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Receiving The Royal Treatment At Villa Royale

In need of a respite from daily life, we recently decided to visit Palm Springs with our dog, Fender. Not only did we want to stay at a dog-friendly hotel, but we were looking for a secluded setting with a nostalgic vibe, a wonderful pool for dipping and lounging, and a top-notch restaurant and bar. We found all this and more at Villa Royale, a beautiful hideaway — perfect for getting away in stylish comfort. 

Villa Royale, one of the first small hotels in Palm Springs, was built in 1947 with the Hollywood elite in mind. For many years, it was a sanctuary for celebrities who wanted to escape their hectic lives in Los Angeles, only two hours away. Several years ago, the hotel underwent a complete renovation, which fortunately retained the historic, mid-century charm of the original hotel. Today it is still an appealing popular retreat, not just for the rich and famous but for anyone seeking peace and tranquility in a lovely setting, highlighted by a stunning mountain backdrop.

In the cozy lobby, we checked in and were happy to be welcomed with a delightful cocktail. As we walked to our villa, we were thrilled to see not just one inviting pool surrounded by lounge chairs, but three. There are 38 villas at Villa Royale, each with its own unique mid-century modern character and design. We learned that the property has more than 50 pieces of original art commissioned for the hotel, with one in each room.

Our inviting room at the Villa Royale. Photo by Todd Montgomery

Our very nicely furnished room facing the serene pool was a haven for us and our dog, with a private landscaped back patio, luxurious bedding, and a wonderful walk-in shower. We were happy to learn that we could enjoy fresh coffee and a continental buffet in the morning. 

Welcome to the Del Rey. Photo by Todd Montgomery

In the evening, we were excited to be dining at Villa Royale’s upscale, popular restaurant, Del Rey, which specializes in tapas and small plates with a Spanish/Mediterranean flair. The menu is overseen by much celebrated Chef Louis Martinez. Since our dog was with us, we sat outside on the restaurant’s pleasant, inviting patio. It was a lovely but chilly night; however, we were warm and comfortable because of the very effective heating lamps strategically placed by our table. There was a wedding party dining nearby and, like us, they seemed happy and relaxed. We also checked out the inside of the restaurant which is romantic and intimate, with dim lighting and cozy tables. The restaurant features an inviting oak and marble bar where I would like to while away a few convivial hours someday. 

The inviting fireplace inside the Del Rey. Photo by Todd Montgomery

Del Rey offers a variety of enticing cocktails. We enjoyed a unique and surprisingly delicious Del Rey Martini made with touches of sherry, orange bitters, and olive oil (yes, olive oil). We also relished the El Ultimo cocktail made with strawberry tequila, absinthe, and orgeat syrup, served with lime and mint. In addition, Del Rey offers a full wine list, featuring Spanish wines. Fender was happy with his drink, too, when the helpful staff brought him a bowl of fresh water.

Then, in the Spanish tradition, we ordered a variety of tapas for our dinner. I love this kind of meal because you can sample small bites of a variety of dishes.  We really enjoyed the Basque asparagus, topped with romesco sauce and manchego, and also savored albondigas — beef and pork meatballs covered with a sweet and sour glaze. 

We loved the Chuleta de Cordero, rosemary and lemon marinated lamb chops, which were tender and full of flavor.  Another superb dish was a grilled flatbread called Pan Con Setas that was topped with mushrooms, manchego, red onion, and an herbed olive oil drizzle. For dessert, we savored the delectable walnut bread pudding. The friendly service at Del Rey was impeccable and added to the ambiance of the evening. Satiated, we sauntered back to our villa through the lushly landscaped courtyards with flowing fountains and pools that shimmered invitingly in the moonlight.

The delicious walnut bread pudding. Photo by Todd Montgomery

It was truly a special night and we felt very far away from our busy daily lives. It is surprising how relaxed you can become with just a night away in such a peaceful, glorious retreat. We may not be celebrities, but we felt like royalty at Villa Royale. 

The Villa Royale lights up at night. Photo by Todd Montgomery

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We’re SO Gay

“Too much of a good thing is wonderful.” — Liberace

When you Google “best gay cities,” my results did not include one single listicle mentioning Palm Springs. What? People, our entire city council is LGBTQIA, and from Wikipedia’s entry for Gay Village: “An estimated 33 to 50 percent of Palm Springs, California, are gay male or other parts of the LGBTQ community; this statistic makes them the largest percentage community in the US.”

In 2016, Palm Springs received a final score of 100 points in the Human Rights Campaign’s Municipal Equality Index Scorecard. Our city exceeded the highest possible final score of 100 with a raw score of 109, and we’ve kept that score through their last report of 2020.

Speaking of the ’20s, 100 years ago, Palm Springs began its journey as a playground for celebrities and the LGBTQ+ community thanks to Dr. Florilla White and her sister Cornelia. The two “independent and eccentric women” (code: lesbian) purchased the Palm Springs Hotel and spiffed it up a bit. Rudolph Valentino spent his second honeymoon there (it was escandalo!), and Greta Garbo demanded the premiere of Camille be held at the new Plaza Theater while she stayed at the hotel. Side note: if it weren’t for the founding mothers of Palm Springs (the White Sisters, Nellie Coffman, Lois Kellog —she was a wild one! — and Pearl McCallum McManus), it might still be a dusty little town. And the Cahuilla likely wouldn’t be where they are today without the 1950s all-women tribal council. Historically, in Palm Springs, men beat the drum of awareness while the women quietly made history. Sisters, amirite?

Liberace.

Palm Springs is so gay Liberace, Rock Hudson, Tab Hunter, Barry Manilow and gay icons Cher and Carol Channing had/have homes here. Not to mention the other “maybe they were, maybe there weren’t” plethora of stars. Although there is speculation, it doesn’t really matter, because Palm Springs has always offered personal privacy. No one is getting “outed” if they don’t want to be out.

Courtesy of CV Independent

In the 1980s, two anti-gay and AIDS-related bills were soundly trounced and, according to a 2017 article in Palm Springs Life, in 1991 club owner Gloria Green opened the first gay bar on Arenas Road, A Streetbar Named Desire (now known as Streetbar). I qualify that with the Palm Springs Life article because most accounts attribute the bar to Dick Haskamp and Hank Morgan, who apparently purchased it in the same year. So something is a little sketchy about the origins — however, Arenas would soon build up to become an all-gay city block with clubs and stores catering to gay men.

Pride was first celebrated in Palm Springs with a showcase called Sizzle. It wasn’t well received or advertised, and Sizzle fizzled out until 1992. By 1997, The Desert Sun estimated 30,000 people watched the (now) Pride parade.

Our gayness isn’t limited to Arenas. Oscar’s is alive almost every night with gay-leaning entertainment and Sundays is all about celebrating your gayness at the T-Dance. You can hear the party from blocks away.

We have so many drag queens they could hold court for an entire generation of royals, and they’re damn fine. Late night entertainment at The Copa and Toucans include long-running drag shows that pack the rooms, and drag brunches abound in our exceptionally inviting cozy town.

The San Francisco establishment of transgender performers AsiaSF chose Palm Springs as its second home. They opened just before the pandemic, and I’m told will reopen again in November — maybe December — of this year. I went to the opening in early 2020 (before you know what): these ladies are hot AF.

Some of the finest dining in Palm Springs is brought to you by gay restaurateurs. Roly China Fusion, Tropicale, Eight4Nine, Trio, PS Underground (an exciting take on dinner theater), The Purple Room (supper club), and 533 Viet Fusion to name just a few not on Arenas.

Desert Rose Playhouse is the one and only LGBTQ theater company and venue in the Coachella Valley. Now in Palm Springs proper at the old Zelda’s Nightclub space, they produce, support and elevate LGBTQ stories, actors, playwrights, and musicians. I have never been disappointed by their productions. So far this year I have seen The Great American Trailer Park Musical and Rocky Horror, and have tickets to see Hedwig and the Angry Inch. It’s a great space with a great vibe and the shows are delicious.

We have an LGBTQ+ community center, PFLAG (for supporters), and a retirement community for gays called Stonewall Gardens. We have two gay radio stations, the Gay Desert Guide, and the Palm Springs Cultural Center, with a mixture of artsy blockbusters and showcasing gay-themed films.

If you check out our website (already sorted for you!), you’ll find we have 11 resort hotels catering to gay men, some clothing optional. The Warm Sands area is generously dotted with gay boutique hotels.

One of my favorite things that hasn’t yet returned in the pandemic is our star drag queen Bella da Ball (aka Brian Wanzek) reading stories to kids at the Palm Springs Library. Bella even has her own star on our Walk of Stars.

There’s DAP, Desert AIDS Project, a terrific medical establishment that not only caters to gays living with AIDS but also administers to MediCal patients. I was on MediCal for a bit and they provide stellar care (I was sad when my insurance switched). They also run the resale stores Revivals which have terrific bargains on gently-used items, and some brand-new stuff too. Profits benefit DAP.

And of course there is the big event, Palm Springs Pride.

Some “must” events sent to me by Bella Da Ball:

November 1, 6 to 7 p.m.: George Zander Candlelight Vigil and March, 101 N. Museum Dr.

Beginning at the new downtown park (Museum Way and Museum Drive), this rally and march is in honor of George Zander. Six years ago to the day, George and Chris Zander were attacked in downtown Palm Springs, resulting in George’s death on December 10, 2015. This remembrance of George’s life keeps his memory alive, so that no other individual falls victim to a crime of hate.

November 7, 5 to 10 p.m.: Effen Vodka main stage, near the Hyatt Hotel on North Palm Canyon Drive. Party. Huge stage. Special video screens.

But wait, there’s even more eye candy than the parade! On November 5 and 6, enjoy the West Coast premiere of Global Rainbow by American artist Yvette Mattern. Specially designed lasers project a large-scale abstraction of a natural rainbow (the same colors in Gilbert Baker’s rainbow flag) celebrating the diverse LGBTQ+ communities and symbolizing hope and peace. Beamed high above Palm Canyon Drive at Amado Road, as far as the eye can see, until finally diminishing to a colorful glow over South Palm Canyon.  

Hitting the stage on November 5:

5:30 p.m. — Charles Herrera 

6 p.m. — Steven Michael’s Dance Machine, dancers, flaggers, drag

6:15 p.m. — Jason Stuart

6:30 p.m. — Shannon 

7:15 p.m. — Sassy Ross

7:30 p.m. — Jeanie Tracy

8 p.m. — Jody Watley

8:45 p.m. — The Perry Twins

The unadulterated joy and magic the Palm Springs LGBTQ+ community brings to our little town is unparalleled. That’s right, I said it: unparalleled.

Not gay? No one cares, we are a mecca for all who want to be included…unless you’re homophobic, then according to the website Abodo, you should vacation in Buffalo, New York.

See you at Pride!

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The Triangle Inn: Same Time Next Year

The Triangle Inn is like a charming man with a cheeky wit and a very sexy smile. Who wouldn’t want a second date?

Let’s start with a few fun facts, rated Hollywood-style.

The Triangle Inn spans the corners of San Lorenzo (très exotique, non?) and Random Road, a flirty wink from the street naming committee.

Rating: R for randy randomness

When it was built, the hotel was called The Impala Lodge. The year was 1958, and the architect was notable mid-century modernist Hugh Kaptur. 

Kaptur apprenticed for mid-mod darlings Harrison and Wexler, and Wexler apprenticed under the man they called the Desert Maverick, William Cody. In a 1958 Desert Sun article, Kaptur described the architectural design of the Lodge as the highly non-PC “Indian Modern.”

Rating: Winner, best documentary

Then, like the rest of us, the lodge went through some changes. From lodge to apartment building and into disrepair, the modernist gem was badly in need of an image overhaul.

Rating: Elizabeth Berkley

In the late 1980s/early 1990s, Matthew Robinson and Kevin Rice purchased the property, restored the original architecture, remodeled the rooms, and when the flag finally flew it was a rainbow flag, waving high above the newly named Triangle Inn, an eight-suite, men’s clothing optional resort. 

Rating: Kal Penn

The Triangle Inn’s entrance. Photo courtesy of The Triangle Inn

In 2000, Robinson and Rice were looking for someone to love the inn as much as they did, and ran into some wicked good luck. Two frequent Palm Springers from Atlanta (let’s call them Michael and Stephen because those are their names) decided they wanted to live in paradise and purchased the classy little mid-century revival gem.

Its massive glass-paned walls let the sunshine in and provide an endless view of our gorgeous mountains. Angular steel beams and the slanted roof are punctuated by lush tropical foliage; there are fruit trees all over the property —  mango, lemon, blood orange — making it feel as remote and as exotic as Gilligan’s Island without Ginger, Marianne, or the Howells (they’re so pretentious), but with way better amenities. 

But it’s not remote; it’s intimate. The hotel is actually only five minutes from downtown Palm Springs. That’s five by car, 15 if you’re biking. Drinking and biking renders various results, but generally longer durations and is not recommended.

Rating: A Star is Born

The living room in one of The Triangle Inn’s suites. Photo courtesy of The Triangle Inn

Consistently garnering five-star ratings and rave reviews, it shouldn’t surprise you that The Triangle Inn has a very long history of repeat guests. There are many reasons for this — the lovely suites, the fine amenities — but also because there is zero judgment. They’re very light on the rules, and then there’s that southern hospitality: warm as the sun and cool as the night air. 

Breakfast offers an assortment of breads, fruit, yogurt, and cereals, as well as coffee and tea — all gratis — on the covered patio by the pool. If you’d like a White Claw (again, no judgments, you’re on vacation) they’re $3 and you can drink them poolside. It’s all very chill.

The suites echo the style of the exterior, all in the mid-mod aesthetic, dressed in earthy tans and browns; light, sky blues; and rich sunset oranges. Even the Tarocco bath amenities are in burnt orange. 

The bathroom in one of The Triangle Inn’s suites. Photo courtesy of The Triangle Inn

The bed linens are crisp 500-count cotton, and all the accommodations have either a kitchen/dining room or a kitchenette depending on room size. Instead of a dishwasher in each of the suites, the houseman takes care of the dishes when he tidies your room.

Of all the places you can choose to stay in Palm Springs, The Triangle Inn is, perhaps, the most social. The intimate setting provides an opportunity for guests to become lifelong friends, not just with Michael and Stephen, but with each other, flying in from all over the world to meet up for a repeat performance.

Yet, because the rooms are all down the corridor, away from the outdoor activities, festivities, and laughter, guests can work from their suites before they go out to play. Some book for a month at a time, several times a year. It’s their home away from home. And because Michael and Stephen live on property, guests experience family-style hospitality that’s all rom-com and zero drama. 

Rating: All the stars

P.S. The Triangle Inn welcomes friendly canines. Inquire within.

The pool at night. Photo courtesy of The Triangle Inn

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The Descanso Resort Is A Palm Springs Paradise Just For Men

Palm Springs’ newest boutique resort for men exceeded all of my expectations. 

Descanso Resort is a fully refurbished and thoughtfully reimagined Palm Springs paradise with a “California garden patio” motif that somehow manages to weave its way through every detail of your experience. And after my recent three-day staycation there, I’m almost giddy to report that it’s brimming with pleasant surprises.

Spoiler alert: if you want to first experience these surprises in person, you should stop reading here.

Gregory Douglass and Glen Nadeau at Descanso Resort. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

Much like its brother Palm Springs property Santiago Resort, there is an immediate sense of familiarity as soon as you arrive. The property’s 16 charming suites wrap around you like a much-needed hug from a friend you haven’t seen in ages. The Descanso website proclaims General Manager Kent Taylor and his team “hold advanced degrees in pampering,” so you know you’re in for a treat.

If you check in before your room is ready, you’re actually in luck. Go ahead and lounge by (or in) their saltwater swimming pool, heated to a perfect 90 degrees at all times. You can also enjoy their saltwater spa, rinse down in the outdoor shower, or just retreat under the light mist of their outdoor cooling system. There’s even a communal fire pit to enjoy if the desert heat (or your fellow gaycationers) aren’t hot enough for you already.

The Descanso Resort’s pool area. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

Every poolside guest lounger has a fresh beach towel, rolled up like a bright green tube pillow. You won’t need a swimsuit either, because clothing is optional here. The 24-hour cantina is always stocked with snacks and beverages — picture a perfect Arnold Palmer and various coffee options, depending on your taste. It’s a Type A personality’s paradise.

The Pamper Patrol (aka the Descanso team) will happily hold your bags while you are busy melting into your favorite new desert oasis. Once your room is ready, you’ll have forgotten you were even waiting for it.

As you might have guessed, my husband Glen Nadeau and I arrived an hour before our room was ready. As we lingered by the pool, I sensed an unpretentious sophistication that made me feel like I could finally take a breath. In English, the Spanish word “Descanso” means “break,” as in “you deserve a break,” so I’ve since learned that was exactly how I was supposed to feel.

Descanso guests can enjoy iced tea or lemonade throughout the day. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

When we checked into our Balcony Suite, we were met with flush views of the majestic San Jacinto mountains and the Descanso’s magnificent landscaping, consisting of Mexican flame bushes, birds-of-paradise, lime trees, and vines that envelop the hotel’s exterior. Every detail of Descanso is old Hollywood architecture meets mid-century modern decor, but the landscaping is truly the focal point, serving you lush greenery that looks like it is painting an elegant white canvas. Various shades of green are the only “pop” colors that accent Descanso’s interior motif, echoing the symphony of greenery like a standing ovation.

The suite amenities include all you would expect of a place this deliberate — each room has a king-sized bed, Gilchrest & Soames luxury bath products, a mini portable fan, complimentary snacks and water, and a couch you can sleep on (should you have any expected — or unexpected — guests). There was even a “book” by the bed that opened to reveal a small treasure box containing some fun adult amenities for your (or his) pleasure.

The treasure box. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

After settling into our room, it was time for a complimentary “stay & splash” poolside lunch, provided by Aspen Mills Bakery. We could have then meandered around the neighborhood on Descanso’s complimentary bicycles, exploring the many restaurants and shops in the Palm Springs Uptown District, but we decided to stay poolside to see what else we had in store.

It wasn’t long before someone from the Pamper Patrol circled around the pool, offering each guest a popsicle from a silver platter (literally and figuratively speaking) to accompany their retreat. Soon after, the same rotation served a tray of rolled up frozen washcloths that had been dipped in eucalyptus, and I spent 10 blissful minutes breathing in the cool arctic vapors.

Descanso Resort General Manager Kent Taylor. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

As the sun changed position, so did the shade. But since Descanso’s lily-white umbrellas are also on wheels, the shade was always in reach. There’s even a bathroom within steps of the pool, with framed swimwear hanging on the walls (you can find this signature look in every bathroom at the resort). All of the property’s artwork is stunning, but the swimwear upstages its company because of its unexpected uniqueness, almost implying that bathing suits should remain a relic here.

When I finally dipped in the pool, it was difficult to get out. The salt water absolutely blankets you with minerals, acting like a natural moisturizer as opposed to the skin-drying effects of its evil stepsister (a.k.a. chlorinated water).

Once I retired to the outdoor saltwater spa, I had a simmering feeling that there were still subtle surprises around every corner. Sure enough, I looked down at the small rocks surrounding the tub and caught a glimpse of this one lone stone wearing a pair of painted underwear.

An unexpected rock at Descanso Resort. Photo credit: Gregory Douglass

As potential new friends began to get friendlier throughout the evening, I couldn’t wait for what other pleasant surprises the night would reveal. But that’s a story for another time.

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5 Hidden Speakeasies In Palm Springs Worth Finding

Let our Boutiquely Palm Springs bloggers Gregory Douglass and Kathy Condon take you on a tour of the secret speakeasies you’ll wish you knew about sooner.

Palm Springs has never been shy about hiding its charm. From iconic poolside resorts to bold mid-century architecture, our little desert paradise sure knows how to make an impression. But there’s a hidden layer to explore after the sun dips behind the San Jacinto Mountains.

We’re talking about speakeasies — intimate, hidden bars tucked behind velvet curtains and unmarked doors. Think: vintage ambiance, innovative cocktails, and that sweet rush of being “in the know.”

Speakeasy: A secret bar or nightclub that operated illegally during the Prohibition era (1920-1933) in the United States, where people could enjoy alcoholic beverages despite the alcohol ban.

Knowing that speakeasies are scattered throughout Palm Springs, we set out to explore them. And for travelers craving an unforgettable vacation, there’s no better place than Palm Springs to sip in (secret) style. Here are five fabulous speakeasies we discovered that will make your stay even more memorable.

Counter Reformation

A man sits inside a confessional booth at Counter Reformation

Gregory Douglass is ready to confess at Counter Reformation. Photo: Kathy Condon

Location: Parker Palm Springs
Address: 4200 E. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m., Thursday-Monday
Vibe: Irreverent, indulgent, and intimate

Tucked away inside the lushly manicured grounds of the Parker Palm Springs, this speakeasy is not easy to find. Look for a door to the left as you come down the pathway. It will be marked with praying hands holding a bottle of wine.

Counter Reformation offers small-batch wines (no spirits), with curated old-world selections by the glass paired with mouthwatering tapas-style small plates like jamón ibérico and duck confit sliders.

From its tin ceiling to the long bar stretching the entire length of the room, Counter Reformation’s medieval decor is elevated to the next level with the addition of an actual confessional at the far end of the bar.

Seymour’s

A woman wearing a green dress holds up a glass outside at Seymour's

Kathy Condon raises a glass outside at Seymour’s. Photo: Gregory Douglass

Location: Inside Mr. Lyons Steakhouse
Address: 233 E. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs
Hours: 6 p.m. to midnight, Tuesday-Sunday
Vibe: Mid-century Mad Men, shrouded in mystery

Walk through the elegant entrance of Mr. Lyons Steakhouse. The host will greet you. Say to them you would like to go to Seymour’s. With a smile, they will take you down the hallway and point to a velvet curtain.

Entering the space, you feel a sense of elegance for the decor, created from remnants of the original restaurant built in 1938. When the weather is beautiful, the outdoor patio is a welcoming expansion, complete with a fire pit that features flames that could light up a runway.

Mixologists offer a selection of seasonal, unique craft cocktails served in vintage glassware. The atmosphere offers cozy leather banquettes and mysterious, eclectic artwork in every direction. It might make you feel like you’re in an episode of Mad Men. Either way, it’s the kind of place where locals go to impress their out-of-town friends — and you’ll want to stay for more than one round.

The Evening Citizen

The Backstabber drink on a table with a small red lamp at The Evening Citizen in Palm Springs

The Backstabber is a must-try at The Evening Citizen. Photo: Gregory Douglass

Location: Arenas District
Address: 220 E. Arenas Road, Palm Springs
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m., Sunday-Thursday; 5 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday
Vibe: Mysterious, moody, and conspiracy-theory cool

The Evening Citizen’s intentionally cryptic website barely reveals a thing. It’s as intriguing as the bar menu itself, and honestly, that’s part of the charm.

The bar cultivates an air of conspiracy behind its unmarked rear entrance. Once you figure out which door to enter, inside you’ll find an intimate, sophisticated lounge where candlelight flickers against dark walls. The bar’s brooding atmosphere complements a giant portrait of German actor Udo Kier with an intimidating expression hanging over the bar.

The music is smooth, and the drinks are even smoother. We recommend the Backstabber, their dark spin on the classic Prohibition-era Bee’s Knees. It’s the perfect nightcap after a day by the pool or a night of bar hopping on Arenas.

If you’re lucky, you may even run into Udo Kier himself, now that he’s a Palm Springs local. Or is he?

Tailor Shop

A man sits in the dimly lit bar at Tailor Shop in Palm Springs

Gregory Douglass enjoys the sophisticated vibes at Tailor Shop. Photo: Gregory Douglass

Location: North Palm Canyon Drive
Address: 140 W. Vía Lola, Unit A, Palm Springs
Hours: 6 p.m. to 12:30 am, nightly
Vibe: Classy, creative, and impeccably tailored

If you’ve ever wanted your cocktail served with a side of couture, Tailor Shop is your destination bar. This newer addition to the Palm Springs bar scene is designed like a bespoke tailor’s parlor, with plush seating, dark woods, and drinks as polished as a Savile Row blazer.

Tailor Shop — self-appointed as a “purveyor of fine spirits” — is quiet, intimate, and elegant. It’s all about savoring your drink and your conversation over a thoughtfully crafted playlist of chill vibes, which you can even access yourself via Spotify if you ask the bartenders nicely.

Be sure to sample from their small bites menu, which is curated for finding the perfect pairings. I’d go back just for the dumplings (which pair well with just about anything).

This speakeasy-style boutique bar is perfect for romantic date nights, cocktail connoisseurs, and anyone seeking the chill side of Palm Springs. Consider this your go-to bar when you want to impress (or be impressed).

Bootlegger Tiki

A mai tai in a glass at Bootlegger Tiki Bar in Palm Springs

The mai tais at Bootlegger Tiki take you straight to the tropics. Photo: Gregory Douglass

Location: Historic Don the Beachcomber site
Address: 1101 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs
Hours: 3 to 11 p.m., Sunday-Thursday; 3 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday
Vibe: Retro, kitschy, and very intimate

For something a little more tropical (but no less secret), Bootlegger Tiki is the ultimate Palm Springs speakeasy with a Polynesian twist. Housed in the original Don the Beachcomber spot from 1953, this low-lit tiki lounge serves handcrafted drinks that are strong, sweet, and superb.

Inside is as intimate as it gets — just a few bar stools and booths — but there’s a patio out back for catching your breath between mai tais. In fact, their non-traditional mai tai is one of the best I’ve ever had.

Bootlegger Tiki’s decor is bamboo, thatch, and just the right amount of island kitsch. Their nightly Happy Hour is the first and last hour, and as you might have guessed, reservations are recommended here.

Why boutique hotels + secret bars = your best vacation

Now that you’re fully briefed on Palm Springs’ best-kept cocktail hideaways, there’s only one way to top off your night: retreating back to your charming boutique hotel, just a few sips away from the action.

Palm Springs boutique hotels represent everything that makes this city so magical: personalized service, one-of-a-kind style, and a sense of place you just don’t get from most big resorts. These independently-owned gems are the perfect home base for speakeasy-hopping, poolside lounging, and soaking up all the desert charm.

Written by Gregory Douglass and Kathy Condon

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The Top Five “Gayest” Drinks in Palm Springs

Palm Springs, California, is a mecca for the LGBTQIA+ community and home to some of the most fabulous boutique hotels in the world. Many of our hotels are attached to equally spirited bars and restaurants that serve up some deliciously colorful cocktails.

Today, I’m spotlighting five different bars that are serving up the Top Five “Gayest” Drinks in Palm Springs in honor of our vibrant LGBTQIA+ community. Each bar has its own unique take on their gayest drink, and I’m excited to share them with you.

The “Garden Cooler” at Azucar at the La Serena Villas

Azucar is a cozy little hideaway at the La Serena Villas. The bartender, Manny, served up the Garden Cooler, made with rum, cucumber, basil, lemon, and sugar. This drink was not only refreshing, but it’s also the perfect blend of sweet and tangy. Manny created this drink on the spot for me to review, and I have to say, he hit it out of the park. It’s not too sweet and goes down easy, making it a fantastic drink for a hot summer day. This drink made me feel like a Slim Aarons model from one of his iconic Palm Springs photographs. This drink is not on the menu, but I’m sure Manny will make one special for you upon request. Azucar at La Serena Villas, 339 S. Belardo Road.

The Garden Cooler at Azucar. Photo by Gregory Douglass

The “Hello Kitty Kitty” at Blackbook

Blackbook is in the heart of Palm Springs’ beloved Arenas District. Tom the bartender poured me a Hello Kitty Kitty, made with Portland Potato Vodka, Giffard’s Violette liqueur, club soda, Orgeat almond syrup, and a mammoth rosemary sprig for garnish. This drink has been on the menu since Blackbook first opened, and it’s not hard to see why. It’s sweet, bubbly, and looks like a psychedelic rosemary garden in a glass. Blackbook, 315 E. Arenas Road.

The Hello Kitty Kitty at Blackbook. Photo by Gregory Douglass

The “Lucy Goosey” at Del Rey at Villa Royale

Del Rey is a hip Mediterranean tapas-style joint, tucked inside the Villa Royale hotel. Alejandro was behind the bar, serving up the Lucy Goosey. He made this drink with Grey Goose vodka, orange liquor, raspberry syrup, and lemon, shaken and strained into a coup glass with lime zest. Alejandro created this drink on the spot for me to review, and it tasted like a bowl of frozen sherbet on a perfect summer day. It’s fruity, but not too sweet, and it’s a great drink for any occasion. He chose the name “Lucy Goosey” as an ode to famed Palm Springs celebrity Lucille Ball and the Grey Goose the cocktail was made with. While it may not be on Del Rey’s drink menu, I’m sure Alejandro will make one special for you if asked. Del Rey at Villa Royale, 1620 S. Indian Trail.

The Lucy Goosey at Del Rey. Photo by Gregory Douglass

The “La Passion Pour la Vie” at The Front Porch

The Front Porch, located in the heart of downtown Palm Springs, is known for La Passion Pour la Vie, the winner of the Audience Choice Award at the 2020 Palm Springs Craft Cocktail Competition. It’s lovingly made with house-infused apple tequila, mezcal, house-made passion fruit syrup, house-made apple juice, St. Germain, lemon, and a float of pomegranate liqueur, smoked with applewood. The La Passion Pour la Vie is a work of art. It’s as delicious as it looks (the flowers are even edible), and it’s the perfect drink to sip on a warm Palm Springs evening. If “Gayest Drink in Palm Springs” were an official competition, this cocktail wins my vote. The Front Porch, 117 La Plaza.

The La Passion Pour la Vie at The Front Porch. Photo courtesy of The Front Porch

The “Plush Cosmo” at V Wine Lounge

Finally, we have V Wine Lounge, where Doug served up the Plush Cosmo. This drink is made with Plush plum-flavored vodka, Cointreau, cranberry juice, and freshly-squeezed lime juice. This drink is essentially a Cosmo, but the plum-flavored, corn-distilled vodka by Plush takes it to the next level. It’s not too sweet, and the fresh lime really accentuates the flavors. V Wine Lounge, 600 E. Tahquitz Canyon Way.

The Plush Cosmo in a martini glass

The Plush Cosmo at V Wine Lounge. Photo by Gregory Douglass

Whether you’re looking for something sweet, tangy, or bubbly, there’s a drink for everyone here in Palm Springs. So come and explore, sip, and savor the flavors. I think it’s safe to say that Palm Springs is serving up some of the best drinks in the world year-round.

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It’s Time For Another Action-Packed March In Palm Springs

“I try not to limit my madness to March.” — Maxine (a.k.a. John Wagner for Shoebox Cards)

For most of the world, March is a tempestuous mistress. Cold and blustery, then cold and sunshine-y. She’s a whole lot of brrrrrrrrr.

In Palm Springs, March is more of a minx: flirty and fun. Her daytimes are generally in the 80s and sometimes 90s, however she can give you the cold shoulder, too. Especially at night. The solution is to bring your swimsuit and a bunch of layers because in Palm Springs, March is a swinger. She gets a bit chilly at night but bounces back by 10 a.m.

Without further ado, we will now continue our fun streak of delightful Palm Springs activities, with one event that’s so cool I might have just peed a little reading about it. Read on while I change me undies:

New restaurant alert:

Osteria Palmina

Dinner and a show:

The Purple Room

March 3, 4, and 5: Lucie Arnaz: I Got The Job 

March 6, 13, 20, 27: The Judy Show 

If you’ve read this blog before, you know it’s my favorite show in town.

March 11 and 12: John Lloyd Young 

March 17, 18, and 19: Marvelous Marilyn Maye

March 25 and 26: Joe Pasa as Joan Rivers

AsiaSF 

Dinner and a lip sync show! The costumes are outstanding! Same producers as the one in San Francisco.

PS Underground

Pop 80s — Featuring The Gand Band

Gospel Brunch with Keisha D

Laurel Canyon — a tribute to those artists of the area, like Linda Rondstadt, Joni Mitchell, and The Doors (with music from The Gand Band).

The Mod Squad Variety Show — Another personal favorite, this one’s a brunch.

Ovation — A jazz-inspired Sunday brunch.

Light — I have always wanted to see this show! Described as an “unparalleled multi-sensory journey” that offers an “unprecedented dining experience through culinary art and technological innovation.”

Broadway Blind – A musical Sunday brunch.

A Night at the Chi Chi — Mark your calendars, this one’s on April 1 and 2.

Courtesy of PS Underground

Oscar’s 

The Women Of Knots (that’s Knots Landing, people!)

Drinks and entertainment:

Cascade Lounge at Agua Caliente in downtown Palm Springs

Jazzville — Every Thursday

Caliente Comedy — Every Friday 

Latin Nights — Every Sunday

PS Cultural Center

Jazz on the Second Floor

Martinis & Moxie

Theater:

Palm Canyon Theater
Palm Springs Getaway! Runs until March 13.

Desert Rose Playhouse
Electricity
Brian Justin Crum 
Palm Springs The Musical: Born To Sparkle — World premiere!

Courtesy of Palm Springs The Musical

The Annenberg
The Anniversary — A full-length dance film event.
Coachella Valley Symphony Concerto Concert
Lilias White — White has appeared in cabarets and concert halls around the world, including the Kennedy Center, Carnegie Hall, the Sydney Opera House, and Lincoln Center. Her debut solo studio album, Get Yourself Some Happy!, was released in July.

Desert Ensemble Theatre
All This Intimacy — Described as a sex comedy gone wrong.

Dezart Performs
The Mountaintop — A reimagining of Martin Luther King Jr.’s last day at the Lorraine Hotel and his encounter with a young maid. There’s a huge twist in this play, something you can expect to be handled brilliantly by Dezart. 

All the rest:

Palm Springs Chalk Art Festival
OMG!! I LOVE chalk art, especially from artists with a sense of whimsy. One of my favorite creators on TikTok is chalk artist David Zinn. This is a free event.

MOGO Silent Disco Tour
If anyone wants to do this, please include me!

Photo courtesy of MOGO Silent Disco Tour

Palm Springs Vintage Market
This Palm Springs staple will run on March 6 from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. 

French Cooking Classes
In the chef’s private home — all reviews are spectacular!

Of course the old “musts” are still available, and if you haven’t, well…you must!

Aerial Tramway

Palm Springs Art Museum

Palm Springs Air Museum

Hiking at Indian Canyons — Please note: closed on March 11 for the Legacy Hike. 

Happy Palm Springs everyone! See you in April.

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Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels, Big Blend Radio Launch Monthly Show

Travelers have a new way to learn more about what to do and where to stay in Palm Springs, thanks to a partnership between Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels (PSPSH) and Big Blend.

PSPSH is a consortium of more than 70 independently-owned boutique hotels in Palm Springs, while Big Blend, owned and operated by mother-daughter duo Nancy J. Reid and Lisa D. Smith, produces, publishes, and distributes digital travel content. Beginning in January 2023, PSPSH and Big Blend Radio are teaming up for a show, “Palm Springs Sunshine Stays,” that will air the second Saturday of every month.

Each episode will have a different, Palm Springs-related theme, from the architecture of the city to romantic getaways to how Palm Springs is an LGBTQ+ friendly destination. Every show will feature interviews with Palm Springs hoteliers and insiders who can share their insights as innkeepers and tips on how to have the best Palm Springs vacation.

“We are thrilled about partnering with PSPSH to not only promote Palm Springs as a must-visit, year-round destination, but to continue our work in showcasing small and independent businesses — unique lodgings in this case — and put responsible tourism at the forefront,” Smith says.

Lisa D. Smith and Nancy J. Reid. Photo courtesy of Big Blend

“The team at Big Blend understands travelers’ desires to have uncommon experiences. And that’s what Palm Springs and its boutique hotel community is all about,” notes Michael C. Green, chair of Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels. “We’ve done several successful shows with them in the past, so the partnerships makes sense.”

To listen to “Palm Springs Sunshine Stays,” visit Big Blend Radio’s website. Have an idea for a show or want to learn more about a specific topic? Get in touch with PSPSH at palmspringpreferredsmallhotels@gmail.com.

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Descanso Resort: Hollywood, Palm Springs Style

It has been over a century since Hollywood put Palm Springs on the map. Rudolph Valentino may have been the first to bring it to national recognition when he honeymooned with Natacha Rambova at Florilla White’s Palm Springs Inn. What’s so newsworthy about that? Well, he was not quite legally divorced from his first wife, actress Jean Acker, and he was arrested for bigamy. Escándalo! 

Since then, a lot of privately owned resorts in Palm Springs have opened, and they are all very special. Some had a prior life as private homes for recognizable Hollywood names, others were built by starchitects, and many have wonderful stories about well-known people who stayed there. Each has its own personality and all of them are charming. Several have that old Palm Springs feel and some are classic mid-century modern retreats, but there is one men’s resort that has combined the old Hollywood feel with the new Hollywood aesthetic: the Descanso Resort near the Uptown Design District.

Courtesy of Descanso Resort

The English translation of the Spanish word “Descanso” is “break,” as in “you deserve a break,” and young professionals looking for that Hollywood Roosevelt pool feel with a tropical vibe will definitely appreciate the look, feel, and social amenities at Descanso. The resort has only been open for a few months, but the reviews are already in — and they’re five-star raves.   

Built in 1946 and last known as East Canyon Resort, the property has good bones — a classic, sought-after exterior design, with its large suites around a beautiful pool and spa — but by the time 2020 rolled around, it was very much in need of some TLC. A “group of guys from Portland” (who now live in my head as the Portland Authority [the Authority™]) recognized its potential, paid the man, and got to work.

They started by tackling the landscaping. The view of the pool was completely obstructed by greenery covering the eaves, so straight away they cut some Louise Brooks bangs, or fringe if you’re posh (and we are), and began finding out what was underneath the overgrown flora.

Now landscaped for maximum comfort and privacy, every lounge chair, every structure, every spot in the resort has a clear eyeline to the shimmering (saltwater!) pool, the majestic palms dotting the horizon, and the grandeur of the San Jacinto Mountains backdropping the picturesque view. 

Courtesy of Descanso Resort

The property is swanky but not fussy; it has a casual elegance that makes you feel like something special is about to happen. Two white columns flank the entrance, which leads to a breezeway filled with lush exotic greenery and white wrought iron and frosted-glass gates. 

The all-glass lobby is cheerful with its funky 1970s green and white flowered front desk and attached sitting room. All of the wall art is mid-mod style, including photos by Slim Aarons and current local William Dey. Paintings are by Shawn Savage, who is known around these parts as the “Palm Springs Lifestyle GURU and the go-to guy for top interior designers.”

Courtesy of Descanso Resort

Varying in size from 400 square feet to 515 square feet, with either a poolside or balcony view, the 16 suites are festooned in the hues of the desert —  armless couches wrapped in palm tree green, rich charcoal and cloud-white checkered accent chairs, sleek platform king beds dressed in crisp white linens, accent walls in blues and greens, and desertscape seagrass floor tiles. It is sleek mid-century modern design with a firm nod to minimalism. 

The suites also come with a fridge, a safe, an iron, and a hairdryer, but let’s talk about the bathrooms. You guys, they have freestanding deep white porcelain tubs, Gilchrest & Soames luxury bath products, and little white tables on either side of the tub to rest your cocktail. Big fluffy green towels are for après bath. 

Courtesy of Descanso Resort

Because a vacation should be all about the aaaahhh, and not about waiting for an available table, Descanso provides a full-on craft services breakfast: fruits, yogurts, croissants, ham and cheese, granola, etc. Lunch is ordered in from a Palm Springs eatery, like Aspen Mills Bakery, with offerings including delectable sandwiches and salads. Snacks and beverages are readily available in the 24-hour cantina, but dinner is all about going out to one of our fabulous restaurants and joining in the merry at the many bars that cater to the gay community. Of course, you’re not restricted to gay establishments; the world is your oyster in Palm Springs. So, spice it up, throw on some Tabasco, and enjoy. 

If you’re looking for recommendations, the Descanso’s staff is more than accommodating, so just ask. The Wi-Fi is strong with this one — if you want to do your own research on where to go for drinks or dinner, or have to work on that script or secure that deal, you’re in the money.

Courtesy of Descanso Resort

Feeling adventurous? Grab one of the bikes (complimentary use for guests!), tool around downtown, then pop back for a quick outdoor shower and have that massage you’ve been looking forward to (the one you booked from Descanso’s well-curated list of male massage therapists).

When your massage is finished, have a soak in the spa beneath the courtyard’s misters — a lovely combination of cooled air and steamy body, but not so wet as to douse the flames from the fire pit. If it’s the weekend, you might like to time it around Wine O’Clock, Descanso’s happy hour. Mix it up with new friends, or have an intimate date for two, or three — no one’s judgy here. We’re too busy spending every day in paradise. 

Courtesy of Descanso Resort

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Palm Springs Boutique Hotels Receive Michelin Keys Honors

For the first time, the Michelin Guide has awarded Michelin Keys in the United States, and four Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels made the list: Dive Palm Springs, Holiday House, La Serena Villas, and Sparrows Lodge.

Michelin said its Keys are bestowed upon hotels that “significantly add to your experience as a traveler, each vetted and judged excellent in five categories: architecture and interior design, quality and consistency of service, overall personality and character, value for the price, and a significant contribution to the guest experience in a particular setting.”

Palm Springs boutique hotels that made the cut

The La Reve Room at Dive Palm Springs with a floral design on the ceiling and hardwood floors and a white bed

The La Reve Room at Dive Palm Springs is a Parisian dream. Photo courtesy of Dive Palm Springs

The Michelin Key is the equivalent of the Michelin Star for restaurants, with hotels able to earn one, two, or three Keys. Dive Palm Springs, Holiday House, La Serena Villas, and Sparrows Lodge all received one Key, denoting “a very special stay.” 

The colorful art-filled lobby at Holiday House greets guests

The colorful lobby at Holiday House greets guests. Photo courtesy of Holiday House

Michelin praised Dive for having an “atmosphere … nothing short of restorative,” and applauded Holiday House’s ability to “cater to the whims of modern travelers.” As for Sparrows Lodge, it is “like a dreamy hipster version of the summer camp of your childhood,” while visitors to La Serena Villas would be “hard pressed to find a lovelier example of colonial-contemporary architecture and design.”

A view of the pool at La Serena Villas in Palm Springs, California, at sunset with the San Jacinto Mountains in the background

Sunset at La Serena Villas. Photo courtesy of Kirkwood Collection

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