep your license. 

Palm Springs hotels with Stagecoach vibes

Stagecoach is only two months away, so let’s get those rooms booked, shall we? Here’s a roundup of fabulous properties to enhance your Stagecoach experience:

The pool surrounded by lounge chairs at Old Ranch Inn in Palm Springs, California

A sparkling pool awaits at the Old Ranch Inn. Photo courtesy of Old Ranch Inn

Old Ranch Inn — Eight luxurious rooms, Old West feel, new west luxury. Kitchenettes. From their website: “Old Ranch Inn sits in the heart of the historic Tennis Club area and is steps away from the downtown Palm Springs village. The Tennis Club area has a long and fascinating history with Hollywood celebrities, politicians, statesmen, and infamous world travelers who made Palm Springs their personal desert hideaway.”

A quaint bungalow with a tile roof at Casa Cody boutique hotel in Palm Springs, California

Casa Cody is the oldest standing inn in Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of Casa Cody

Casa Cody — Built in the 1930s, Casa Cody is the oldest standing inn in Palm Springs. Rich in history with gorgeous grounds, it’s a wonderful place to rejuvenate after a day of party. Centrally located and just steps away from downtown Palm Springs, all the great restaurants are walkable, yet your nights will be peaceful and quiet.

Coyote Inn's courtyard with palms and potted cacti

The Coyote Inn’s peaceful courtyard is always open to guests. Photo courtesy of Coyote Inn

Coyote Inn — Fireplace, hot tub, kitchenettes, walled and gated for ultimate privacy. Construction was in 1953, old Spanish Mission style. With seven rooms it’s your own little hideaway. It’s absolutely adorable.

The exterior of Hotel California in Palm Springs, California, with a palm tree in front of it

Welcome to the Hotel California. Photo courtesy of Hotel California

Hotel California — Unlike the hotel in the song, you can absolutely leave. The question is, why would you want to? You’ll have to peel yourself away from the rustic quaintness. Sparkling pool, all the peace. On the south end of Palm Springs, walk to Elmers, Mr. Lyons, Gigi’s, El Mirasol, and So•Pa (if you’re very fancy). 

The outside of the lobby at The Lucille Palm Springs with colorful tile and windows

The Lucille Palm Springs has beautiful tile work throughout the property. Photo courtesy of The Lucille Palm Springs

Lucille Palm Springs — Built in 1921, reimagined in 2024, its stark white exterior is kinda Santorini in Palm Springs but instead of the ocean you get a big gorgeous pool and kitchenettes. Named in honor of Lucille Ball, a longtime fan of the property back in the day.

The white building welcoming guests to the Yara Hotel in Palm Springs, California

Yara Hotel is one of the newest boutique hotels to open in Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of Yara Hotel

Yara Hotel — Some call it Spanish but to me it’s Moroccan with nice splashes of modern. Another smaller hotel, rent all 10 rooms and get the place to yourself. It’s pretty cool.

Black Adirondack chairs surround the blazing fire pit during an evening at Hotel El Cid in Palm Springs

Gather round the fire pit for an unforgettable desert night. Photo courtesy of Hotel El Cid

Hotel El Cid — From their website: “We designed El Cid to accommodate only one select group at a time. Six completely new, bungalow style units (a total of seven bedrooms and seven bathrooms) offer polished concrete floors, lots of leather and reclaimed wood, and a fun, California boho style. Most units offer living and dining areas and kitchenettes with wine fridges. All have fast internet and extra large 4K TVs.”

If you haven’t gotten your Stagecoach tix yet, you can use that link I just gave you. And if they’re sold out by the time you read this, then just come visit Palm Springs for a spell. Stagecoach isn’t the only party in town! 

Tickets are on sale for Modernism Week October, the mini version of arguably the biggest event in Palm Springs (the other contender being Pride). It’s a mere two months away, and tickets for the mack daddy in February will be on sale soon. If the ring-a-ding-ding of the 1950s and 1960s is your Roman Empire, this event is for you. 

The best thing you can do for the most authentic stay is book one of our mid-century modern hotels. Some are remodeled and meticulously redressed in the fashion of the day, some are the homes of former movie stars, and some have been operating since Palm Springs was a wee village with a dream. 

Every year the event outdoes the last, not only in attendance but in unique opportunities to tour vintage homes, take bus tours on a double decker, enjoy themed, live entertainment, and attend talks by experts in the mid-mod world of architecture. You can also see some rare home movies presented by Deserted Films.  

It’s a pick your own adventure on the daily, but home base requires the most thought. It should not only set the mood but provide all the amenities you need for a stellar experience. 

These hotels are all downtown or within walking distance to base camp, but far enough away from the happening crowd because … personal space. All are exquisite, and great options for the perfect vacation to relive the past. Also, make sure to check to see if your hotel has loyalty rewards. If this is your first visit to Palm Springs, you likely don’t know it yet, but you’ll be back, and those rewards will come in handy.

Let’s go!

Palm Springs boutique hotels for Modernism Week

The Orbit In's pool is surrounded by plants and lights after dark

The Orbit In at dusk. Photo credit: Visit Palm Springs

Orbit In — This hotel is the definition of mid-mod squee. Even the manager dresses in 1950s/1960s style. It feels so authentic (because it is, it’s on the Modernism bus tour) that you can imagine a record player spinning, and girls in beehives and miniskirts dancing with guys in suits with skinny ties, mopheads, and sunglasses. It’s located in the Historic Tennis Club Neighborhood, and everything downtown is walkable from there.

The stone front of Del Marcos Hotel with orange doors

Welcome to The Del Marcos Hotel. Photo courtesy of The Del Marcos Hotel

Del Marcos — On the way to Historic Tennis Club (that’s west of downtown, toward the mountains), this boutique gem is also on the Modernism bus tour. William Cody’s architecture immediately grabs you with its distinct look: tall glass windows that peek into the pool area. Well-appointed rooms, and a great pool.

Mid-century modern furnishings inside the King Suite at Desert Hills Resort Hotel in Palm Springs, California

Mid-century modern furnishings inside the King Suite at Desert Hills Resort. Photo courtesy of Desert Hills Resort

Desert Hills Resort — The tennis district is taking the third gold with another hotel on Arenas. All the rooms at Desert Hills Resort either look out on the pool or the fountain, and they also have kitchenettes available. It’s about four blocks from Palm Canyon (the main strip).

A pool with loungers and palm trees in the background

The Three Fifty Hotel was designed by Herbert W. Burns. Photo courtesy of The Three Fifty Hotel

The Three Fifty Hotel — Herbert Burns was a self-taught architect who built a great deal of the properties along the west end of Arenas. This hotel is located a little closer to downtown, across from La Serena Villas on Belardo. A 10-room property that is pet friendly, if you’re driving in with a group and your pups, you can buy out the hotel. Super cute.

Blue umbrellas and palms surround the large pool at Holiday House in Palm Springs, California

The Herbert Burns-designed Holiday House opened in 1951. Photo courtesy of Holiday House

Holiday House — Also on Belardo, this boutique hotel not only has the mid-mod look you’re going for, but they also have Chef Jon Butler, who has worked at top spots including Noma in Copenhagen, République in L.A, and is now the mastermind behind Holiday House and their sister property, Sparrows Lodge.

That’s the rundown for a fully authentic Modernism Week. Of course there are other hotels in our arsenal — Palm Springs has over 70 small boutique hotels — but these are for those who want to be close to camp, and the bus tours. I can’t stress enough: BOOK NOW. Tickets are like a keg at a frat party, tap it and it’s gone 15 minutes later. 

Don’t forget to pack all of your mid-mod clothing – everyone else will be dressed accordingly.

As Frank Sinatra crooned so long ago, “When the steeple bell says, ‘good night, sleep well,’ we’ll thank the small hotel together.”