Blogger Debra Schroeder of Traveling Well for Less found herself captivated by the Albert Frey-designed Monkey Tree Hotel, with its mid-century modern architecture and fun vintage decor.
Well, actually, it is 11 days, but the banner still flies, calling it Modernism Week. With approximately 350 scheduled events running from Feb. 15-25, you can imagine the buzz.
Hopefully, you have visited the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels website to find a place to stay while you experience Modernism Week. If you do not have a reservation, it is best to call the hotels directly because there may be cancellations at your favorite property. Besides, they appreciate learning ahead of time what your specific needs are to make it a perfect visit.
What can you expect at Modernism Week?
There will be lots of people. Last year, an estimated 105,477 visitors found their way to our city to learn and celebrate mid-century modern design, architecture, culture, and art.
Keep flexible. Many of the events are already sold out. Check here what is still available and purchase your tickets before you arrive.
We highly recommend taking the double-decker bus tour if it is still available. The tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable, and you learn a wealth of information about the architecture and history of Palm Springs.
New this year is an Illuminated Twilight Tour. This excursion will surely provide a look at the beautiful lighting of homes in Palm Springs. Expect to be awed by the creative lighting systems, sometimes even showcasing our ancient palm trees.
Note: All double-deck tours leave from the Hyatt Hotel.
Where do I start when I arrive?
Welcome to CAMP. Photo: Kathy Condon
The CAMP (Community and Meeting Place) is an excellent place to start. It is located in the Hyatt Palm Springs on North Palm Canyon Drive. The CAMP is also the place to relax, meet friends, and talk to some vendors who share your love for anything mid-century. Pick up a schedule or check the Modernism website, for there are many things you can see for free.
Note: Free underground parking here is plentiful.
How should I dress for Modernism Week?
We would love to say we will have high 70s and 80s weather. However, we never know what to expect in February. So, the best advice we can give you is to bring layers. Our weather can fluctuate 30 degrees between day and night, so you should not leave your warm jacket behind. You will also want to bring your walking shoes; if you are anything like most of us, you start at one place and get intrigued by something a few blocks away.
Where can I dine while Visiting Palm Springs?
If you have been here and have a favorite restaurant, make your reservations now. During Modernism Week, we locals know it is practically impossible to walk into a restaurant to dine without a reservation.
Here is a list of some Happy Hours presently being offered, but you may want to call to see if they change their hours during Modernism Week.
Should I go hiking during Modernism Week?
Absolutely, though you may find trails a little more crowded than usual. More than likely the weather will be perfect for outdoor activities. We recommend wearing a hat, using suntan lotion, and taking more water than you think you need. Here is a list of some of the trails in Palm Springs.
Transportation in Palm Springs
One way to get around during Modernism Week is by double-decker bus. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs
If you decide to park your car and let others do the driving, be assured we have Lyft, Uber, taxis, and buses readily available. Getting around the city is not difficult. Remember, we are 10 minutes from the Palm Springs International Airport, with over 10 direct flights from various cities in Canada and the United States.
Is it possible to rent bicycles to travel between venues?
Yes. Palm Springs is doing a great job of marking bicycle paths on our major roads. Many neighborhoods, such as the beautiful Las Palmas area, are delightful to visit via bicycle. It is one of the older neighborhoods dotted with massive estates.
Again, we recommend you reserve a bicycle rental before you arrive. Some vendors rent bikes, and you can also see if your resort provides them; many of our small boutique hotels include bikes as one of their amenities.
What if I can’t get tickets for places I want to see?
It’s always fun to explore inside homes during Modernism Week. Photo: Kathy Condon
There is a solution. In October, there is a smaller version of Modernism Week called Fall Modernism Week. Dates have not been announced for 2024, but if you sign up for the Modernism newsletter, you will be among the first to be notified.
In any case, once you know the dates and want to come, be sure to visit Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels and get your hotel reservations. Word is getting out that crowds are less in the fall, and you can be assured of outstanding weather.
Modernism is fun, engaging, and a unique experience not duplicated anywhere in the world. Palm Springs’ motto is “Like No Place Else.” Once you come to Modernism Week, you will understand why that fits our desert community.
Downtown Palm Springs (roughly defined as from the north end of Alejo Rd. and south to Ramon Rd.) offers visitors a vibrant combination of the old and the new. The sidewalks are wide, the mid-century and Spanish-style storefronts are charming, and the lovely palm trees sway in soft breezes. This is all enhanced by the weather, which is beautiful, no matter what time of year you visit.
Mary Jo Ginther, Director of the Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism, says, “The City’s goal, along with the business owners and residents, is to retain the character and ambiance of Palm Springs for visitors and locals alike, while providing new development to keep everything up to date. We are all very proud of the way our City has developed over the last 20 years.”
So much has happened in the last two decades. The old-fashioned plaza mall, which had been closed for 15 years, has been revitalized and the area is highlighted by outstanding restaurants and enticing shopping.
A variety of small boutique hotels in the downtown area offer visitors enchanting options for personalized accommodations in lushly landscaped settings. Many of these hotels were favorite getaways for the rat pack during Hollywood’s heyday in Palm Springs and they still exude the charm of that magical era. Some of these beautifully designed retreats, all members of the Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels association, include Casa Cody Country Inn, Andalusian Court, Ingleside Inn, Holiday House, La Serena Villas, La Maison, and Alcazar Palm Springs.. Several of these hotels include wonderful restaurants such as The Pantry at Holiday House, Melvyn’s at the Ingleside Inn, Acuzar at La Serena Villas, and Birba and Cheekys at Alcazar.
Plans for future expansion and renovation of the downtown area are underway. Discussions include renovating the historic Town and Country Center to much of its original mid-century modern condition. These plans are important because this area connects Palm Canyon Drive to Indian Canyon Drive, which is becoming two-way instead of one-way. This will improve the area for pedestrian traffic.
The city is expanding eastward toward the airport. The Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians, which has been very involved in the economic development of Palm Springs, is developing an exciting new campus with a cultural museum, bath house and spa, and an expanded casino. Construction is also just starting for a spacious 10,000-seat arena.
The Tahquitz Corridor going from downtown to the airport has been preserved. For example, an historical building designed by celebrated architect Hugh Kaptur has been restored to its original mid-century modern design rather than replaced by a high rise that had been contemplated by some developers. The once almost-empty building is now flourishing with retailers, a coffee bar, a wine bar, and offices.
Since the areas being developed are owned by both the city and the Agua Caliente tribe (in a checkerboard pattern), some plots of land are controlled by the city and some by the tribe, but they have worked well together over the years to develop the area. There is also a very healthy preservationist community that is involved in many of these plans and residents are active in decision-making with great value placed on buildings that are unique to the mid-century heritage of Palm Springs. These renovations have brought back visitors who value the historical significance of the area.
Much credit for development goes to the businesses putting their resources back into the city. Ten years ago, there was no real food scene in Palm Springs and now many wonderful restaurants are thriving. Tours have also exploded, with biking tours, mid-century modern tours, hiking tours, and celebrity bus tours. There is even a foodie’s Desert Tasty Tour and the Palm Springs Historical Society has tours every Saturday morning with a focus on the town’s unique history.
Downtown Palm Springs is perfect for walkers. You can walk from many of the small boutique hotels and explore the shops, restaurants, and architecture. People are friendly and the town is safe. The vibe is relaxing with something for everyone.
The city’s slogan — “Like No Place Else” — is so true. And the city’s planners intend to maintain and continue to develop its special character.
The Cole Hotel and Courtyard
It is time to pack your bags and head to Palm Springs and the fabulously restored retro hotel called The Cole. Locals drop by on weekends for their fabulous brunches. Even celebrities are starting to discover it, so make your reservations while you still can.
The Cole Hotel Sign
A getaway to Palm Springs offers some spectacular views. By plane, you see the windmills scattered on the Coachella Valley floor. If you are driving in with your convertible top-down, you pass the miles of windmills standing there like soldiers guarding the valley.
Whether arriving by taxi or convertible, The Cole, located on the northernmost end of Palm Springs on Highway 111, is waiting to provide you with every comfort you were dreaming of for your escape from the city.
The Cole Hotel Inviting Entrance
With the soothing sound of the entryway water fountain and the 50s and 60s vibes radiating everywhere from the colorful courtyard, it is easy to start to relax into the casual and fun style that awaits you.
The Cole Hotel Registration and Bar Area.
Gone is the big registration desk one has come to expect. There is no need for one since all your information is already safely guarded in the hotel’s new online registration system. The bartender or the assigned person to check you in will be there to greet you and hand you your card key.
The Cole Hotel Welcome Package
A welcome gift awaits you. Protected by a see-through bag are a mask, sanitizer, and most importantly, a barcode that will help you ease into your lifestyle during your stay. Contained on the barcode are the WIFI password and instructions on running all the appliances in your room. Perhaps, even more importantly, are the food/drink and minibar menus and the pool and open bar hours.
The Cole Hotel Welcome Beverage
Thirsty after your journey? No problem. At the registration desk, cocktails are waiting for you, along with a non-alcoholic drink if you want. Try something new like their cocktails served in a can. Many visitors have decided to take this tasty alternative to a traditional cocktail home with them.
The Cole is a dog-friendly hotel. Since you registered online, they already know the name of your dog. Their pet gift pack includes a “Pet Relief Map” of the grounds with a bag. However, we think your dog will be most pleased with the treat.
The Cole Hotel Art Décor Rooms
With the sun shining and key in hand, it is time to wander up to your room.
Opening the brightly colored door reveals a well-appointed space with contemporary art and sleek furnishings. The high-end linens were carefully selected and their luxurious will make you feel like you are an extraordinary person, indeed.
The Cole Hotel Partnership with Biscuit and Counter
With no full-time chef at present, The Cole developed a partnership with Biscuit and Counter, a new business known for its exquisite, melt-in-your-mouth biscuits. When you stay here Thursday through Sunday, you can order some of these tempting biscuits in a variety of ways. They are so good; you will more likely find locals stopping in for their brunch specials.
The Cole Hotel Swimming Pool and Spa
The Cole’s Manager, David Smith, takes immense pride in his staff. He remarked, “I have an incredible staff, and they have been crossed trained so anyone can handle any request you might have during your relaxing stay.”
“Hopefully, we had handled the little details before you arrived, for your room has been inspected at least three times. But if we missed something, all you have to do is ask.”
The Cole Hotel Manager David Smith
If you didn’t met David earlier, he is sure to wander over while you are sitting by the pool sipping your cocktail. David’s pride in this property is evident with every word he utters. “I have been so fortunate because I have been here from the very beginning. To see it transformed to the vision the owner had has been one of the most extraordinary chapters of my life.”
What are you waiting for? Go online and reserve your room. Yes, we expect to fill up during the summer too, so the sooner you make your travel plans, the better. There is so much to explore in Palm Springs. However, if you decide you just want to stay by the pool, we have you covered.
We forgot to mention that the Cole shows movies by the pool too. Since it 21 plus hotel, they are not planning on showing any cartoons.
See you soon.
Orbit In to the Palm Springs modern vibe and leave your worries behind as you lounge in luxurious mid-century style. Breathtaking mountain views, cruiser bikes, and cocktails, all served up at a small boutique hotel where vintage modernism meets the 21st century. Click here to read more about this fabulous property.
A report released by Greater Palm Springs states that during Modernism Week this February, 115,000 people attended 500 scheduled events around the city. Now more than ever, visitors are fascinated by the modernist and mid-century architecture abundant here in Palm Springs.
Where can I find modernism homes in Palm Springs?
The homes are scattered throughout the city limits. That is why Modernism Week offers a double-decker bus tour with a knowledgeable guide who shares pertinent information during the 2.5-hour journey through various neighborhoods. Often, these historic homes are located close to several Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels.
Why do we have so many modernist homes in Palm Springs?
Frank Sinatra’s home is just one of the celebrity abodes in Palm Springs. Photo by Kathy Condon
In the early 1950s and 1960s, architects thriving in Los Angeles became disillusioned with all the restrictions on design and building construction. They wanted to design new rooflines and use materials like metal and tin, which were prohibited in the city of Los Angeles. At the same time, Palm Springs was becoming a playground for movie stars, who were allowed to travel only 100 miles from their production stages. With incredible weather most of the year, Palm Springs was a logical weekend trip.
These celebrities stayed at the Ingleside Inn, Villa Royale, and Casa Cody, and became enamored with the climate and lifestyle of Palm Springs. Many decided to buy land and build homes in the area. With few architects in Palm Springs at the time, they looked to Los Angeles and ultimately hired architects from there. These were the same architects who were eager to challenge themselves by utilizing the beautiful desert landscape as their canvas.
What is modernist architectural design?
One of the reasons people come to the area is they appreciate the feeling of being outside so much of the year. Thus, one characteristic of this design is grand walls of glass. The architects strategically placed these walls to allow residents to view the glorious mountains at any time of day. Outside the glass walls, the natural environment was preserved as much as possible, with care taken to ensure the habitat remained authentic to the desert landscape.
With few restrictions, metal could now be used to create unique rooflines. They could soar high, be curved, or even be incorporated into the same unique structure. The architects were not afraid to experiment with materials and use rocks in creative ways never used before in building construction.
Why did these modernist homes survive?
Stone and colorful roofs are often found on mid-century modern homes. Photo by Kathy Condon
During the late 1970s, the economy was far from being stellar, and Palm Springs’s mid-century style lost its luster. People were not flocking to the city like they did in the ’50s and ’60s, and many of these buildings became neglected. In the late 1990s and 2000s, visionaries who saw the strong bones in these homes and buildings began buying them, reveling in the idea of bringing them back to their original glory.
Many historians believe that if there had not been a downturn in the economy and a decline in travel, many of these beautiful structures would have been destroyed. Now, thanks to committed citizens, there are many structures on the National Register of Historic Places.
The birth of Modernism Week
A group of citizens, recognizing the beauty of these structures and their relevance to our history, organized Modernism Week in 2006. It has now grown to 14 days in February; Modernism Week in October, despite its name, is a four-day event. Initially, the October event was organized exclusively for the press, but today, it offers visitors the opportunity to see many of the homes and structures.
I suggest visiting Modernism Week and signing up for their newsletter to stay informed when tickets become available. The popular homes and events sell out quickly, as people from all over the world come to attend this exciting event.
One last thing to notice
Modernism is characterized by its use of monochrome colors. Homeowners want to add their unique touch, so on your walks or drive through town, you will see bright blue, yellow, and red front doors.
Find your hotel with a modernist or mid-century vibe
The Del Marcos is a mid-century modern hotel designed by William F. Cody in 1947. Photo courtesy of The Del Marcos Hotel
Many of the city’s small boutique hotels were built in the ’50s and ’60s, and have been restored to their grandeur. Staying at these mid-century modern properties provides guests with a unique opportunity to experience what it was like during the 1950s and 1960s in Palm Springs.
Author: Brittany Ryan
Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of downtown sits the newly renovated Bellevue Oasis, a modern, tech-friendly oasis in Palm Springs. With a streamlined digital procedure for self-check-in, this boutique hotel sets the standard for safe social distancing.
Enjoying the pool at Bellevue Oasis Photo Credit: Brittany Ryan
Prior to arriving, you’re provided with a keyless entry code for both the gate and your room. Private travelers will appreciate the ability to quickly and easily check in and out without any lengthy procedure or human interaction.
From the outside, Bellevue Oasis seems rather unassuming, however this boutique hotel surprises its guests right as they hear the joyful chirp of the keyless entry granting you access to the property. Upon stepping through the threshold, guests are greeted with the exotic smell of jasmine from the gardens and sounds of birds singing in the trees. Perfectly manicured lawn and bright white guest rooms surround the focal point of Bellevue Oasis – an Insta-worthy swimming pool (an essential for every chic boutique hotel in Palm Springs)!
Bellevue Oasis Whirlpool in Palm Springs. Photo Credit: Brittany Ryan
The refreshing pool, heated seasonally, is encircled by white lounge chairs. Retro pagoda-style patio umbrellas with alternating turquoise and white panels compliment the pool’s crystal clear blue water. Hidden away under the shade of tropical trees sits a heated whirlpool for guests to relax in. Guests can ask Alexa to play their favorite tunes poolside as they sunbathe and swim.
The ground-level guestrooms at Bellevue Oasis are low-profile to ensure perfect views of the desert mountains from the pool. Each guestroom features a private front patio covered in stylish black and white geometric tiles.
Bellevue Oasis Front Patio in Palm Springs. Photo Credit: Brittany Ryan
Bellevue Oasis’ recently renovated rooms are contemporary with a touch of Hollywood glam. Despite a low-profile exterior, every room features high-vaulted ceilings to create a more open, sophisticated atmosphere. Special touches like velvet accents, mirrored dressers, and floor to ceiling marble bathrooms create a luxe ambiance.
As a former network TV producer and a BBC World News journalist, Owner Tayfun King has a keen eye for details. It was important to him that Bellevue Oasis capture the essence of Palm Springs.
“I was captivated by the culture and architecture that Palm Springs had to offer,” says Tayfun. “I wanted to preserve the 1950s Palm Springs aesthetic, while incorporating a global perspective and localized style to the hotel.”
Bellevue Oasis Bedroom in Palm Springs. Photo Credit: Brittany Ryan
Tayfun has curated an aesthetic that many cannot master – Bellevue Oasis blends the best of mid-century modern design elements with the modern luxuries of today. Some of the guestrooms come with a full kitchen and dining area, while every room is outfitted with food and drink options for purchase. Keeping with the tech-friendly theme, all T.V.s at Bellevue Oasis are Roku-enabled and come with Hulu Live.
At first glance, it appears that the room tour ends there, but wait, there’s more! Not only do rooms feature a private front patio, but they also have a private back patio, decorated in the same chic black and white geometric tile. There, guests can enjoy a cocktail or play mini golf in the back of the property, steps outside of the guestroom.
Bellevue Oasis Back Patio in Palm Springs. Photo Credit: Brittany Ryan
One may think that a mobile self check-in may eliminate the chance for a personal touch at Bellevue Oasis, but that is not the case. Tayfun is renowned for his commitment to excellence and customer service, and these values have been adopted by the Bellevue Oasis staff. Hotel Manager, Adam Ramirez, knows guests by name and is often seen on-property tending to guest needs.
“We want our guests to know that we are there for them,” Adam explains. “If guests ever need anything, like an in-room massage or bike rental, they can just shoot us a text or give us a call. Our guests are the reason why we do what we do!”
As Adam mentions, guests looking to get off property and explore Palm Springs have full access to bike rentals. Bike about 4 minutes west to arrive at the Tahquitz Canyon Visitor Center, where you can take an out-and-back hike (2 miles total) and be rewarded with beautiful views of a 60-foot waterfall. Or you can ride about 4 minutes south instead to visit the 1-acre, family-owned Moorten Botanical Garden. Chat with the second-generation owner, Mr. Clark Moorten, who lives onsite and shares his knowledge of cacti and desert plants from around the world.
Whether guests want a whole week with full kitchen access or just a relaxing weekend to get away, Bellevue Oasis offers the ideal Palm Springs stay. Experience the luxuries typically found at larger, chain hotels, but in a quiet, intimate setting.
Did you know that Palm Springs is internationally famous? Well, it is. Since 2006, people from all over the planet have been coming to Palm Springs during the month of February for the banging party we call Modernism Week. It’s like the United Nations all up in here.
Before the big event, Modernism Week holds a four-day preview in October called Modernism Fall Preview (a.k.a. Mini-Mod Week), running from October 14 through 17. It’s jam-packed with loads to do — over 50 events!
Modernism Week and Mini-Mod Week are so popular the best events sell out the same day they go on sale. So unless some fabulous bit of wizardry transpires (it might, Palm Springs is magical), forget about Sunnylands and Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms Estate Tour. There’s plenty left to see though, from significant mid-century modern home tours to architectural double decker bus tours.
You can dress as you like, but a lot of people choose to pull out their pedal pushers and fedoras — whatever it takes to achieve that retro look. During Mini-Mod Week, the town takes on that old-timey feel of the ’50s and ’60s.
There are some cool cocktail-style events, but those sell out pretty fast. One of my very favorite supper clubs, PS Underground, has a brand new show for this year called Beatnik. Hurry and book, their shows are always outstanding.
Even if you miss out on your favorite events, there’s still the main event at the Palm Springs Convention Center where you can browse everything mid-century modern, including art, furniture, and lighting. You can find a list of exhibitors here.
If you’re the curious type like me, or a little iffy on modernism, this article breaks down mid-century modern art for you. The same with architecture here.
Friday night is the big opening night party for the Modernism Show and Sale. Tickets are $75 in advance and $85 at the door. A purchase to the opening night party gives you access to the show on Saturday and Sunday.
Skipping the party? (You’re gonna say “no” to a party?!) You can still buy a ticket for Saturday and Sunday that will cost you one Jackson (soon to be Tubman!) and gets you in both days so you can shop ‘til you bop later on that evening.
Whether you do or don’t plan on going to the Modernism Week preview, but love the vibe of the mid-mod experience, we have mid-century modern hotels for the complete experience. There are 25 of them, all with great amenities — learn more about these fabulous spots here.
The Purple Room, a Rat Pack-inspired supper club, has some of the finest entertainment in town. Here are the weekend shows during Modernism Preview:
October 14: Sharon Sills (every Thursday)
October 15: Branden and James — vocals and cello performing the Lady Gaga songbook
October 16: Branden and James — vocals and cello performing the Lady Gaga songbook
October 17: The Judy Show (my favorite show in town! Every Sunday.)
Also, check out V Wine Lounge, where the vibe is so retro you’ll squee.
By the way, the bus tours are hella fun. I am a tour guide assistant and even from my view (I sit in the bottom of the bus, you’ll be on top — bring sunscreen and hold onto your hats!) it’s a fun and informative 2-and-a-half hour ride.
Hope to see you there, and let’s go retro!
Modernism Week does a great job curating special moments for you, but you can also create your own. Here are some spots that have the ring-a-ding to go full-metal Rat Pack. Some of them are on the Modernism Week website, and some of them are me making sure your trip is, as Frank Sinatra would say, 18 carat.
Eat like Sinatra in Palm Springs
Johnny Costas — Frequented by Sinatra, they opened in 1976 — a little late for the mid-mod era, but it’s gangster. High class gangster that is. White shirts and black ties for the waitstaff, dimly lit, it’s 100% old school Italian. And it is good. Sit inside in the main restaurant for the full effect. You will leave happy and satisfied.
Wang’s in the Desert — Formerly Jilly’s, the club was owned and operated by Sinatra’s right-hand man, Jilly Rizzo. From Palm Springs Life: “Rizzo, a restaurateur and entertainer from New York City, owned Jilly’s Saloon in NYC, a celebrity hangout in the 1960s. Rizzo was a frequent guest on Rowan and Martin’s Laugh In and had bit parts in the Manchurian Candidate, Tony Rome, The Detective, and the television show Kojak.”
Even after Jilly’s became Wang’s, it maintained a good reputation for having decent food and solid entertainment. The pandemic took it out, and in 2023 the Desert Sun announced that it would be closing for good. Surprise! It’s back, and still offering pan-Asian food. (Also right next to it is Bit of Country, my favorite “no frills, just good food” breakfast.)
Melvyn’s — Inside the historic Ingleside Estate (rebranded from Ingleside Inn), Melvyn’s bar is always swinging. This is old Palm Springs at its finest. Martinis are de rigueur, and they have a house pianist/entertainer. Sunday afternoons feature jazz jams. The dining room still serves Sinatra’s favorite dish, Steak Diane.
Bar Cecil — A mid-mod Hollywood crossover, many consider this the hippest spot in the Valley. Pronounced “Sess-ill,” there have been abundant celebrity sightings and it made the Michelin Guide in 2022.
Food and fun
The Purple Room — The Judy Show is a must see in this Rat Pack supper club. Classically, the show has been on Sunday evenings, as it is the hottest ticket in town. I promise you’ll have a blast but you gotta book it now.
Entertainment
V Wine and Martini Lounge — Wonderful spot in an architecturally significant building designed by Hugh Kaptur. Right next to Koffi on Tahquitz, the fact that I am putting this under just entertainment is misleading. They do have food, and it is delicious, but it’s not exactly a meal meal, more like tapas. Also, the Opal Lounge features some of Palm Springs’ finest entertainers. Minimum cover, delicious cock and mock tails, tasty snacks, and great entertainment in a spot where it looks like Doris Day bumped into Rock Hudson during a 1960s rom-com.
Revolution Stage Company — Not sure if they have a Modernism Week event yet, as they’ve only been around for a year, but man do they have a wide variety of entertainment. Not just relegated to musicals, dramas, and new works, the Revolution brings in cabaret acts from all over the country, and gave us a couple of knockout shows last season. Make sure to check out their website.
If you’re looking to sample some of Palm Springs local eateries, book Desert Tasty Tours and tell them I sent you. It’s a three-hour walking and eating tour covering four blocks of downtown Palm Springs. You get a little history (downtown is lousy with it), visit Marilyn, drink a couple of cocktails, and leave with a very full belly.
About eight years ago, the owners of the Camelot Theatre (built in the 1960s and the first cineplex in Palm Springs, still with the biggest screen and the best technical abilities in the Coachella Valley) donated the building to the Palm Springs Cultural Center, who turned it into a terrific entertainment complex while still retaining the original blueprint. They’re the premiere spot for film festivals, and it’s where the International Film Fest was born. So, check out the schedule; they’ll have some Modernism Week programming. They are also the home to two theatre companies, and five days a week have live entertainment for happy hour upstairs from 5 to 7 p.m. (look for The Mod Squad — so much fun!).
And that’s what’s cracking. Make sure to make reservations and your trip will go from 18-carat to platinum, pussycat.
Twice a year, Palm Springs celebrates its architectural roots. We don’t go all the way back to colonial times because we don’t have them; back then California was part of Mexico. Europeans began “settling” here in the mid-1800s with the exception of the Spaniards, who’d been stomping all over California and beyond since the days of Montezuma (1500s). And before that? Native Americans lived here for thousands of years.
Back in the mid-1800s, the U.S. government gave land to the Southern Pacific Railroad, which used it to entice people out west with a promise of land — for a price. That money would help them bring the railroad out west. East Coast Europeans started showing up in the mid-1800s, and by 1890 they had a hotel, The Palm Springs Hotel.
It took about 25 years for Palm Springs to become known for its health benefits, including the healing dry air and the hot springs (agua caliente). This was thanks to the arrival of Nellie Coffman in 1909, who made her Desert Inn the place to visit in Palm Springs.
And then came the celebrities. Just a two-hour drive (back then) from the studios in Los Angeles, it was exactly the contractually allowed time and distance actors were allowed from their respective studios. An added bonus? Paparazzi were not paid for trips over 100 miles. And bingo, the sexcapades were in full swing.
Every single decade from then on has stories about celebrities here in Palm Springs. Many of them were buying vacation homes, and architects were starting to sit up and take notice of the desertscapes and what they could accomplish here.
And now we’re at Modernism Week, the celebration of all of those guys who came here and turned Palm Springs into a mid-century modern architectural paradise (along with our other paradise qualities!).
So, here’s what you can expect Oct. 19-22: 50 events! What?? You can make just as hearty of a meal out of all things Modernism in October as you can at the February bonanza. Let’s have a look-see!
It’s my party!
Cocktail parties: There’s two. Sinatra always sells out, I think before it even hits the internet. Okay, that’s not true, but you know what I mean. The second one looks to be fun as well, so book it, Danno!
Preview party: This is the first soiree and the biggest.
Lizzie and the Triggermen: Called “one of the hottest swing bands in L.A.” by Good Day L.A., Lizzy & The Triggermen has been making waves since bursting onto the SoCal scene.
Mixology cocktail clinics: Held at Mr. Lyon’s, one of Palm Springs most iconic fine dining restaurants. Oct. 19, 20, 21, 22, with two time slots at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.
Mid-Century Moderns is not on the schedule of official MW activities, but absolutely worth the price of the ticket. It’s a very fun jukebox musical, not for the faint of heart. Begins Oct. 6 on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, with multiple showtimes including a 2 p.m. matinee for after brunch.
Cruising through town
Bus tours — There are a ton of them, and this year they’ve divided them all up by neighborhood. All are a good time, and there is even a twilight tour where certain buildings are beautifully lit to show off their architecture. It’s pretty cool. I am a guide on one of those this fall.
A Modernism Week bus tour. Photo courtesy of Visit Palm Springs
Here are the (other, heh heh) celebrity tour guides:
Charles Phoenix: Mid-century pop culture expert Charles Phoenix is a performer, author, explorer, and collector celebrating classic and kitschy American life and style, who has appeared on Jay Leno’s Garage and Conan and been a judge on Cake Wars Christmas and Nailed It.
He’s known for the Big Retro Trailer Slide Show. Lavishing commentary on the very best images from his massive collection of vintage “flea market found” Kodachrome slides, he shares a wide variety of spectacular scenes, décor, classic cars, festive fashions, potlucks, parties, parades, and picturesque locations.
Bella da Ball: Bella is our ambassador drag queen; she stands 6’4” tall without heels. Heavily involved in Pride, and many other activities, Bella also hosts Drag Queen Bingo & Trivia at the Ace Hotel on Monday nights. She recently resumed her Drag Queen Storytime at Palm Springs Library, and we couldn’t be happier to have her back.
Here are a few places I’ve always wanted to see:
Frey House II — Albert Frey had a unique understanding of function, form, practicality, and love for the desert landscape, all combined to provide us this extraordinary legacy. It includes a free day at the Art Museum, and a ride on a bus up to the property. If you go, tell me about it please!
Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palm Estates — Frank owned a lot of houses here in the desert, but this is the one that used to have his own plane out back, and where he used to hoist a flag to let friends and neighbors know it was cocktail hour. It’s also where he lived and fought with Ava Gardner.
Some of these tickets require deep pockets, but there are also free events you can attend and still feel all mid-mod-y.
Free events
Friday, Oct. 20
9 a.m. “Lost, Saved & Endangered: Modernist Architecture in Palm Springs”: Palm Springs Preservation Foundation board president Gary Johns will present his popular slide lecture, “Lost, Saved & Endangered: Modernist Architecture in Palm Springs.” At Palm Springs Cultural Center, 2300 E Baristo Rd., Palm Springs.
11 a.m. The Design of Herbert W. Burns: Palm Springs Preservation Foundation board vice president Steven Keylon will present an entertaining overview of architectural designer Herbert W. Burns’ life and career. At the Palm Springs Cultural Center.
A quick note on the Cultural Center. With everything it offers, it’s gearing up to be a major presence in Palm Springs. It was also built in 1967 as the first cineplex in Palm Springs.
The Three Fifty Hotel was designed by Herbert W. Burns. Photo courtesy of The Three Fifty Hotel
Saturday, Oct. 21
9 a.m. Hot Purple Energy Architectural Bike Ride: Join us as we pedal our way through architecturally significant neighborhoods in South Palm Springs and highlight mid-century homes. Indian Canyons Golf Resort Clubhouse parking lot, 1100 E. Murray Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.
This is a terrific area to explore. The two golf courses are gorgeous, and Lykken Trail is on South Palm Canyon and Murray Drive. The Walt Disney Fountain is here as are some mid-century homes that you can see on one of the bus tours (there used to be an app for $5 with all of the architecturally significant spots in P.S. on them, so do a Google). Make sure to grab breakfast or lunch at the Indian Canyon Clubhouses, and then drive through the Indian Canyons neighborhood.
If you’re a hiker, Lykken Trail dumps onto South Palm Canyon just past Murray Canyon, and if you keep going down South Palm Canyon, you’ll hit one of the greatest hiking spots in Palm Springs: the actual Indian Canyons Reserve.
2 p.m. The Alexanders book signing with author James Harlan: James Harlan will also give a talk about the famous Palm Springs developers. Palm Springs Historical Society, The McCallum Adobe, 221 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.
The Palm Springs Historical Society is located in the Village Green next to Cornelia White’s home, which was relocated from where it was first built, at The Palm Springs Hotel. It’s also across the street from Lulu, the best people watching spot in town.
4 to 9 p.m. Shag’s October Modernism Print Release Party: Join artist Shag and guest Nancy Sinatra for a book signing and print release party at The Shag Store, featuring complimentary cocktails, live music, and other fun surprises. The Shag Store, 745 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.
The Shag Store — I’ve never gone in because I’d feel like an imposter; I can’t afford a Shag piece, but it’s a party and everyone’s invited!!
Sunday, Oct. 22
8 a.m. to Noon. Modernism Yard Sale: Brought to you by Chris Bale Homes and hosted by H3K Home+Design, this annual sale has become one of Modernism Week’s most popular FREE events! H3K is high-end, but on the more affordable end. H3K Design+Home parking lot, 501 S. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs.
Here’s a link to all the rest. Use the sorting function and “category” to help you get just where your little heart desires. And you’re gonna need a place to stay, right? Here’s a list of the nearly 80 boutique hotels in Palm Springs; if you’re looking for something mid-century modern, or even more old-timey, you can use that sorting button to find your perfect stay.
I’ll be waving at you from the top of my bus!
The Orbit In is a perfect example of mid-century modern architecture and design. Photo courtesy of Orbit In
