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“I’m sorry. He thinks he’s an elf.” — Walter, Elf

Here we are, at the top of December, and while most of the U.S. is wrapped in a blanket of snow, we’ve got so much sunshine, we’re walking on it. Yeah, yeah, it’s chilly in the morning and perfect for a cuppa hot whatever, but by noon you’ll be all warmed up. 

It’s perfect hiking weather, and perfect party weather. We’ve got both. We’re pretty festive during the holidays; oh who am I kidding, we’re totally merry and gay. See for yourself:

Holiday cheer in Palm Springs

A Christmas tree made of lights above Palm Springs, California

The view from the top after taking the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Dec. 4, 5, 8, 11, 12, and 15 — Sounds of the Holidays at the Tramway. A different local high school chorale on each date.

Dec. 5: Cookies with Mrs. Claus at 6 p.m. during VillageFest. Photo op!

Dec. 7: Breakfast with Santa at the Tramway, 8:30 a.m., another photo op!

Dec. 7: Festival of Lights Parade, starts at 5:45 p.m. on Palm Canyon Drive between Tachevah and Ramon.

Dec. 8: Tree Lighting at the Tramway, 5:30 p.m. This year’s celebrity tree lighter is Abi Carter, the winner of season 22 of American Idol. Patrick Evans, KESQ meteorologist and host of Eye on the Desert, will emcee the evet, with the Palm Springs High School Choir and String Quartet performing holiday favorites. The tram’s 45-foot tree is covered in over 4,000 LED lights.

Dec. 12: Walk of the Inns, 4 to 7 p.m. Take a self-guided tour of participating small hotels, all with stories going back to old Palm Springs. Bring a flashlight, and dress warm. 

Theatre

Dec. 6-22: The Bent presents I’ll Eat You Last, with Cathy Moriarty as Sue Mengers.

Dec. 6: Revolution Stage Company presents Company (and other special events) 

Art

More than 180 David Hockney prints will be on display at the Palm Springs Art Museum through March 31, 2025.

Dinner and a show

PS Underground: Attend one of their dazzling dinner shows, or host your own party. Count on the creative genius of Michael and Chef Dave to help you create an outstanding event that your friends will be talking about for years to come.

The Purple Room: Food is only topped by the entertainment. Local favorites during the week, ticketed events on the weekend. If you’re spending a long weekend, go see The Judy Show. So much fun!

Palm Springs Cultural Center in the Historic Camelot Theaters: So much going on here, from live music, cocktails, and bar food (happy hours during the week) to immersive events in the big theatre. Retro movies, and special events. Check them out.

Crystal Fantasy Psychic Weekend, 11 to 7 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. 

Drift: Check out their happenings. Even if you’re not staying there (but you should), Drift welcomes you to join the fun.

The Rock Gallery: Various events, open mic, comedy, and rocks!

Palm Springs staples

Candles light up the night at a vendor's stand at VillageFest

One of the shopping options at VillageFest. Photo by Kathy Condon

VillageFest takes place on Dec. 5, 12, 19, and 26, from 6 to 10 p.m. 

Indian Canyons and Tahquitz Canyon: Great hiking, several locations. Some are a little tougher than others, so check the description. 

Pickleball: Demuth Park has 12 pickleball courts and one tennis court. Need some help with your form or the rules? Linda Paulding is a certified pickleball and tennis coach. All ages.

Looking forward

Jan. 2-13, 2025: 36th International Palm Springs Film Festival. Every year, movie stars converge on Palm Springs to honor films from all around the world.

Modernism Week is set for February 13-23.

Coachella in April, book your hotel early, hey fill up fast.

Look for another post from me soon with a fun and unexpected way to spend Christmas and/or New Year’s Eve.

I hope you’re all full of holiday cheer, and if not, come to Palm Springs! We can’t solve all your problems, but we can make you forget about them for awhile. Cheers!

Modernism Week does a great job curating special moments for you, but you can also create your own. Here are some spots that have the ring-a-ding to go full-metal Rat Pack. Some of them are on the Modernism Week website, and some of them are me making sure your trip is, as Frank Sinatra would say, 18 carat. 

Eat like Sinatra in Palm Springs

Johnny Costas — Frequented by Sinatra, they opened in 1976 — a little late for the mid-mod era, but it’s gangster. High class gangster that is. White shirts and black ties for the waitstaff, dimly lit, it’s 100% old school Italian. And it is good. Sit inside in the main restaurant for the full effect. You will leave happy and satisfied.

Wang’s in the Desert — Formerly Jilly’s, the club was owned and operated by Sinatra’s right-hand man, Jilly Rizzo. From Palm Springs Life: “Rizzo, a restaurateur and entertainer from New York City, owned Jilly’s Saloon in NYC, a celebrity hangout in the 1960s. Rizzo was a frequent guest on Rowan and Martin’s Laugh In and had bit parts in the Manchurian Candidate, Tony Rome, The Detective, and the television show Kojak.”

 Even after Jilly’s became Wang’s, it maintained a good reputation for having decent food and solid entertainment. The pandemic took it out, and in 2023 the Desert Sun announced that it would be closing for good. Surprise! It’s back, and still offering pan-Asian food. (Also right next to it is Bit of Country, my favorite “no frills, just good food” breakfast.)

Melvyn’s — Inside the historic Ingleside Estate (rebranded from Ingleside Inn), Melvyn’s bar is always swinging. This is old Palm Springs at its finest. Martinis are de rigueur, and they have a house pianist/entertainer. Sunday afternoons feature jazz jams. The dining room still serves Sinatra’s favorite dish, Steak Diane.

Bar Cecil — A mid-mod Hollywood crossover, many consider this the hippest spot in the Valley. Pronounced “Sess-ill,” there have been abundant celebrity sightings and it made the Michelin Guide in 2022.

Food and fun 

The Purple RoomThe Judy Show is a must see in this Rat Pack supper club. Classically, the show has been on Sunday evenings, as it is the hottest ticket in town. I promise you’ll have a blast but you gotta book it now.

Entertainment

V Wine and Martini Lounge — Wonderful spot in an architecturally significant building designed by Hugh Kaptur. Right next to Koffi on Tahquitz, the fact that I am putting this under just entertainment is misleading. They do have food, and it is delicious, but it’s not exactly a meal meal, more like tapas. Also, the Opal Lounge features some of Palm Springs’ finest entertainers. Minimum cover, delicious cock and mock tails, tasty snacks, and great entertainment in a spot where it looks like Doris Day bumped into Rock Hudson during a 1960s rom-com.

Revolution Stage Company — Not sure if they have a Modernism Week event yet, as they’ve only been around for a year, but man do they have a wide variety of entertainment. Not just relegated to musicals, dramas, and new works, the Revolution brings in cabaret acts from all over the country, and gave us a couple of knockout shows last season. Make sure to check out their website.

 If you’re looking to sample some of Palm Springs local eateries, book Desert Tasty Tours and tell them I sent you. It’s a three-hour walking and eating tour covering four blocks of downtown Palm Springs. You get a little history (downtown is lousy with it), visit Marilyn, drink a couple of cocktails, and leave with a very full belly.

About eight years ago, the owners of the Camelot Theatre (built in the 1960s and the first cineplex in Palm Springs, still with the biggest screen and the best technical abilities in the Coachella Valley) donated the building to the Palm Springs Cultural Center, who turned it into a terrific entertainment complex while still retaining the original blueprint. They’re the premiere spot for film festivals, and it’s where the International Film Fest was born. So, check out the schedule; they’ll have some Modernism Week programming. They are also the home to two theatre companies, and five days a week have live entertainment for happy hour upstairs from 5 to 7 p.m. (look for The Mod Squad — so much fun!).

And that’s what’s cracking. Make sure to make reservations and your trip will go from 18-carat to platinum, pussycat.

“One thing about flying that he never got used to was that no matter how awful the weather was on the ground, if you flew high enough you could always find the sun.” ― Tom Clancy, The Hunt for Red October

On the ground, in the air, you can always find the sun in Palm Springs. It shines 360 days out of the year. And when I say “shine,” I do mean shine. October is generally gorgeous. You may hit a few days in the 100s, but mostly it will be 80s and 90s, great for the pool and for keeping your summer tan in top notch shape. Evenings can get cool-ish, so bring a light wrap/jacket when you go out to one of the many events available to you here in Palm Springs.

This month (and next!)  is all about the big events. We’ve got Modernism Week-October, Halloween, and then Pride. The excitement is palpable; I’m all giddy inside.

A lot of these events partner with the big hotels, but in order to have a true Palm Springs experience, check out our boutique hotels and resorts. They’re all about you. A smaller footprint means exceptional customer service. And if you’re one of those folks that doesn’t like being fussed over, there are plenty of options that operate like a VRBO — you let yourself in, and although people are close at hand if you need them, you’ll otherwise never see ’em. Two such hotels are Talavera and The Weekend.

The lovely pool area at Weekend Palm Springs. Photo courtesy of The Weekend Palm Springs

Special note: The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is closed until Oct. 10.

New restaurant alerts:

Bread and Flours, a sourdough bakery, just opened on the north end near Toucan’s (they share a parking lot) and Boozehounds, the very dog-friendly bar and restaurant.

The Front Porch doesn’t have a website yet (that I can find) but it is (you’ll never guess) the front porch of Farm, located in The Plaza. It’s all indoors, and it’s small, so make it a date night. If you’ve never been to Farm, you are missing out. Their food is outstanding and their ambiance equally so. If you can’t get in, my other little French favorite is L’Atelier right across the way, just beyond Tyler’s, which is open again! You must check out all three, writer’s orders.

Coming soon: The same couple that owns Farm created Tac/Quila, a fabulous, high-end Mexican restaurant specializing in seafood. This is gonna sound weird (at least it did to me) but have the fried avocado as an appetizer. It’s batter-fried, like tempura, and ZOMG is it good! But that’s not why I’m writing this. Just like Farm, Tac/Quila is going to open another bar/restaurant called Clandestino, featuring a smaller food menu and a larger bar. Its motto seems to be “shhh, no one will know you’re here unless you tell them.”

Cheers to good friends. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

And now, the main events:

Oct. 1 and 2: 15th Annual Palm Springs Body, Mind, Spirit Weekend at Crystal Fantasy. This is a HUGE event with classes (and more) in just about every spiritual art. If you’re interested in reiki, crystals, chakras, tarot, and psychic readings, you’ve found your home.

Oct. 2: Palm Springs Vintage Market at Palm Springs Cultural Center. Held the first Sunday of the month, it’s the best place around to get vintage everything. Why? Because it’s vintage dealers from all over selling their treasures. Go get you some.

Oct. 7: Fellini Retrospective: AMARCORD, a scathing satirical critique of Italian provincial life during the 1930s, the height of the fascist period. Bar opens at 5 p.m. with Italian food specials, followed by AMARCORD at 7 p.m. Come early and mingle with fellow film lovers.

Oct. 13-16: Modernism Week-October. I’m going to be a tour guide assistant this year, so if you see me in the bottom of your bus, please say hello!

Oct. 15 and 16: Modernism Show and Sale Fall Edition

Oct.15: Sky Islands and Climate Refugia at the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. It’s a hike, what more can I say? Oh yeah, it costs the price of a ticket up.

Oct. 21: LGBTQ Center Stage Event. (Don’t ask me who Rob is, I have no idea. They think he’s/she’s me.) The Center Stage gala will be held at the Palm Springs Air Museum amid stunning views of the San Jacinto Mountains and departing planes, dazzlingly catered by the iconic LULU California Bistro (great food and people watching at their location). Entertainment will include Jennifer Corday, award-winning and out-and-proud lesbian singer/songwriter, and Brian Justin Crum, the top-charting queer singer-songwriter and former America’s Got Talent finalist!

Oct. 29: Palm Springs Air Museum Chili Cook-Off & Car Show. Museum admission includes car show. Chili tastings are $1 each or $5 for six tasting tickets. Car show opens at 10 a.m., while tastings start at 11 a.m. To enter a vehicle, please call 760-774-9936 or email packard1708@gmail.com. It says it’s going to be spooky, so maybe I should have put this in the Halloween post, but unless you’re afraid of chili and flying, I don’t see a lot of spooky.

There’s plenty more happening this month — for ticketed food and entertainment, make sure to check out The Purple Room, PS Underground (new spiffy website!), The Alibi, Oscar’s, Cascade Lounge (for comedy, Jazzville, blues and Latin music in the casino), and Melvyn’s (located in the historic Ingleside Inn) for a damn fine time. Also, Palm Springs Cultural Center, a.k.a. Camelot Theatres, has a bunch of fun to be had. Not just movies (they’re great, it’s a 58′ screen!) but also booze, food, and entertainment. Here’s the weekly stuff.

The Casablanca Lounge at Melvyn’s. Photo courtesy of Melvyn’s

Heads up for November:

Rock the Plaza. This all-star concert on Friday, November 11, is a fundraiser to save the historic Plaza Theatre in Palm Springs. Featuring Alice Cooper, Paul Rodgers (Free, Bad Company), Josh Homme (Queens of the Stone Age), Orianthi (Michael Jackson, Steve Vai, Alice Cooper), and many, many more musicians. Hosted by Chris Carter, music producer and SiriusXM DJ. Tickets are $175 per person and up.

Pride is in November, and if you’re looking for somewhere to hang out and enjoy the festivities, try Roly China Fusion.

If you need somewhere to stay for Pride, we’ve got you covered. We have a fabulous selection of all-male clothing-optional hotels. Just use the dropdowns to sort.

Happy birthday to all the Libras and Scorpios out there, and when you come here to celebrate, please shop and stay local. It keeps the lights on.

See you next month!

The streets are filled with people celebrating Pride. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

It’s February, and no matter how many days it happens to be, it’s always been short shrifted. I’d start a movement, “Equal Days for February,” but February doesn’t seem to care. Within those 28 or 29 days in February, we get three holidays, two of which are solely American: President’s Day, for fairly obvious reasons, and Groundhog’s Day, with Punxsutawney Phil (1886) as the oldest of the celebrated rodents; tied for second are Mickey and Minnie (1928), with Mighty Mouse (1942) rounding out the meese. It’s a word, look it up.

With the exception of a few countries, Valentine’s Day is celebrated worldwide. Some of the customs are different, like in Japan and Korea where the women are the gift givers (rude). In Finland, they celebrate friendship (yay!) and Bulgaria keeps it simple with couples sharing a glass of wine. 

Love is also in the air in Palm Springs, but that’s just a blip on the radar compared to the mack daddy of all our signature events, Modernism Week, running Feb. 13-23. People fly in from all over the world to celebrate the mid-mod aesthetic and participate in home and bus tours, watch movies, and listen to speakers. Last year, 130,000 people attended. Where do we put them all? The diehards stay in our fabulous small boutique hotels and resorts that were built during those days of yore. 

If you’re not into all that, we’ve still got non-Modernism stuff going on, so grab a cuppa whatever, and let’s go:

One and done events

Feb. 1: Soul Springs Festival, 1 – 6 p.m., Downtown Park, free. This vibrant celebration of soul and jazz music invites attendees to enjoy captivating live performances by top artists, along with an interactive Soul Music Sing-Along where everyone can join in on classic hits. The festival promotes a sense of community and connection, encouraging attendees to bring their lawn chairs and spend a memorable day with family and friends.

Dinner and a show 

Purple Room — Come play where the Rat Pack used to tear it up at this classy but fun hot spot on the southern end of the Palm Canyon strip, about two blocks past Sunrise Way/Lavergne. It’s a bit confusing on how to get there, but there’s what I call a “service road” that runs parallel to Palm Canyon. It’s just past the Saguaro; look for a sign that says “Trinidad Club.”   

PS Underground — Visit their website for non-modernism shows, but maybe check out Ponytails, Chiffon and Shangri La, Feb. 18 – 20. For those of you who are unaware, Palm Springs was the movie stand-in for Shangri La in quite a few movies, starting way back in the early 1900s. PS Underground is a great experience, with wonderful food and entertainment. By the time you leave, you will know everyone at your table, and likely more. 100% worth it. 

PS Air — It’s a restaurant/bar on a plane. Not a real one, but it feels like it. One of those big old airplanes that had an upstairs lounge where passengers could gather for cocktails and steak and lobster dinner (I don’t know how good it was. My family always went overseas by ship. Yes, I’m posh). PS Air takes you back to a time when flying was an “experience” and a way to travel. This year they have the Mid-Mod Boozy Brunch drag show on Feb. 16 and 23 “piloted” by charming and smooth-voiced Tod Macofsky with his crew of “stewardesses.” 

Oscar’s — Good food, great entertainment. Home of Sunday’s The Bitchiest Brunch, Oscar’s has an eclectic mix of entertainers that mostly land in the realm of queer in all sense of the word — strange and unusually odd (but fantastic) and often part of the rainbow. 

Dinner and dancing

Reforma — Inside the class one historic building known as the Jewel Box of the Desert. Enjoy dinner at La Cocina, dinner and dancing (separate) during Warehouse Wednesdays, Gasolina on Fridays, and Y2K AF on Saturdays. 

Sammy G’s — Good Italian food on the menu in the restaurant and twinkly courtyard. After dinner, on Fridays and Saturdays, take it upstairs to the lounge and dance the night away to the music of the 1970s and 80s, covered by excellent local band the Evaro Brothers.

Entertainment, a nosh, and cocktails

The Rock Gallery — New comedy club where the Mid-Century Modern Museum used to be, on Palm Canyon Drive.

V Wine Lounge and Martini Bar — You can still keep it in the mid-mod aesthetic by going to this terrific spot in the class one historic Hugh Kaptur Plaza. Right next to Koffi on Tahquitz, there’s plenty of parking, pinot, and performances by some of our terrific local artists. 

The Village Pub — Check it out during VillageFest. There’s always great music coming from their patios that makes you want to hit the dance floor. Lots of rooms to navigate —  always an adventure!

Drinks, dancing and drag

Copa Nightclub — Late night club with drag shows and more, right next to The Tropicale.

Toucan’s Tiki Lounge — The OG of drag clubs and dancing. If you don’t like drag, don’t go. ‘K?

That’s it so far for February, I have to go thrifting for my mid-mod aesthetic outfit for Modernism Week. See you on the streets!

First, I regret the announcements: Not quite ready to take the plunge, Splash House has been rescheduled for August; Pride will happen in November. I know! I’m verklempt too. However, there’s still an awful lot of fun to be had this June in Palm Springs. And I hear they’ll be back soon.

Oh, before we get to events, it’s good to mention that we’ve got a few specials going on. Each boutique hotel has a different vibe and their own brand of swagger. Make sure to check them out here.

Okay. June. Planned events, then some build-your-own adventures. Let’s go!

Special Events

June 22-28 – At the top of the list is Palm Springs Short Film Festival. Per Variety, “Palm Springs Shortfest will be the first film festival of 2021 in California to hold all of its screenings in-theater when the event takes place at the Camelot Theatres (aka Palm Springs Cultural Center). Check them out too.

June 17th – Cast & Crew screening of Palm Springs Women in Film & Television’s two short films, “Accidental Date” and “Aftermath.” 6pm reception, 7pm screening followed by a Q&A for both films. Camelot Theater (PS Cultural Center) in Palm Springs.

Oscars – they keep adding events (yay!), so here’s what’s listed as of this writing. Check the link to see if there are additions.

  • Melissa Manchester @ Oscars June 17 & 18
  • Gunhild Carling @ Oscars June 10 5:30 & 9:30, Sweden’s Queen of Swing. Famous for playing trombone, she also plays bagpipes, trumpet, recorder, string instruments and will often play them all in one song, sometimes casually breaking into a tap dance or singing.

Four Twenty Bank and Lounge – The dispensary, lounge, and entertainment venue is located on Palm Canyon and Baristo (this is important, used to be at 777 Palm Canyon). They’ve got a great stage, but check their calendar. There was a Bowie tribute band and a Journey tribute band scheduled when I checked a day ago, but they’re gone, and others added. Things are still coming together on their line-up, but the Lounge is still pretty badass.

PS Underground: Book well in advance; these are the hottest shows in town. Ticketing links below.

  • June 11:  IMAGINE. A multiple course journey of music and food. “What would it feel like to climb into music and let it tantalize your every sense?”
  • June 13: GOSPEL –  a multiple course Sunday brunch with fantastic food and toe-tapping, hand clapping gospel music from the band onstage.
  • June 18: ENIGMA – a puzzling or inexplicable experience or occurrence. “Things are not always as they seem as we navigate through this feast for all senses. …an over-the-top unexplainable out-of-the-box immersive dinner experience.”
  • June 25: LIGHT – “Wear white and bring to the table an open mind and a sense of adventure. Prepare yourselves for an evening of the truly unexpected.
  • June 27: OVATION – A jazzed up Sunday Brunch, “Surprise performers and musicians…free-flowing, bubbly and Bloody Mary’s are included.

On-Going Events

I’m recycling some of these from last month because, FUN! Once again, an asterisk denotes that I have been and it’s fabulous.

*Thursday afternoons are free at Palm Springs Art Museum from 5-7 p.m. Make a reservation.

Saturdays: Saturday Night Flight at PS Air Bar.”Boarding time”  5 p.m.

Wine tastings at Bouschet. They keep adding dates so I’m just linking to their website. Also, their California Caesar is bowl-licking good (the fancy bowl makes it hard, though), and a friend likes their macaroni salad so much he asked for the recipe.

Saturdays: Not Your Grandma’s Bingo at Chill Bar from 12-2 p.m. The name says it all.

*Sundays: Palm Springs Drag Brunch, with Rosemary Galore and her queenly court at Roly China Fusion.

*Saturdays and Sundays – I have written about Palm Springs magic before, but Crystal Fantasy is our go-to guide for crystals, sage, tarot cards, and all things material to interact with or distract the spiritual realm. Saturday and Sundays they have a Psychic/Healing Arts Fair, where you pick your psychic (or did they pick you, hmmm?). Check the website for times and the cool classes they have during the week.

*Sundays: It’s the Pro-Jazz Jam from 2-5 p.m. at Palm Canyon Roadhouse. It’s all the best players in the Coachella Valley led by solid jazz musician, Mikale Karr.

And, drumroll please, the most raucous dance party in Palm Springs is back! It’s Oscar’s T-Dance, Sunday’s from 4-8 pm. You can hear it blocks away. Mostly gay men, but I’ve been and it was a gas!

Day-Time Activities

*Like Mid-Mod? Or the architecturally significant homes of the stars? Palm Springs Life has a self-guided tour app. It’s a great fix as we wait for tours to restart, and Modernism Week to return.

*CannaBUS Express Tours, there’s no other like it. Any canna-curiosity you might have will be replaced with knowledge from their Extreme Green Team. BONUS: it’s hella-fun.

If you’re staying in a boutique hotel, there’s a good chance there’s work by a local artist hanging on a wall, or sitting on a table. That’s because creativity is off-the-charts flowing unlike the rain in Palm Springs. Art has many expressions, and at the indoor Mojave Flea Trading Post, artists and crafters of every ilk come together in a 10,000 sq. ft. marketplace of makers & merchants from Joshua Tree, the Coachella Valley, and beyond.

And guys, check this out: you can take a ride in an old warbird at Palm Springs Air Museum! The Warbird Ride has six options: C-47 Skytrain, T-28 Trojan, PT-17 Stearman, P-51 Mustang and the T-33 Shooting Star Jet.  While you’re there, make sure to take a tour of the *Palm Springs Air Museum. It’s cooler than you might think.

That’s it for events, but I’m super excited to play show and tell with all of the fun and funky spots for your Instagram page. I found some fabulous filters, so I used them. Hope you likey. It’s my first try. You’ll find out why this chair sits on a pedestal.

As always, please shop and stay at locally-owned businesses. And if you go to any of our hotels or enjoy our recommendations, please be sure to tag us with your photos on IG, or @palmspringspreferredsmallhotel (yeah, it’s a lot to type, but we appreciate it!)  #PSPSH

Well, actually, it is 11 days, but the banner still flies, calling it Modernism Week. With approximately 350 scheduled events running from Feb. 15-25, you can imagine the buzz.

Hopefully, you have visited the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to find a place to stay while you experience Modernism Week. If you do not have a reservation, it is best to call the hotels directly because there may be cancellations at your favorite property. Besides, they appreciate learning ahead of time what your specific needs are to make it a perfect visit.

What can you expect at Modernism Week? 

There will be lots of people. Last year, an estimated 105,477 visitors found their way to our city to learn and celebrate mid-century modern design, architecture, culture, and art.

Keep flexible. Many of the events are already sold out. Check here what is still available and purchase your tickets before you arrive.

We highly recommend taking the double-decker bus tour if it is still available. The tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable, and you learn a wealth of information about the architecture and history of Palm Springs.

New this year is an Illuminated Twilight Tour. This excursion will surely provide a look at the beautiful lighting of homes in Palm Springs. Expect to be awed by the creative lighting systems, sometimes even showcasing our ancient palm trees.

Note: All double-deck tours leave from the Hyatt Hotel.

Where do I start when I arrive? 

Welcome to CAMP. Photo: Kathy Condon

The CAMP (Community and Meeting Place) is an excellent place to start. It is located in the Hyatt Palm Springs on North Palm Canyon Drive. The CAMP is also the place to relax, meet friends, and talk to some vendors who share your love for anything mid-century. Pick up a schedule or check the Modernism website, for there are many things you can see for free.

Note: Free underground parking here is plentiful.

How should I dress for Modernism Week?  

We would love to say we will have high 70s and 80s weather. However, we never know what to expect in February. So, the best advice we can give you is to bring layers. Our weather can fluctuate 30 degrees between day and night, so you should not leave your warm jacket behind. You will also want to bring your walking shoes; if you are anything like most of us, you start at one place and get intrigued by something a few blocks away.

Where can I dine while Visiting Palm Springs?

If you have been here and have a favorite restaurant, make your reservations now. During Modernism Week, we locals know it is practically impossible to walk into a restaurant to dine without a reservation.

Here is a list of some Happy Hours presently being offered, but you may want to call to see if they change their hours during Modernism Week.

Should I go hiking during Modernism Week? 

Absolutely, though you may find trails a little more crowded than usual. More than likely the weather will be perfect for outdoor activities. We recommend wearing a hat, using suntan lotion, and taking more water than you think you need. Here is a list of some of the trails in Palm Springs.

Transportation in Palm Springs 

A red double-decker bus takes visitors around Palm Springs, California, during Modernism Week

One way to get around during Modernism Week is by double-decker bus. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

If you decide to park your car and let others do the driving, be assured we have Lyft, Uber, taxis, and buses readily available. Getting around the city is not difficult. Remember, we are 10 minutes from the Palm Springs International Airport, with over 10 direct flights from various cities in Canada and the United States.

Is it possible to rent bicycles to travel between venues?

Yes. Palm Springs is doing a great job of marking bicycle paths on our major roads. Many neighborhoods, such as the beautiful Las Palmas area, are delightful to visit via bicycle. It is one of the older neighborhoods dotted with massive estates.

Again, we recommend you reserve a bicycle rental before you arrive. Some vendors rent bikes, and you can also see if your resort provides them; many of our small boutique hotels include bikes as one of their amenities.

What if I can’t get tickets for places I want to see? 

It’s always fun to explore inside homes during Modernism Week. Photo: Kathy Condon

There is a solution. In October, there is a smaller version of Modernism Week called Fall Modernism Week. Dates have not been announced for 2024, but if you sign up for the Modernism newsletter, you will be among the first to be notified.

In any case, once you know the dates and want to come, be sure to visit Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels and get your hotel reservations. Word is getting out that crowds are less in the fall, and you can be assured of outstanding weather.

Modernism is fun, engaging, and a unique experience not duplicated anywhere in the world. Palm Springs’ motto is “Like No Place Else.” Once you come to Modernism Week, you will understand why that fits our desert community.

Twice a year, Palm Springs celebrates its architectural roots. We don’t go all the way back to colonial times because we don’t have them; back then California was part of Mexico. Europeans began “settling” here in the mid-1800s with the exception of the Spaniards, who’d been stomping all over California and beyond since the days of Montezuma (1500s). And before that? Native Americans lived here for thousands of years.

Back in the mid-1800s, the U.S. government gave land to the Southern Pacific Railroad, which used it to entice people out west with a promise of land — for a price. That money would help them bring the railroad out west. East Coast Europeans started showing up in the mid-1800s, and by 1890 they had a hotel, The Palm Springs Hotel.

It took about 25 years for Palm Springs to become known for its health benefits, including the healing dry air and the hot springs (agua caliente). This was thanks to the arrival of Nellie Coffman in 1909, who made her Desert Inn the place to visit in Palm Springs.

And then came the celebrities. Just a two-hour drive (back then) from the studios in Los Angeles, it was exactly the contractually allowed time and distance actors were allowed from their respective studios. An added bonus? Paparazzi were not paid for trips over 100 miles. And bingo, the sexcapades were in full swing.

Every single decade from then on has stories about celebrities here in Palm Springs. Many of them were buying vacation homes, and architects were starting to sit up and take notice of the desertscapes and what they could accomplish here.

And now we’re at Modernism Week, the celebration of all of those guys who came here and turned Palm Springs into a mid-century modern architectural paradise (along with our other paradise qualities!).

So, here’s what you can expect Oct. 19-22: 50 events! What?? You can make just as hearty of a meal out of all things Modernism in October as you can at the February bonanza. Let’s have a look-see!

It’s my party!

Cocktail parties: There’s two. Sinatra always sells out, I think before it even hits the internet. Okay, that’s not true, but you know what I mean. The second one looks to be fun as well, so book it, Danno!

Preview party: This is the first soiree and the biggest.

Lizzie and the Triggermen: Called “one of the hottest swing bands in L.A.” by Good Day L.A., Lizzy & The Triggermen has been making waves since bursting onto the SoCal scene.

Mixology cocktail clinics: Held at Mr. Lyon’s, one of Palm Springs most iconic fine dining restaurants. Oct. 19, 20, 21, 22, with two time slots at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Mid-Century Moderns is not on the schedule of official MW activities, but absolutely worth the price of the ticket. It’s a very fun jukebox musical, not for the faint of heart. Begins Oct. 6 on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, with multiple showtimes including a 2 p.m. matinee for after brunch.

Cruising through town

Bus tours — There are a ton of them, and this year they’ve divided them all up by neighborhood. All are a good time, and there is even a twilight tour where certain buildings are beautifully lit to show off their architecture. It’s pretty cool. I am a guide on one of those this fall.

A Modernism Week bus tour. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs

Here are the (other, heh heh) celebrity tour guides:

Charles Phoenix: Mid-century pop culture expert Charles Phoenix is a performer, author, explorer, and collector celebrating classic and kitschy American life and style, who has appeared on Jay Leno’s Garage and Conan and been a judge on Cake Wars Christmas and Nailed It.

He’s known for the Big Retro Trailer Slide Show. Lavishing commentary on the very best images from his massive collection of vintage “flea market found” Kodachrome slides, he shares a wide variety of spectacular scenes, décor, classic cars, festive fashions, potlucks, parties, parades, and picturesque locations.

Bella da Ball: Bella is our ambassador drag queen; she stands 6’4” tall without heels. Heavily involved in Pride, and many other activities, Bella also hosts Drag Queen Bingo & Trivia at the Ace Hotel on Monday nights. She recently resumed her Drag Queen Storytime at Palm Springs Library, and we couldn’t be happier to have her back.

Here are a few places I’ve always wanted to see:

Frey House II — Albert Frey had a unique understanding of function, form, practicality, and love for the desert landscape, all combined to provide us this extraordinary legacy. It includes a free day at the Art Museum, and a ride on a bus up to the property. If you go, tell me about it please!

Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palm Estates — Frank owned a lot of houses here in the desert, but this is the one that used to have his own plane out back, and where he used to hoist a flag to let friends and neighbors know it was cocktail hour. It’s also where he lived and fought with Ava Gardner.

Some of these tickets require deep pockets, but there are also free events you can attend and still feel all mid-mod-y.

Free events

Friday, Oct. 20

9 a.m. “Lost, Saved & Endangered: Modernist Architecture in Palm Springs”: Palm Springs Preservation Foundation board president Gary Johns will present his popular slide lecture, “Lost, Saved & Endangered: Modernist Architecture in Palm Springs.” At Palm Springs Cultural Center, 2300 E Baristo Rd., Palm Springs.

11 a.m. The Design of Herbert W. Burns: Palm Springs Preservation Foundation board vice president Steven Keylon will present an entertaining overview of architectural designer Herbert W. Burns’ life and career. At the Palm Springs Cultural Center.

A quick note on the Cultural Center. With everything it offers, it’s gearing up to be a major presence in Palm Springs. It was also built in 1967 as the first cineplex in Palm Springs.

A pool with loungers and palm trees in the background

The Three Fifty Hotel was designed by Herbert W. Burns. Photo courtesy of The Three Fifty Hotel

Saturday, Oct. 21

9 a.m. Hot Purple Energy Architectural Bike Ride: Join us as we pedal our way through architecturally significant neighborhoods in South Palm Springs and highlight mid-century homes. Indian Canyons Golf Resort Clubhouse parking lot, 1100 E. Murray Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.

This is a terrific area to explore. The two golf courses are gorgeous, and Lykken Trail is on South Palm Canyon and Murray Drive. The Walt Disney Fountain is here as are some mid-century homes that you can see on one of the bus tours (there used to be an app for $5 with all of the architecturally significant spots in P.S. on them, so do a Google). Make sure to grab breakfast or lunch at the Indian Canyon Clubhouses, and then drive through the Indian Canyons neighborhood. 

If you’re a hiker, Lykken Trail dumps onto South Palm Canyon just past Murray Canyon, and if you keep going down South Palm Canyon, you’ll hit one of the greatest hiking spots in Palm Springs: the actual Indian Canyons Reserve.

2 p.m. The Alexanders book signing with author James Harlan: James Harlan will also give a talk about the famous Palm Springs developers. ​​Palm Springs Historical Society, The McCallum Adobe, 221 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.

The Palm Springs Historical Society is located in the Village Green next to Cornelia White’s home, which was relocated from where it was first built, at The Palm Springs Hotel. It’s also across the street from Lulu, the best people watching spot in town.

4 to 9 p.m. Shag’s October Modernism Print Release Party: Join artist Shag and guest Nancy Sinatra for a book signing and print release party at The Shag Store, featuring complimentary cocktails, live music, and other fun surprises. The Shag Store, 745 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.

The Shag Store — I’ve never gone in because I’d feel like an imposter; I can’t afford a Shag piece, but it’s a party and everyone’s invited!!

Sunday, Oct. 22

8 a.m. to Noon. Modernism Yard Sale: Brought to you by Chris Bale Homes and hosted by H3K Home+Design, this annual sale has become one of Modernism Week’s most popular FREE events! H3K is high-end, but on the more affordable end. H3K Design+Home parking lot, 501 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.

Here’s a link to all the rest. Use the sorting function and “category” to help you get just where your little heart desires. And you’re gonna need a place to stay, right? Here’s a list of the nearly 80 boutique hotels in Palm Springs; if you’re looking for something mid-century modern, or even more old-timey, you can use that sorting button to find your perfect stay.

I’ll be waving at you from the top of my bus!

The Orbit In is a perfect example of mid-century modern architecture and design. Photo courtesy of Orbit In

Happy New Year!

The holiday season has gone its merry way, and we’re all feeling a little less flush in the pocket and a little more snug in the waistband. And that’s okay! We’ve got a full year to refill the coffers and pare down the pooch so screw it, let’s put it all on the back burner and have some glorious “it’s all about me” time basking in Palm Springs’ hospitality. You worked hard all year and you deserve a break, damnit. 

It’s hot tubbing, spa treatments, and hot toddies time! Come on. You know you wanna.

Before we get started, a wee bit of bad news: Palm Springs International Film Festival (PSIFF) has canceled its gala due to the new and highly unwelcome Omicron coronavirus variant. Keep an eye on PSIFF’s website for schedules and possible changes. So far, it’s the only event to (wisely) take that precaution, but these are strange times. Everything can change in a nano.

And now, it’s time to plan that “me” time!

Courtesy of PS Air Bar

Starting January 2, check out Disco Boozy Brunch at PS Air Bar. Recurring weekly on Sundays until March 27. Also, check out their Saturday night movies and grab yourself some fine wine from their downstairs parent, Bouschet. And by grab, I mean pay for it.

Desert Rose Playhouse has the world premiere of a new musical, Mid-Century Moderns. Set to the music of 1966, it’s the story of a plucky Wisconsin widow who transforms from frump to fabulous when she finds herself at the center of modernity in Palm Springs. Featuring the music of Tom Jones, Petula Clark, Lesley Gore, Frank and Nancy Sinatra, The Association, The Monkees, and many more. Sounds fun!

Palm Springs Air Museum has tons of great events coming up, including a show about Amelia Earhart. They also still have the Warbird Experience.

PS Underground 
Lots of fun. You never know what to expect. All of their shows are delightful, delicious, and wildly entertaining.

The Purple Room. Photo courtesy of The Purple Room

Purple Room offers entertainment six days a week, with ticketed shows on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Always Rat-Packy, and always classy. I’ll say it again: You’ve gotta see The Judy Show.

Palm Springs Tramway
Wear layers and heavy coats for the top.

Cascade Lounge at Agua Spa in downtown Palm Springs offers Caliente Comedy every Friday night, and Thursdays belongs to Jazzville.

Oscar’s is always coming up with innovative entertainment, so make sure to check their website. Every Sunday is the T Dance and Bitchiest Brunch.

Toucan’s Tiki Lounge is known for the city’s longest continuously running drag show, Tommi Rose & The Playgirls, as well as weekly theme nights, ranging from Latin Fever Monday to Neon Thursday to Dirty Pop Saturday. The club also brings in top tier cabaret and performance talent as part of Toucans Live on Stage.

CannaBUS Express Tours Canna-Sprinter. Photo courtesy of CannaBUS Express Tours

CannaBUS Express Tours
Greater Palm Springs is basically the Silicon Valley of cannabis. This is a very lively and informative 3-hour tour behind the scenes of the big business.

V Wine Lounge has music on Mondays, tacos and margaritas on Tuesdays, and karaoke on Wednesdays. Plus, they have a bomb selection of unusual wines. The lounge has a super cool vibe, so check it out.

Keep an eye out for a new franchise restaurant opening at 190 E. Indian Canyon later this month. Although these restaurants can be found all over Florida and in many other states, this will be the first I Heart Mac and Cheese in California. Comes with a side of Lipitor. (I’m kidding. It’s extra.)

Every Thursday is the Village Fest, every Saturday is the Certified Farmers Market, and the first Sunday of the month is the Vintage Market. If you’re craving vintage items on a day that is not the first Sunday of every month, then head on over to Sunny Dunes and Industrial Place and the Antiques Mall.

Oasis Music Festival is brand new event, and man do they have a lot of great acts during their five-day run. January 26 to 30 are the dates, and the venues are all over Palm Springs. What a great way to hear some great music and check off some of those venues you’ve been meaning to try. 

The Shag poster for Modernism Week 2022. Photo courtesy of Modernism Week

Notes to your future fun selves:

February is Modernism Week. It is likely many events have sold out (enthusiasts be enthusing), so get cracking on signing up. If you’re too late, you can always scratch your mid-mod itch with a copy of their new Shag poster here, or pop into Shag’s store to get an original. This is the fifth poster for Modernism Week by the local artist.

BNP Paribas Open is in March, so start planning now.

It’s never too early to prepare for Coachella or Stagecoach. Start booking rooms and getting tickets now. Looks like Coachella is already waitlisted!

Reminder: We love you and every single one of our neighbors, which means indoor events require a vax card. I got an electronic copy of mine here, then told Siri to take a screenshot and saved it in my iPhone’s Notes. Super simple.

Stay safe, and I hope to see you around town!