Don’t bother looking for the gay district in the desert resort town of Palm Springs. That’s because LGTBQ culture is the back bone of all of Palm Springs life. From night clubs to restaurants, boutique hotels to well, boutiques, Palm Springs may be the queerest, gay-fueled resort town on the planet.
The name says it all.
At INNdulge, guests take full advantage of being on vacation, relaxing in the saltwater pool and 12-man jacuzzi and reveling in the property’s gardens. This clothing optional gay men’s resort in the Warm Sands neighborhood is a mid-century modern hotel built in 1958, with 24 rooms. Jon Jackson has owned INNdulge for 10 years, becoming a hotelier after retiring as an attorney.
“My hospitality experience is in restaurants, but those skills easily converted,” he said.
An expanded continental breakfast is served in the morning, and an evening social hour and weekend pool parties bring guests together. Visitors often tell Jon they enjoy “the social aspect of staying with other like-minded gay men,” and in turn, he’s thrilled to provide “a great product and service.”
INNdulge, he added, “is a property that caters to gay men, who appreciate the pride of ownership we take in maintaining our property, and who in turn treat it with the type of respect deserving of a home away from home.”
Early evening, and the still-blistering heat of Palm Springs, California conspires with the cooling blue of an outdoor swimming pool. I consider downing my Martini, ripping off my dinner wear and diving in.
An older gay gentleman with the right idea comes walking towards me, palm outstretched, smiling widely.
The Triangle Inn Palm Springs offers guests a private walled enclave where they can relax and be themselves. We are not for people who want an anonymous vacation. When people stay with us, we get to know them, and they, in turn, get to know us, and the other guests.
“We’re not interested in being the most expensive resort in Palm Springs, but we are interested in being the nicest.” — INNdulge owner Jon Jackson
Warm Sands is a beautiful Palm Springs neighborhood with sprawling estates, their edges lined with walls of perfectly-manicured, oversized hedges requesting you respect their privacy. You often don’t know what’s behind them — is it one of the many private homes, or is it one of the many men’s clothing-optional resorts? There’s a lot of bush going on there, it’s hard to tell.
On that alone, INNdulge stands out.
From the classy stone marquee on the tip of the property and generous parking spaces, to the rainbow flag waving above the mid-century modern structure of steel and tinted glass that screams “I’m a hotel lobby,” the INNdulge resort is out and proud on the street.
But that’s only a perk if you are directionally impaired. What really makes INNdulge stand out is what’s through the door.
It’s entirely unexpected: A lobby that is the definition of minimalist, with a teak desk that’s functional art on marble tile flooring. Where there aren’t floor to ceiling windows, there is art. Gorgeous art.
The INNdulge lobby. Photo courtesy of INNdulge
Off the lobby is a retro bistro table next to an open wall of glass that lets the outside in, and that outside is so mid-century perfect that your mind’s eye can see Rock Hudson and Tab Hunter soaking up the rays on the lip of the pool, or maybe Cary Grant and Randolph Scott cheekily cavorting in the water.
It all has a sophisticated playfulness to it, something you’ll find sprinkled throughout the rest of the property. It’s one of the benefits of having an owner who has an intense passion for visual mediums.
Speaking of playfulness, it’s hard to miss the two large statues flanking the pool, both with very large Flintstone-esque feet.
This statue keeps watch over INNdulge. Photo courtesy of INNdulge
“It’s by an artist named Mavis McClure,” INNdulge owner Jon Jackson tells me, clearly as fascinated with the artist as he is the art. “We met her when she was a professor at Berkeley. She does both male and female figures with oversized hands and feet. She did these at Berkeley; the models were two cousins from Italy that were exchange students.”
Most of the art is by gay artists, but Jackson doesn’t discriminate. If he loves it, he buys it.
Unexpected art is scattered across the entire property, and every suite is not only clad in the mid-century modern aesthetic, but each has their own original paintings.
A room at INNdulge. Photo courtesy of INNdulge
Another thing that sets INNdulge apart from other men’s resorts is that with 31 rooms, it lands in the mid-sized category. At this particular resort, more people equals more fun, which is one of the reasons INNdulge has an 80 percent guest return rate.
“Everything is designed around the pool in such a way to encourage people to meet, and every evening we have a social hour,” Jackson explains. “It’s BYOB because of the California liquor licenses. But we do it to encourage people to foster conversation and friendships. That’s why people come back.”
Most of the suites are poolside, with only about 10 of them away from the pool, and those have quieter patios in case you’re looking to have a cup of coffee away from the bustle.
Poolside views. Photo courtesy of INNdulge
Speaking of coffee, INNdulge lays out a couple of fabulous spreads for breakfast. Yogurt, berries, croissants, ham and cheese, and of course juice, coffee, and tea.
There’s a lot to do in Palm Springs, and Jackson has found that first-time visitors often book themselves with activities every minute of every day, from modernism tours to tennis lessons.
“When they come back the second time, it’s just to hang out by the pool,” Jackson says. “Of course, they go out to dinner, but they sort of get in this vibe. I don’t claim that, it’s not INNdulge’s vibe, it’s the Palm Springs vibe. And we try to recreate that here.”
And nothing says Palm Springs like a soak in a 12-man whirlpool spa that is open 24/7, so if you can’t sleep and think some friendly bubbles might soothe you, just hop on in. The water’s the perfect temperature, and the desertscape at night is breathtaking.
“We do a major remodel of something every single year primarily for our repeat clients,” Jackson says. “We do that because they come to expect what they know — this is the best value in the desert.”
The INNdulge grounds. Photo courtesy of INNdulge
If you’re heading to Palm Springs for Pride Week, forget the big hotels and experience what community is all about. Palm Springs has dozens of charming, independently-owned boutique hotels that are just as unique as you.
And that’s important because Palm Spring Pride is like no other. Here, community is defined very broadly and allies are enthusiastically celebrated.
Proof in point: this year’s Pride Week theme, inspired by (and in support of) “youth-led movement-building efforts that are awakening critical conversations for social change,” is Youth Power for Change. In a profoundly symbolic gesture, the youth of Coachella Valley were collectively named Grand Marshalls of the 2018 Pride Parade.
The Palm Springs is unusual because it does not contain gay ghettos like most cities. Decades ago, when Palm Springs was drifting into oblivion like so many small desert towns, it was the gay community who infused it with new life, starting hotels and other businesses that set the course for the Palm Springs of today.
And to this day, many Palm Springs Preferred Small Hotels are owned or managed by members and allies of the LGBTQ community.
Case in point: For women who remember the Bee Charmer Inn, it is now called La Maison and under the gay-friendly new ownership of allies Cornelia and Robert. Voted one of the most romantic inns in the country by Trip Advisor over the past few years, La Maison provides a safe and welcoming haven for solo travelers and couples. Exceptionally serene and lush, La Maison prides itself on small touches of perfection that make guests feel cherished.
The woman-owned, Alcazar Palm Springs, is managed by the talented Robert Hunt. This stunningly beautiful contemporary hotel is conveniently located near some of the best restaurants and shopping in town. Known for its diversity and inclusiveness, The Alcazar enjoys bragging rights for its salt water purified pool and garden courtyard with fire and water walls. It’s even pet friendly.
If clothing-optional man space is your thing, there is no better place to celebrate Pride than at one of the men’s resorts on San Lorenzo Road. In one short block, you’ll find at least four of the best (and most beautiful) resorts owned and operated by and for men, including: The Triangle Inn Palm Springs, Santiago Resort, Tortuga del Sol, and Escape Resort.
Twin Palms Resort is Palm Springs’ newest kid on the block.
An upscale boutique hotel, Twin Palms is a brother property to the Santiago and Descanso. This trio of remarkable resorts offer gay men a gorgeous selection of naturally chic, swimsuit-optional retreats right in the heart of Palm Springs, and having now experienced all three properties myself, I can happily say “the third time’s a charm” with Twin Palms Resort.
Welcome to Twin Palms Resort. Photo by Gregory Douglass
Santiago was my first experience at a men’s resort in Palm Springs, back in 2018. As a 40-year-old gay man living in Los Angeles at the time, I’d never felt such freedom and restoration from a long weekend away from my big-city life. It was a game-changing experience for me.
I was curious how the other men-only resorts here in the Coachella Valley compared to the distinguishable Santiago experience. “How different can they all be?” I wondered. Having now experienced the majority of gay hotels here, it’s a privilege to be writing about what a spectrum of enticing options we have — each with its own flavor, vibe, and healing benefits.
The modern clubhouse. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort
Twin Palms Resort is no different from its brother properties when it comes to top-notch luxury and leisure. The “casually extravagant” experience is what many have come to expect from a Resorts Palm Springs property, and yet Twin Palms already has a distinct personality of its own. Santiago has a modern Spanish aesthetic, while Descanso boasts a “California garden patio” motif. Twin Palms is the first to celebrate a true mid-century modern concept inside and out.
Nested in Palm Springs’ first modernist neighborhood, Twin Palms Estates, the resort looks as timeless as it does fresh in style, with its pops of yellows, blues, and greens. These colors accent that classic, clean white modernism style that makes Palm Springs architecture so iconic. It might even rival the hotel’s historic start — opened in 1959 as the Brentwood Apartments, the property was originally developed to blend in with the neighborhood’s 90 modernist tract homes, designed by one of the founding fathers of Palm Springs modernism, William Krisel.
Hotel guests can use these bikes to tool around town. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort
What really makes Twin Palms Resort unique is its communal layout. The perfectly heated saltwater swimming pool acts as a centerpiece to its 20 single-story guest rooms, yellow umbrellas, and chaise lounges that all wrap around the pool like a rainbow. The 12-man spa is just as welcoming as the luxurious patio space, which faces a breathtaking view of the San Jacinto Mountains.
You have to love those mountain views. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort
Like Santiago and Descanso, the Twin Palms experience also includes a hip clubhouse guest lounge, a communal fire pit, an outdoor mist cooling system, a 24-hour canteen with complimentary beverages, a daily complimentary continental breakfast, and complimentary poolside lunch.
You can expect the same level of guest service as well from Twin Palms’ friendly staff, and in-room welcome amenities too. Some highlights include beautiful modern gay artwork, a resort texting hotline for direct communication with the staff, lamps with charging stations, luxurious heavy-weight bathrobes, some fun “adult goodies” in the drawer of each bedside table, and even a personalized welcome note upon your arrival.
A plush king room at Twin Palms. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort
In addition to an outdoor shower and pool bathroom communal showers, every room features grand marble bathrooms with spacious walk-in glass showers, sporting both rain and handheld shower heads – lending even more community appeal to the place.
The outdoor shower is one perk of staying at Twin Palms. Photo by Gregory Douglass
Twin Palms Resort is also as earth-friendly as it is gay-friendly, offering off-street guest parking with four electric vehicle chargers, sustainable bath products from Public Goods, and even bicycles you can borrow to explore the neighborhood.
It’s easy enough to retreat from the community as well. Every room features remote lighting and window shades, as well as private rear patios. Even the mini-fridge is tucked away in the bathroom vanity, which I thought was a clever decision.
The author enjoying his room at the Twin Palms. Photo by Gregory Douglass
What makes the communal aspect of Twin Palms Resort so special is its potential for new friends and new connections to be made. In an environment somehow as nonchalant as it is enveloping, it was seamless to connect with fellow guests and then naturally go our separate ways.
I’ve learned that every resort has a “scene” of its own. Time will tell what the Twin Palms scene is — but the stage is set for all sorts of possibilities. I suspect it will help spark a long line of lasting friendships that will all begin at the charming little gay hotel in Twin Palms Estates.
Unwind in the resort’s pool and spa. Photo courtesy of Twin Palms Resort
The Triangle Inn is like a charming man with a cheeky wit and a very sexy smile. Who wouldn’t want a second date?
Let’s start with a few fun facts, rated Hollywood-style.
The Triangle Inn spans the corners of San Lorenzo (très exotique, non?) and Random Road, a flirty wink from the street naming committee.
Rating: R for randy randomness
When it was built, the hotel was called The Impala Lodge. The year was 1958, and the architect was notable mid-century modernist Hugh Kaptur.
Kaptur apprenticed for mid-mod darlings Harrison and Wexler, and Wexler apprenticed under the man they called the Desert Maverick, William Cody. In a 1958 Desert Sun article, Kaptur described the architectural design of the Lodge as the highly non-PC “Indian Modern.”
Rating: Winner, best documentary
Then, like the rest of us, the lodge went through some changes. From lodge to apartment building and into disrepair, the modernist gem was badly in need of an image overhaul.
Rating: Elizabeth Berkley
In the late 1980s/early 1990s, Matthew Robinson and Kevin Rice purchased the property, restored the original architecture, remodeled the rooms, and when the flag finally flew it was a rainbow flag, waving high above the newly named Triangle Inn, an eight-suite, men’s clothing optional resort.
Rating: Kal Penn
The Triangle Inn’s entrance. Photo courtesy of The Triangle Inn
In 2000, Robinson and Rice were looking for someone to love the inn as much as they did, and ran into some wicked good luck. Two frequent Palm Springers from Atlanta (let’s call them Michael and Stephen because those are their names) decided they wanted to live in paradise and purchased the classy little mid-century revival gem.
Its massive glass-paned walls let the sunshine in and provide an endless view of our gorgeous mountains. Angular steel beams and the slanted roof are punctuated by lush tropical foliage; there are fruit trees all over the property — mango, lemon, blood orange — making it feel as remote and as exotic as Gilligan’s Island without Ginger, Marianne, or the Howells (they’re so pretentious), but with way better amenities.
But it’s not remote; it’s intimate. The hotel is actually only five minutes from downtown Palm Springs. That’s five by car, 15 if you’re biking. Drinking and biking renders various results, but generally longer durations and is not recommended.
Rating: A Star is Born
The living room in one of The Triangle Inn’s suites. Photo courtesy of The Triangle Inn
Consistently garnering five-star ratings and rave reviews, it shouldn’t surprise you that The Triangle Inn has a very long history of repeat guests. There are many reasons for this — the lovely suites, the fine amenities — but also because there is zero judgment. They’re very light on the rules, and then there’s that southern hospitality: warm as the sun and cool as the night air.
Breakfast offers an assortment of breads, fruit, yogurt, and cereals, as well as coffee and tea — all gratis — on the covered patio by the pool. If you’d like a White Claw (again, no judgments, you’re on vacation) they’re $3 and you can drink them poolside. It’s all very chill.
The suites echo the style of the exterior, all in the mid-mod aesthetic, dressed in earthy tans and browns; light, sky blues; and rich sunset oranges. Even the Tarocco bath amenities are in burnt orange.
The bathroom in one of The Triangle Inn’s suites. Photo courtesy of The Triangle Inn
The bed linens are crisp 500-count cotton, and all the accommodations have either a kitchen/dining room or a kitchenette depending on room size. Instead of a dishwasher in each of the suites, the houseman takes care of the dishes when he tidies your room.
Of all the places you can choose to stay in Palm Springs, The Triangle Inn is, perhaps, the most social. The intimate setting provides an opportunity for guests to become lifelong friends, not just with Michael and Stephen, but with each other, flying in from all over the world to meet up for a repeat performance.
Yet, because the rooms are all down the corridor, away from the outdoor activities, festivities, and laughter, guests can work from their suites before they go out to play. Some book for a month at a time, several times a year. It’s their home away from home. And because Michael and Stephen live on property, guests experience family-style hospitality that’s all rom-com and zero drama.
Rating: All the stars
P.S. The Triangle Inn welcomes friendly canines. Inquire within.
The pool at night. Photo courtesy of The Triangle Inn
